tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-14222952024-03-18T23:05:43.154-04:00PunchBuggyRupert Lloyd Thomas...
travel, transport, energy & comment<br>
© Copyright 2000-2019Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger998125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-49106492846998955272018-11-01T12:14:00.001-04:002018-11-18T19:57:03.008-05:00Uphill Battle TourFor their autumn tour Jack and Richard chose two Moulton bicycles to ride from near Oswestry, Shropshire to Lewes in Sussex. Rupert to join in for the second half on a Brompton.<br>
Jack arrived at Gobowen by train, with Moulton. Collected from there. Abi curry in evening. Next day walk along the canal to breakfast at Village Pantry, Llanymynech. Explored Heritage Area, and estate. Couple of pints in Cross Guns that night, very quiet. Set off next morning about nine.<br>
Jack's Moulton (fourth Bike-to-Work purchase!) is a 2013 TSR27, with SRAM Dual-Drive, ie 9 speeds on a cassette, with 3 hub gears. Much modified: telescopic Brompton seatpost for extra height; raised handlebar stem, straight bars replaced by drops. Replacement brakes to accommodate the new levers. Richard’s is an APB R18, ie 9 speed cassette, 2 chainwheels. The R18s were the final and best specced evolution of the APB model. Preceded the introduction of the TSR range.<br>
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<b>Day 1 - 5 Sept 2018</b><br>
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Very big first day. No accurate mileage to hand but we believe circa 85 miles, breaking the all-time tour record. Extraordinarily hilly route selected by the satnav to Wenlock Edge. Much needed drinks in Bridgnorth. No route along the steam railway. Shoulder after shoulder of hills, quite dispiriting. Just like the hilly sections of the Vélo Birmingham were, and we are staying overnight in one of those parts, Bewdley, at the Mercure. Declaration of insanity to the hotel staff scored us a free pint. Jack had a very slow speed off, pulling away, in Shrewsbury, possibly the result of a pannier jamming the steering. Minor cuts but nasty bruise to thigh, exacerbated by Jack's insistence on wearing rubber pants. We ate in at the Bewdley Mercure and the Gloucester Sawmills End Ibis. Good fare at both, not over-priced. Both too exhausted to venture elsewhere!
Mercure Bewdley, Heath Hotel, Habberley Road, Bewdley, DY12 1LA. 1 twin room: £98.11.<br>
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<b>Day 2 - 6 Sept 2018</b><br>
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Bewdley to Gloucester, via Stourport, Ombersley, Worcester and Tewkesbury, perhaps about 60 miles. Stops at Ombersley (posh cafe) and Worcester (Severn Cafe). A number of hills, but with a purpose, taking one up onto ridges, not like yesterday's endless roller-coaster. Some light rain. Drivers well behaved. Gorgeous views of the Malverns. Unfortunate rear puncture on my APB just five or six miles short of Gloucester, but sorted in half an hour. Good digs at the Ibis. Ibis Gloucester, Sawmills End, Corinium Avenue, Gloucester, GL4 3DG. 2 rooms: £88.<br>
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<b>Day 3 - 7 Sept 2018</b><br>
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Gloucester to Bath, in all likelihood about 70 miles. The toughest day's cycling, in terms of hills, I've ever experienced. As we exited Gloucester we went into the centre to Eastgate Cycles in order to replace the accident-causing pannier, with one which clipped more securely to the frame. £20. Friendly service from proprietor who told us how tough trading conditions were for a traditionally-run cycle shop.
Lovely first section along the canal. In an effort to get away from the A38 we ended up climbing Frocester Hill, up the side of the Cotswolds Hills. At 10%+ this was a long slog of a walk. Lovely roads over the top though, including along the Fosse Way, quiet fast miles. Beautiful around arboretum.<br>
Bath expected to be hilly, but not as much as it turned out. Utterly exhausted, up hill and down dale to get to the university. Devonshire and Combe Down railway tunnels, now part of a cycling route, fantastic pieces of engineering - the latter is over a mile long - but do not appear to provide access to the university, much as the geography suggests they should. Had to double back, down hill then back up. Long push up final Medlock Hill to the University. Jack exhausted. (A subsequent examination of Google Maps suggested that there may well have been a much gentler level route to the university from the end of the second tunnel - confirming Richard’s speculation at the time based on place names. Pity the locals we asked did not know about it!)<br>
Believe we have done c.220 miles over the last three days. Day off tomorrow, with just a journey to Bradford-on-Avon and back. Rupert joins the tour tomorrow afternoon.<br>
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<b>Day off - 8 Sept 2018</b><br>
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I am riding a Brompton six-speed titanium ‘M’ model from 2008. (Jack's first Bike-to-Work bike, kindly on loan from Andy Thomas.) I take the train Lewes-Brighton. Then 09:00 direct service to Bradford-on-Avon, via Southampton, arriving midday. Lunch at Ravello, 1-2 St Margaret's St, Bradford-on-Avon.<br>
To Moulton Bicycle Club Rally at the factory, with the Moulton fundies. We manage to negotiate a reduction for me on entry at £5. Pump up the tyres on the Brompton, badly needed.
Cycle to Bath University, Claverton Down, via Kennett & Avon canal towpath, pushing the bike up Claverton Hill at the end. Overnight in cheap and cheerful digs, grub and beers in Uni bar. Reminded me of the old days in Durham. University of Bath, Eastwood, Norwood Avenue, Claverton Down, Bath, BA2 7PD. £38 approx per bed night. Good value.<br>
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<b>Day 4 - 9 Sept 2018</b><br>
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For me the 'deep end' as I join the tour. We retrace our steps to Bradford-on-Avon via the canal towpath. Stop at Tourist Information for directions. Instead of continuing south-east to Trowbridge, we cut south-west to Farleigh Hungerford, where we see a motocross event and the ancient castle. A bunch of passing cyclists are headed to Longleat. We carry on to the Cross Keys pub at Rode, Somerset, where Pauline and Mark provide a free cup of tea. It is just amazing how fair people can be. "Come back and stay!" they say. A classic Bentley convertible pulls up to ask for directions.<br>
I lose the boys on the A36 and turn off to Dilton Marsh, hoping they will catch up. I reach Westbury and cut south to Warminster on the unpleasant A350. I divert via Upton Scudamore in search of quieter roads. On the approach to Warminster a service area is disappointingly closed for repairs, so I head into town in search of money and grub. After cashing up at Barclays I stop at Coffee #1, 30 Market Place, Warminster for a snack - a cheese croissant is put in the microwave in error and turns out a sticky mess. I'm too hungry to care. The boys aren't far away as I head out of town looking for a turning to Sutton Veny. Beyond I stop at The Courtyard Café, The Ginger Piggery, Boyton - recommended. Despite phone contact the boys have got ahead and we meet up much further down the track at the The Royal Oak, Langford Rd, Great Wishford, where we sit in the garden opposite, dosing on ice creams, tea and cola. We carry on to Wilton.<br>
Our route takes us into the centre of Salisbury where we stop briefly at the Cathedral. Many jokes about Russian visitors and Edward Heath.<br>
I get tailed off on a long climb in the countryside and feel thoroughly discouraged (following National Cycle Route 24, drifting too far east.)<br>
I reach Romsey in error where I stop to ask a man on a Brompton the way to Ower. He directs me on to the only route up a busy dual-carriageway. At the top of the hill he stops in his Honda in a layby to rescue me. I fold the bike for the short car ride to the Mortimer Arms, Romsey Road, Ower, SO51 6AF. An act of kindness by a Knight of the Road. 70 plus miles - too far for a first day. Booked table for excellent huge meal. 3 rooms reserved: £178.50.<br>
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<b>Day 5 - 10 Sept 2018</b><br>
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Via Totton to Southampton, where a large cruise ship is docked. We cross the Itchen on the busy road bridge - I cycle all the way as I'm too frightened to stop. Shortly we are in aircraft country with many historic associations, monuments etc. Pitstop outdoors at Jenny's Cafe, High St, Hamble-le-Rice (in a cobbled street opposite The Victory pub).<br>
First of three ferries from Hamble to Warsash in a pink tub. We head for the coast, past an airfield and hovercraft museum, to Lee-on-Solent. Pitstop at seafront Leon's Bistro, 15 Marine Parade W, Lee-on-the-Solent - pretty average, unfriendly staff.<br>
Ferry from Gosport, across Portsmouth Harbour, to Portsmouth. We see Brompton Dock for renting Brompton bicyles. Then eastbound for Hayling Island ferry.<br>
Shouts of "Man in the water" and "Man overboard." We are in the middle of a real life emergency. He hasn't fallen from our boat but he is in the water alright, in a vicious rushing tide. I make myself useful by signalling to him that we have seen him (not virtue signalling). I hold the rope while a crew member lowers a ladder and we haul the bloodied man from the water and rescue his upturned rowboat. We have to return to dock on the Portsmouth side to await an ambulance. A Mayday call to the coastguard has to be resolved. Eventually we reach Hayling Island and all is well.<br>
We take the coastal Hayling Billy bike path to Havant, route of an old railway line. I marvel at the toughness of modern Schwalbe bike tyres for they are being truly punished here. (Havant was the jumping off point for the Broken Spoke Tour in 2016.) Welcome pitstop at Caffè Nero, 8 West St, Havant PO9 1PF.<br>
Hard charging on A259 to Chichester. To the George & Dragon, 51 North St, Chichester, PO19 1NQ. £195 for three rooms, incl breakfast. Good value. Choice of real ales. Very welcoming chap at the bar.<br>
Walk to Prezzo, 61 South St, Chichester. At Prezzo Jack works his magic whereby a special offer obtained by phone from the internet significantly reduced the bill.<br>
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<b>Day 6 - 11 Sept 2018</b><br>
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A coastal run from Chichester to Lewes, via Brighton, pushed along by a strong westerly tailwind. A little rain.<br>
We depart town via the Chichester Canal southbound for Bognor. Macaris Cafe, 46A London Rd, Bognor Regis, for coffee stop in a pedestrian area of town (indoors much like an old folks home). Then following the seafront where possible.<br>
We get separated in an interminable housing estate, as I miss a difficult-to-see roadsign. Then I'm stuck on the A259 towards Littlehampton. Watching the destination boards on the buses for clues as to which way to go. I cross the Arun by the footbridge adjacent to Littlehampton Marina, via Ferry Road. Working my way eastward forced back to the A259. Cut south to Goring-by-Sea. Irritated by signs saying "to the station" - what damn station? Held up at level crossings. At last a sign for Worthing and I'm charging along the seafront to the pier when Richard emerges from a cafe on my left. We meet up at View Café & Bar, 70 Marine Parade, Worthing. Suitable.<br>
We crossed the River Adur via the Adur Ferry Bridge, just after passing The Waterside pub. Jack is now in familiar territory and we enjoy the industrial vibe of Shoreham Port, crossing back over the river at the lock gates and proceeding along Basin Road South. Through Hove to Brighton where I get my first look at the British Airways i360, a tall observation tower. We reach Lewes by mid-afternoon. The stretch from Southampton to Brighton could occupy a pleasant week with time for attractions, museums etc.<br>
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<b>Lessons/Reflections</b><br>
<br>
1. To save weight, apart from a couple of local walking maps we did not take roadmaps for our route, especially the more difficult and exhausting first 3 days. We thought we could rely mainly on pre-planning and satnav. Mistake! When slightly lost, we ended up mystified as to the direction of travel in relation to signposted towns.<br>
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2. The National Cycle Network routes/signage are generally very useful but in some key places the signs completely disappeared (eg middle of Salisbury). There were also routes which were downright dangerous due to fast-moving heavy traffic.<br>
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3. The Moultons were excellent, and definitely more capable and comfortable than Bromptons, but the unaccustomed handlebar grips over such long distances caused Jack to have lasting numbness in palms and fingertips from which recovery has been slow.<br>
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4. The supremacy of Brompton luggage arrangements remains unchallenged.<br>
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5. Overall, a very hard ride!
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-63149039006795406552018-06-22T16:04:00.002-04:002018-07-13T00:17:32.989-04:00BC or Bust roadtrip<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRLlSy6qw1B84bhgeMCpqmnNphj4ljhGc9tQ5c0QYscx_eKze5PHZZV31Fhk2UgdIqWiwLANoZL89mx1LnSHDehYcmwz90mq0hJgk6HAZs7DBGJyMFNXv-NGZmiTEA4hC0_De/s1600/DSCN4321.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBRLlSy6qw1B84bhgeMCpqmnNphj4ljhGc9tQ5c0QYscx_eKze5PHZZV31Fhk2UgdIqWiwLANoZL89mx1LnSHDehYcmwz90mq0hJgk6HAZs7DBGJyMFNXv-NGZmiTEA4hC0_De/s320/DSCN4321.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT.</small><br>
A one-way trip to my new little house in the west. Mostly following the Trans-Canada Highway from Toronto to Sidney on Vancouver Island.<br>
(I could have gone via the USA, but a combination of rudeness and paranoia at the border is off-putting. Their financial loss.)<br>
My 2005 smart car, with trusty diesel motor, never missed a beat.<br>
<b>Thursday 7 June.</b><br>
Depart 05:30 with a full tank of gas. Bye bye Hogtown. Election Day in Ontario and reports on the radio of a deadly shooting in Scarborough, with a cop being saved by his kevlar vest. Take the 400 Hwy north initially but turn off via Kleinburg, Nobleton, Thornton on Hwy 27. Taking a last look at familiar places. Back on the 400 Highway at Barrie.<br>
Pitstop at Tim Horton's, 35 Lone Pine Road, Port Severn. using up Tim's gift card. Coffee $1.77. Past Parry Sound through the rocks towards Sudbury. The 4-lane highway runs out in Canadian Shield country.<br>
At Sudbury I divert into town for Esso Sudbury #253, 1813 Regent Street South: diesel $18.40 with discount card. Subway lunch at E4-2408 Long Lake Road, Sudbury. I leave keys in ignition.<br>
Out of town past the giant chimneys at the mines hereabouts.<br>
Listening to Steppenwolf - "Magic Carpet Ride"; Toby Keith - "I Love this Bar."<br>
Now westbound thru Massey, past Elliot Lake, Lake Lauzon, Blind River, with road works and hold-ups. Arrive 15:25 at Delta Hotel, 208 St Mary's Drive, Sault Ste. Marie. Views of namesake town in Michigan across the river.<br>
While watching election coverage in the hotel <i>View restaurant + bar</i> a woman is loudly dropping the 'F' bomb at regular intervals at the top of her voice. Attending a "heritage conference" is this what women fought for? (Bar tab $25.14, no alcohol.)<br>
I take a stroll by the river. A random woman asks "Are you graduating today?" Me: "Why would I be graduating?" "You could be getting a Masters in Psychology." Me: "That is very flattering!" End of conversation.<br>
A giant laker is in the St Mary's River: <i>MV Indiana Harbor</i>.<br>
429 miles.<br>
<b>Friday 8 June.</b><br>
Dep 05:30. Start with a wrong slot, straying west to Gros Cap, instead of north. Wasted most of an hour in the boondocks running short of gas. High anxiety. Happy to reach Trading Post Esso, The Trading Post, 1332 Great Northern Road, Sault Ste-Marie at 06:34.<br>
Through miles of gravel roadworks to breakfast off the road at Twilight Resort, Hwy 17 North, Montreal River Harbour. A self-described greasy spoon in a shack, we talk of the old days. This was a camp for conscientious objectors in WW2, mostly Mennonites, who were interned and put to building roads. There were also POW camps in the district, some prisoners stayed on after the war. Nowadays there is a mixture of holiday makers and contractors working on local building projects at this lakeside resort.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5VqGV1RR7_tZqp-_UP_d8a0jF7ONw2NrZPbM0pvDPJCY4AT9LZwxN2g0wdoY5RaAQCuN3StoqL2bz4j7Cl_eDYVj-F6fM7bQdkG0rR7Cku598EHZHHju002KjmHwWtWNXpnpa/s1600/DSCN4322.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5VqGV1RR7_tZqp-_UP_d8a0jF7ONw2NrZPbM0pvDPJCY4AT9LZwxN2g0wdoY5RaAQCuN3StoqL2bz4j7Cl_eDYVj-F6fM7bQdkG0rR7Cku598EHZHHju002KjmHwWtWNXpnpa/s320/DSCN4322.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT.</small><br>
I stop to talk to Dale Walker, cycling on his Trek 520 to Minneapolis to see family. I help him out with some water and three energy bars. I couldn't help with "medical marijuana." He has been on some epic cycling tours: https://www.peacefulvalleywalker.com/<br>
I stop at the Visitor Centre for Lake Superior Provincial Park on Highway 17. A kind lady from Abbotsford B.C. takes an interest in the smart car with the "B.C. or Bust" sign. I see more cyclists.<br>
I stop for gas at Esso on the main highway at Wawa: $10.05. Then at Tim Horton's I encounter a couple from Zurich/Montreal who are attempting Ottawa to Vancouver by bicycle. I stop to help another cyclist but no help required - he is simply walking up a hill - no shame in that.<br>
Through Schreiber, ON, a railway town. Stop at Esso Terrace Bay, Hwy 17, diesel $17.40. A man with relatives in Blighty takes an interest in the smart car.<br>
Across the new Nipigon River Bridge, with triple tower cable-stay design.<br>
Arrive at Prince Arthur Waterfront Hotel & Suites, 17 Cumberland Street North, Thunder Bay, ON, P7A 4K8. Hotel kitty corner from the old CPR railway station. Noisy - freight trains and partying - but great view of Lake Superior. I am not feeling too good so ice cream for supper.<br>
Listening to: Johnny Paycheck "Take this job and shove it!"<br>
464 miles.<br>
<b>Saturday 9 June.</b><br>
Dep 05:42. Find Trans-Canada Highway (TCH) no trouble. Gas at Shell Canada Products, 4794 Highway 11 & 17, Kakabeka Falls at 06:16. Happy to find diesel at this early hour.<br>
Breakfast stop at Black Spruce Motel & Old Country Kitchen, south of Upsala. Breakfast special $5.99, coffee with refill $1.99. Sixties music playing. The good ol' boys have been fishing.<br>
Listening to CBC "bang on" politically correct radio - some lady gardeners calling themselves "eco-feminists" (since when was gardening a political statement?), endless global-warming baloney (what Canada could use is warming up a bit!).<br>
Past Lake Wabigoon (Wobegon?). Tim Horton's at Dryden, ON, arr 09:35, lose an hour. Ask for mug, not disposable cup. The drive-through is choc-a-bloc. Nearby take gas at BG Fuels Gas Bar #3878, 647 Government Road, Dryden, ON. ($16.11). Clean windscreen. Stop at garage sale on exit of town, there is a table of tools but nothing has my name on it.<br>
Endless pickup trucks towing boats. The road is empty for stretches - motoring as she used to be.<br>
Divert through Kenora and Lake of the Woods. 12:40 reach Manitoba, three days of riding through the rocks comes to an end, as I have reached the Prairies. Speed limit rises to a more sensible 100km.<br>
On to Winnipeg - arrive at Travelodge at 14:39 but it is sold out. So to Canad Inns Destination Centre Windsor Park, 1034 Elizabeth Road, Winnipeg, where I apparently get the last room at 15:10. A peculiar hotel where they demand a $200 deposit on the room. Crash out until 21:00 approx - I must have been tired. Snack in hotel $17.67 incl tip, avoiding mayo. There are freight trains and a busy road at the end of the street.<br>
<i>Good Lovelies</i> play Mariposa Folk Festival, Orillia, ON, Sunday July 8th.<br>
432 miles, running total for three days 1,325 miles.<br>
<b>Sunday 10 June.</b><br>
Dep 05:00. Signposted out through Winnipeg city centre, not a snag at this time of day. Turning left at Union Station, I can't help thinking of George Ernest Willmett. Followed by a cop car for a while - unnerving. Take gas at Petro-Canada, 2607 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, at 05:35: $15.<br>
Early morning fog, past Portage La Prairie, to a stop at Sidney, Manitoba - a rather dog-eared town with a rusty old Pontiac Parisienne taking pride of place, amongst other vintage tin.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNVtWJNafIoO9lRVC-8m9-yhbANZddaxr30QHqPcpQI45usLCjeEJsesBKk77N49sXgjR8eunZf7MipSzEOONZ1EhnIiCBZtj1wsfEjCmCKFHl-nEWisN-t1vs4WS4Rlpp10P/s1600/DSCN4326.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJNVtWJNafIoO9lRVC-8m9-yhbANZddaxr30QHqPcpQI45usLCjeEJsesBKk77N49sXgjR8eunZf7MipSzEOONZ1EhnIiCBZtj1wsfEjCmCKFHl-nEWisN-t1vs4WS4Rlpp10P/s320/DSCN4326.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT.</small><br>
Stop at Brandon on TCH for fry-up at A&W (The Dub). The good ol' boys are in residence:<br>
"You going out to the lake?"<br>
"Don't do anything till I get back!"<br>
Listening to <i>The Farm</i> country radio: Chris Janson: "Drunk Girl" (are drinking songs back in fashion?); Dierks Bentley: "What was I Thinking?" Radio reception much better on the Prairies.<br>
Gas at Esso Amethyst Stores Ltd, Trans Canada Highway, Elkhorn at 10:13 - $14.40. Past Moosomin, SK, where the Red Barn is a favourite stop.<br>
Wind and hail warnings on the radio. Travel-trailers fishtailing on the highway. Horrible wrong slot at Regina - a sign simply says road closed ahead - no advice about what to do. I turn south drifting eastward to Krona.<br>
After a spell on gravel roads where I am cursing loudly I regain the TCH, finally back on the black stuff. After passing Reed Lake I reach the Holiday Inn Express, 1301 North Service Rd E, Swift Current ($125.67). The local Co-op is closed, so I dine at Tim Horton's, making a big effort to rehydrate.<br>
551 miles - the Queen Stage.<br>
<b>Monday 11 June.</b><br>
Dep 05:43. A mama duck and brood are attempting to cross the TCH. I hoot loudly and they flee in another direction. I fear for them. Soon after a stag is crossing the road in front of my car, more hooting to deter two followers. Let us hope they made it. Too much roadkill on the highway testifies to daily carnage.<br>
Gas at Gull Lake Esso, Junction Hwy 1 E and Hwy 37 N, Gull Lake, SK at 06:32. The cashier berates me for cleaning more than the glass on the smart car: "No washing!" Good breakfast at adjacent International Diner, Gull Lake, deserved $5 dollar tip. I'm told the boss is an Englishman, speciality English fish and chips.<br>
Gas at Shell Canada Products, 1343 TransCanada Way, Medecine Hat: $10.<br>
Drizzle. I can see the Rockies at last from 100 miles away. Stop at splendid rest area. Chat to local couple heading out to a summer job with a big rig.<br>
Gas at Calgary Co-op Edgefield Gas Bar, 140 Edgefield Place, Strathmere, AB: Total $13, $1.229 per litre. (Due to a collapse in civility in Canada you have to prepay for gas in many places, which leads to a guessing game as to how much you need. Get it wrong and you have to go back for change - that is two transactions instead of one.)<br>
To Co-op store, bought lunch, on quick look round prices seemed higher than in Toronto. Buying beef is everywhere promoted. Cowboy hats are popular in store, both customers and staff.<br>
I take a huge loop around Calgary, with a pitstop for a pic-nic about 50 miles short of Banff in another rest area. Views of snowy mountains. A huge traffic jam is developing eastbound.<br>
Banff has succumbed to mass tourism and is not a pleasant experience. Prices are through the roof. I drive the strip as endless tourists disembark from buses. Managed to find a room at Bumpers Inn: interminable check-in procedures, crashed out at 18:00. $232.37.<br>
402 miles.<br>
<b>Tuesday 12 June.</b><br>
Dep Banff 04:55 for a day of endless mountains. Good idea to go early avoiding traffic and grockles. To Lake Louise for a short tour, taking in the old log railway station from 1910.<br>
Kicking Horse Pass (fantastic), stop at spiral railway tunnels, then down Ten Mile Hill. Cyclists are coming the other way. Crazy. Dropped in at the tiny village of Field, BC, but it was closed. (I am now in B.C.) On to Golden, BC, for gas ($20) and A&W breakfast. Through Rogers Pass to Revelstoke, a railway town with museum, where I take tea at the Main Street Cafe, served by a girl from Melbourne, Australia.<br>
I cut south towards Kelowna, pitstop at Safeway Vernon Square, 4300 32 Street, Vernon for gas $15.00 and a drinkable yoghurt $1.04.<br>
Then at helpful Kelowna tourist information with maps. Over the mountains to Merritt, after struggling to find turn-off. I consider stopping here for the night but think better of it, plenty of cheap motels but not much more than a logging camp.<br>
I carry on to Hope, arriving at Best Continental Motel, 860 Fraser Ave at 17:25 approx. I manage to negotiate a room on the ground floor at Seniors rate, $89.27 - saves battling upstairs with luggage. Good value. To Rollo's Restaurant, next door, a delightful old-fashioned diner, three courses $27 incl tip. Friendly staff, recommended. I take a short stroll after dinner and spot a row of charging points for Tesla electric cars.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUpNTYAFWI9vpQ8pEsoQw0PCF4WGN-pe8qlahLO9vdVcJpXMnfFFhuspbcJ5tD5ynq6QOGlqFKWRmtKXVvUYygzM-Apht6ILMB0eoc10vrnEv1Tkm26lZ4B3VWuSyzmapOXsnf/s1600/DSCN4332.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUpNTYAFWI9vpQ8pEsoQw0PCF4WGN-pe8qlahLO9vdVcJpXMnfFFhuspbcJ5tD5ynq6QOGlqFKWRmtKXVvUYygzM-Apht6ILMB0eoc10vrnEv1Tkm26lZ4B3VWuSyzmapOXsnf/s320/DSCN4332.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT.</small><br>
Hope has the mountains like Banff but none of the gouging. I prefer it.<br>
467 miles.<br>
<b>Wednesday 13 June.</b><br>
Dep 05:00. Find Chevron gas station at Hope - open early. Take coffee while chatting with the cashier about the old days on the Saanich Peninsula (where I am headed) - he laments the loss of commercial daffodil growing, pushed out by development of subdivisions.<br>
Running in the rain in heavy traffic on the TCH. Stop at a welcome rest area where there are many rabbits. Through the southern outskirts of Vancouver.<br>
Reach Tsawwassen for B.C. Ferries "Spirit of Vancouver Island" 09:00 sailing to Swartz Bay (Undersize vehicle and driver: $72.50). Take Starbucks breakfast at Tsawwassen Quay Market. We depart ten minutes late but the captain says he will make up the time. Car alarms keep going off on the car decks. We pass "The Spirit of British Columbia," headed the other way, in the narrows. Rapid unloading at Swartz Bay and I arrive at the house in Sidney at 11.02.<br>
107 miles, total for trip 2,852 miles.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-14329625325763585572018-05-26T16:09:00.000-04:002018-07-19T12:01:22.859-04:00Brexit Tour - May 2018<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-bpzbCbsFYf0zDusmAxrDSMyAcNmoGrsI0SXmVf5faG4pSWHyyVpsyaIQa1ARPTx3uT9auJLgWov8OXz5HOQbfc2qYaPZv6AWyHf0tgtajctPFf4jPCOJnbFEXqpcVSj6gxro/s1600/DSCN4290.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-bpzbCbsFYf0zDusmAxrDSMyAcNmoGrsI0SXmVf5faG4pSWHyyVpsyaIQa1ARPTx3uT9auJLgWov8OXz5HOQbfc2qYaPZv6AWyHf0tgtajctPFf4jPCOJnbFEXqpcVSj6gxro/s320/DSCN4290.JPG" width="240" height="320" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT, click to enlarge.</small><br>
For our Brexit bicycle tour we chose to ride from Prague to Hamburg on the British Brompton bicycle, broadly following the Elbe river.<br>
Cobblestones plagued our route, more suitable for tanks! We enjoyed numerous sightings of Skoda, Tatra, Trabant, Wartburg, Barkas, Ape and Simson. The two-stroke culture of the old DDR continues to fascinate.<br>
A tale of spokes, sporks and spargel, it was a case of "Auf Wiedersehen Pet!"<br>
553 miles plus in total.<br>
<b>Tues 1st May</b><br>
Rail: Lewes to Koln. Lewes - St Pancras - Brussels - Koln. Ticket PBZHBW 1st class. Depart Lewes early doors for the smoke.<br>
08.54 St Pancras to Brussels-Midi 12.02. Breakfast on the train. Train quiet after Lille.<br>
Change at Brussels-Midi, the station in a shambles amid remodelling chaos, befitting the capital of Europe.<br>
12.25 Brussels-Midi to Koln Hbf 14.15. Interesting station at Liege.<br>
IBIS hotel, Koln Am Dom, Bahnhofsvorplatz Altstadt-Nord, 50667 Koln (actually part of the station) +49 221 9128580. 1 night, 3 rooms. €249. Top digs.<br>
Walk across the Hohenzollern bridge and down the Rhine river. Welcome meal at Curios Bistro & Cafe, Theodor-Heuss-Ring 62, 50668 Köln. Doleful beagle begging at tables. Beers at Le Bar Perron, Wyndham Köln Hotel, Breslauer Platz 2, 50668 Köln and also back at the hotel. Warnings everywhere about scofflaws and pickpockets. Good plan to finish the night safely indoors. (Richard visited the cathedral, next to our hotel.)<br>
<b>Wed 2nd May</b><br>
Koln to Prague Rail: Koln - Berlin - Prague Ticket 37D3GD 1st class.<br>
08.48 Koln Hbf to Berlin Hbf 13.06.<br>
Train via Wuppertal (suspension railway) and Wolfsburg (VW factory, home of the diesel software scandal).<br>
The train ran late and we missed our connection for Prague at 13.19. We went into the DB First Class lounge at Berlin, (view of the Reichstag), for complementary beers and snacks.<br>
15.19 Berlin Hbf to Praha hl.n arr 19.35.<br>
Happy hour starts at the Czech border in a restored vintage dining car. Gambrinus bottled beer. We detrain in good order at Prague.<br>
Bicycle to apartment. I arrive at the digs long before my companions and obtain keys. Satnav takes them to another apartment, 200 yards away, with very similar name.<br>
Prague Royal Apartment Serikova, Serikova 7, Prague 11800, Czech Republic. Tel: +420 739 544 128. 2 nights: 2 bedroom apartment €401. Generally good but collapsing beds.<br>
Late evening at nearby bars: Kamparium cellar bar, Říční 540/9, 118 00 Malá Strana, very cheap beer. Then Klub Ujezd - Hieronymous Bosch-like bar furniture.<br>
<b>Thurs 3rd May</b><br>
In Prague. Gargantuan three-course breakfast at Café Slavia, Smetanovo nábř. 1012/2, 110 00 Staré Město, a spacious elegant dining room, est 1884. Tram spotting through large windows.
Kyla Brox poster. Wenceslas Square with McDonald's and Starbucks. To Cafe Arco, Masarykovo railway station. Tobruk Cafe: asked for English breakfast tea, received English breakfast. €5 tip soothes the situation.
Discussed route out of Prague - agreed to take the tram to avoid traffic and cobbles. Beers in Kamparium, then Pizzeria Capretto, Újezd 590/8, Malá Strana, 150 00 Praha 5-Malá Strana-Smíchov.<br>
<b>Fri 4th May</b><br>
Stage 1, 36 miles: Prague to Roudnice nad Labem.<br>
I have had little training for the tour, limited to about 40 miles, due to the severe winter in Canada. Jetlagged and road weary, I can only ride myself back to fitness.<br>
Start the day at Artic Bakehouse, Újezd 11, 150 00 Malá Strana, Prague, for breakfast outdoors, then cross the river on our bikes to catch #17 tram to the Zoo (24 Kč each). The official tour commences westbound by the Vltava river, adjacent to a canoe school. The early going is deceptive on smooth tarmac, but deteriorates rapidly. This is rough stuff for Bromptons, meandering close to the river. We take tea at Restaurace Aramark, in a college at Řež.<br>
Just when we conclude that no sensible Brompton rider would be going this way we encounter Karl-Heinz Genther on his custom Brompton with Schlumpf mountain drive. We compare notes. Should we have crossed the river and tried the paths on the other side? Coffee stop at Máslovice at a "No Name" cafe: three Turkish coffees, two hot dogs and a bowl of lentil soup with bread, €1.50.<br>
We had intended to go on via Melnik but we notice a short cut on a map away from the river by way of Ledčice. Lunch stop at Nová Ves, in parkette next to roadside foodstore. Sporks deployed. A large hill looms ahead which we succeed in bypassing.<br>
Arrive Ubytovani v rodinnem dome, Zizkova 706, Roudnice nad Labem, 413 01, Czech Republic. Phone +420 777 292 261. 3 rooms reserved. B&B with very good breakfast included, €80 for three, outstanding value.<br>
A bike race is in progress with all the attendant hoopla - the Course de la Paix Juniors.<br>
Beers and supper at Restaurace U Faustů, Pracnerova 701, 413 01 Roudnice nad Labem. The barman is anxious that we take dinner - the Czech menu being decoded by google translate - full marks for initiative.<br>
We repair to a bar in town - cafe bar Giraffe - where a local 'builder' is displaying his bum at the bar. They claim to have no beer so we move on to Caffe & Grill Ztracená No 2, Špindlerova tř. 798, Roudnice nad Labem, altogether more convivial.<br>
<b>Sat 5th May</b><br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrw6YVtBvF17-jTRGKuWElu6mUFyDA5-L3xRxWJi9YAgXFdU7j1mZm5X-5uYQobaTcV0ZkMSUXylYme7QyAj1Hx0K16iUbhhbMQaw-kweEQDcdb1e-wZjhSxfpAvRxDxK75_I/s1600/DSCN4292.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlrw6YVtBvF17-jTRGKuWElu6mUFyDA5-L3xRxWJi9YAgXFdU7j1mZm5X-5uYQobaTcV0ZkMSUXylYme7QyAj1Hx0K16iUbhhbMQaw-kweEQDcdb1e-wZjhSxfpAvRxDxK75_I/s320/DSCN4292.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
Stage 2: Roudnice nad Labem to Decin, 47 miles via Elberadweg.<br>
To Litomerice (Czechoslovak Legions railway display), Masarykovo lock (met Swiss cycling couple on six-month trip to Baku via Kaliningrad) then lunch at Usti nad Labem (nearby a tatty administrative building is flying the EU flag, a sad reminder of this failed experiment). Last stop at roadside shack.<br>
Hotel Ceska Koruna, Masarykovo nám. 60 , Děčín, 40502, Czech Republic, +420 412 516 104. 3 rooms reserved, Breakfast inc, €164. Good value.<br>
A Tatra T613 is parked in the square outside our hotel. To China Restaurant Peking, in the square, where a hard-working guy is both barman and cook. Watching Giro d’Italia on TV, while twitchy patrons wait for the soccer to start.<br>
<b>Sun 6th May</b><br>
Stage 3: Decin to Dresden, Germany (44 miles).<br>
Enter Germany via Elberadweg. Stop at Schöna (Germany), ferry across river to Hřensko (Czechia). Hotel Labe for coffee outdoors.<br>
Richard and Jack cross the bridge at Bad Schandau. Königstein Fortress on left, high above the river, a prison in WW2. On the east bank I am cliffed out and traverse the hillside, mostly on foot, for about 3-miles in mountain bike territory.<br>
Ferry Stadt Wehlen to Potschau. Regrouped at Pirna bridge. Elberadweg closed, bridge under construction. Richard and Rupe cross precarious metal channel with bikes. Jack balks at excessive vibration. Regroup near Pillnitz.
We arrive in Dresden via the <i>Thomas Klewe Brücke</i>, the Blue Wonder bridge.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00IjzBywAbwcWdCwkeqiYCxzA72ZMJv8AJRANnRK1ntT2dyNWHYRgvLhzw7Xg_g8eQoS3Gp9kPWljJzGoH1HTa4MTzgaGa9cOECvgkzpp_sAUIgkPF2cIBnVZxp5bcq1js-E1/s1600/DSCN4294.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi00IjzBywAbwcWdCwkeqiYCxzA72ZMJv8AJRANnRK1ntT2dyNWHYRgvLhzw7Xg_g8eQoS3Gp9kPWljJzGoH1HTa4MTzgaGa9cOECvgkzpp_sAUIgkPF2cIBnVZxp5bcq1js-E1/s320/DSCN4294.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
Motel One Dresden, Am Zwinger, Postplatz 5, 01067 Dresden. Phone +49 351 438380. 3 rooms reserved. 2 nights €414.<br>
I take a short cut on final approach and am there in time to order Radeburg beers for the boys on arrival in the modern foyer bar. To quirky <i>Hans im Gluck</i> for supper. Dessert in traditional Paulaner's.<br>
<b>Mon 7th May</b><br>
In Dresden Motel One, Dresden Am Zwinger - as above.<br>
Bergbahn x 2. All day tickets, <i>tageskarte</i>, on trams, buses, etc purchased from helpful lady near our hotel. Jack posts excess clothing home.<br>
Ascend via <i>Standseilbahn</i> (funicular), drinks at Luisenhof with spectacular views of the city. Long walk and bus ride to descent via <i>Schwebebahn</i> (suspension railway, as in Wuppertal). Interesting chat with cafe owner at top of the suspension railway. Evening pizza in Enotria da Miri, Kleine Brüdergasse 1, 01067 Dresden.<br>
<b>Tues 8th May</b><br>
Stage 4: Dresden to Gohlis (48 miles) via Elberadweg.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJUt9BWoRL4laLaqaKZawSPzGiDOxi5y_Jr2O-eszV_CJzp3S80tyvUB6T4o1O5iLRbrh0J_AyDIY7B1fHDwBzccDC7MF9wCr6smu3OBHFC4Y1kL9-d-pxkvlioi5mOi26rDD/s1600/DSCN4303.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNJUt9BWoRL4laLaqaKZawSPzGiDOxi5y_Jr2O-eszV_CJzp3S80tyvUB6T4o1O5iLRbrh0J_AyDIY7B1fHDwBzccDC7MF9wCr6smu3OBHFC4Y1kL9-d-pxkvlioi5mOi26rDD/s320/DSCN4303.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
We back track to Radebeul-Ost on the east bank to see the steam railway and Dresdner Backhaus, Sidonienstr, Radebeul, a stop on a previous tour. Then to Meissen for picnic by the river (Lidl €.9.95). An unhelpful kid upbraids me for parking my bike outside his cafe, so I decide to move on from this tourist trap.<br>
Ferry at Niederlommatzsch. The boys are about half an hour behind. Somewhere en route I notice a broken spoke.<br>
Jack punctures at Grodel, unaided by unwelcoming householder, suspicious workshop owner.<br>
Back together for drinks at Hotel Moritz, Dorfstraße 2, 01619 Moritz / Zeithain bei Riesa. A welcoming oasis.<br>
Broken spoke removed at Gohlis.<br>
Pension Remenar & Lorenz, Lindenstraße 20, Gohlis, 01619 Zeithain, phone+49 174 3336956<br>
Apartment, in Gohlis nr Zeithain, reserved €60. (No breakfast).<br>
Walk to supper at soccer club: SV Königsblau Sportkantine Gohlis, Waldstraße 14, 01619 Zeithain. Table knocking.<br>
<b>Weds 9th May</b><br>
Stage 5: Gohlis to Leipzig (63 miles) by road, via Riesa.<br>
Pitstop for coffee at Ferienhof Reichert, then breakfast in the square at Hofmann's Hutte, Oschatz. Wrong turn out of Liptitz, Jack and Richard double back, Rupe goes own way. Very few places open, very hot day.<br>
Apartment in Leipzig reserved €84: WELCOME appt, 25 Volksgartenstraße, Nordost, 04347 Leipzig Phone +49 1522 3162914.<br>
We split up as I head for a bike shop in Leipzig: Bike Department Ost GmbH, Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 31, 04107 Leipzig. After circling the town I reach the store circa 17:30. They are initially reluctant to help but after some wheedling two new spokes are fitted by about 18:40. €33.50 for repairs and they refuse a tip!<br>
My tour is saved. I am so elated that I set off in the wrong direction. Despite phone contact I cannot find my companions so check into Pentahotel, Großer Brockhaus 3, 04103 Leipzig - a bike-friendly hotel very welcome in the circumstances. Club sandwich and Beck’s beer at the bar. €157.50 for the night incl bar tab.<br>
<b>Thurs 10th May</b><br>
Stage 6: Leipzig to Dessau (48 miles) by road:<br>
Not wishing to waste time we arrange to meet on the road, which happens by chance at Delitzsch. Everything otherwise closed - Ascension and Fathers' Day. Flowers and balloons on local bikes. Burger at roadside Thuringer Rostbratwurstgrill. Ice-creams at Raguhn.<br>
We separate on final approach and I head for the station for necessary pitstop. I can't find the digs so I settle outside the Bauhaus where the boys finally appear. I am so tired I can hardly stand - carrying the bike up three floors at the hotel finishes me off. Richard, having shed weight all along, buys a heavy book at the Bauhaus.<br>
Dessau 3 rooms reserved: Hotel 7 Saulen, €180, breakfast inc, near the Bauhaus. Ebertallee 66, 06846 Dessau, Phone +49 340 619620. Good hotel but no lift.<br>
Later beers at hotel and dinner at Greek restaurant nearby: Athos, Kornhausstraße 1, 06846 Dessau-Roßlau.<br>
<b>Fri 11th May</b><br>
Stage 7: Dessau to Magdeburg (approx 54 miles).<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpg9GWTumrFcpNYRLt7r32RtGcmMiBwM8bYG1R01Bq05-lpWjQe-6AMQWNYA_xuGEXGWw4L00HTS7IdTdlxLpFP3yUOUvqzxJ3CI8tytUk6kUMTEWG3GmhSGq4tXZA_hRrALJl/s1600/%2521cid_908EB537-4283-426A-A9A4-42B1D8659318.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpg9GWTumrFcpNYRLt7r32RtGcmMiBwM8bYG1R01Bq05-lpWjQe-6AMQWNYA_xuGEXGWw4L00HTS7IdTdlxLpFP3yUOUvqzxJ3CI8tytUk6kUMTEWG3GmhSGq4tXZA_hRrALJl/s320/%2521cid_908EB537-4283-426A-A9A4-42B1D8659318.jpg" width="320" height="210" data-original-width="640" data-original-height="420" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RB</small><br>
Visit to Kornhaus by the Elbe river before leaving town. Early separation so I am back on the blackstuff and unusually for me heading the party as far as Schönebeck. Coffee at Groß Rosenburg. Ferry non-existent at Werkleitz on River Saale, so via Calbe, then stop at ice cream shop: Jannys Eis, 60, Friedrichstraße 54, 39218 Schönebeck, where the boys catch up, after various re-routings. Lidl lunch, then L51 to Magdeburg. Final approach along top of dykes. Drink in garden at Restaurant "Die Kirche", Alt Prester 86, 39114 Magdeburg. Derelict bridge on left, subject of rescue mission.<br>
B&B Hotel Magdeburg (in Altstadt), Otto-von-Guericke-Straße 34, 39104 Magdeburg, Phone +49 391 59768280. 3 rooms reserved €402 for 2 nights. Rude receptionist, dealt with.<br>
Shopping for shorts at C&A (€25.20), toothpaste, drugs etc. Supper at Magado, Ulrichpl. 10, 39104 Madgeburg.<br>
<b>Sat 12th May</b><br>
In Magdeburg B&B Hotel, as above.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgIKFc1lIjYSPmba1ERxFUn1HlIPAPrxFyxNSmg49V3B27XDNsNSfFtK8pMYFafYdIuRUcq9QHvZIFjGKjqjRk5vMpagpjpqdV9ENeqMqQ972qBFQVEuuSM-rz3lO1sNb5h5_1/s1600/%2521cid_C3AC0AC7-707F-4506-8A9A-76178ED7D5DF.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgIKFc1lIjYSPmba1ERxFUn1HlIPAPrxFyxNSmg49V3B27XDNsNSfFtK8pMYFafYdIuRUcq9QHvZIFjGKjqjRk5vMpagpjpqdV9ENeqMqQ972qBFQVEuuSM-rz3lO1sNb5h5_1/s320/%2521cid_C3AC0AC7-707F-4506-8A9A-76178ED7D5DF.jpg" width="276" height="320" data-original-width="552" data-original-height="640" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RB</small><br>
Buy <i>tageskarte</i> at transit shop in town. To Green Citadel - modern "Green" building, painted pink – including courtyard coffee shop. To IKEA by tram, past Woolworth's - no sporks. Then bike shop. S-Bahn from wrecked station, in search of tower. Day trippers on vintage tram.<br>
Evening nibbles and beers in Rupe's room, watching Giro d'Italia. Too tired for dinner.<br>
<b>Sun 13th May</b><br>
Stage 8: Magdeburg to Stendal (53 miles).<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4ovIljITwYxObmKFaTS2p-mwhKbuw5xGNF4WTqYKSVtGClpurGlPnmaWKnftvXlm6Wsejp245KpmBYP8WwoD1c55eh-S93EfP8jtOXZZ09S74K_CaZJfBmab9JA0ZHtMoqPz/s1600/DSCN4310.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc4ovIljITwYxObmKFaTS2p-mwhKbuw5xGNF4WTqYKSVtGClpurGlPnmaWKnftvXlm6Wsejp245KpmBYP8WwoD1c55eh-S93EfP8jtOXZZ09S74K_CaZJfBmab9JA0ZHtMoqPz/s320/DSCN4310.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT.</small><br>
Breakfast a zoo at the hotel, poor value and a mistake. Magdeburg by road north to Stendal. Climb up to inspect Elbe Havel Kanal. Drinks at Angern. Then via Wolmirstedt, Loitsche, Rogatz, Angern. Sandbeiendorf, Tangerhutte, Gohre, Dahlen, Demker, Heeren.<br>
Everywhere Sunday closing: supermarkets, cafes, shops. Ice cream at petrol station. Barkas van.<br>
Altstadt-Hotel, Breite Straße 60, 39576 Stendal. Phone +49 3931 69890. €186. 3 rooms reserved. Good digs.<br>
Stendal altogether pleasant. Beers at Cafe Muller, opposite the hotel, then indoors at Italian restaurant: Ristorante Gelateria Italia, Breite Str. 5, 39576 Stendal (€80.20).<br>
<b>Mon 14th May</b><br>
Stage 9: Stendal to Domitz by road (73.4 miles).<br>
The Queen stage, no supermarkets, cafes, shops - this is rural country. Rupe no water.<br>
Stop at helpful bike store at Binde: Radkultur Starck.<br>
Divert to Wolfshotel am Arendsee, then backtrack. Landlady making song and dance about serving lemonade and ice cream. How hard can it be?<br>
On arrival cross to north of Elbe over bridge on B191 to Domitz.<br>
Domitzer Hafen Hotel, Hafenplatz 3, 19303 Dömitz. Phone+49 38758 364290, 3 Rooms reserved, €212.<br>
A bike-friendly hotel hugely welcome at the end of a long day. An old converted warehouse in a harbour with maritime-industrial vibe. Baffled by master-switch in bedroom. Restaurant on site - litre steins of beer with supper. Panorama Cafe on 4th floor for breakfast, great views. Recommended.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56vW5B1hvVFVOe-mi2AG79a86tzpxZS__uIXIN74XJYvKrPThJsb5nVLnVFZJgffew40BqYAHqrH-bwCAMhdtk7KRBaDW1CgdpE-YnkM6IGUm0WXq02kRuTdIyyFdtuFD8bSi/s1600/%2521cid_889F18B6-D0C9-4417-A3FA-F59A28E772D4.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56vW5B1hvVFVOe-mi2AG79a86tzpxZS__uIXIN74XJYvKrPThJsb5nVLnVFZJgffew40BqYAHqrH-bwCAMhdtk7KRBaDW1CgdpE-YnkM6IGUm0WXq02kRuTdIyyFdtuFD8bSi/s320/%2521cid_889F18B6-D0C9-4417-A3FA-F59A28E772D4.jpg" width="320" height="228" data-original-width="640" data-original-height="456" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RB</small><br>
<b>Tues 15th May</b><br>
Stage 10: Domitz to Luneburg (51 miles).
Cross to south side of Elbe, then Damnatz (time-wasting wrong slot which kicks the stuffing out of me). Now in lockdown just hoping to survive the day, walking on the flat! Main road all the way. Stop at roadside <i>trödelmarkt</i>, a bust. Rendezvous at Di-Ma cafe, Dannenburg, for ice-cream.<br>
Town centre, apartment reserved, €135. Wohnung in Luneburg, 19 Sülztorstraße, Altstadt, 21335 Lüneburg. Phone +49 176 82139462.<br>
I lose the boys on final approach to Luneburg and am too mentally tired to go looking. After a pitstop at FRIEDAs am Wasserturm, Am Wasserturm 15, 21335 Lüneburg, I continued about 10 miles to Hotel sur Linde, Bundesstraße 8, 21423 Winsen (Rottorf). A German knight-of-the-road paced me on his electric bike and sorted out the arrangements at the hotel. The landlady arrives by smart car. €49 incl breakfast. Supper at Taverna Bei Kosta, Bundesstraße 34, 21423 Winsen (Rottorf), salad and spaghetti, a short walk from the hotel. Suitable. Bicycle racing on TV at hotel.<br>
<b>Weds 16th May</b><br>
Stage 11: Luneburg to Hamburg (36 miles – less for me).<br>
Set off in good order next morning to a tea stop at Soetebiers Dorfbäckerei, Harburger Straße 8, 21435 Stelle. Puzzled by "H-H" signs, which meant "Hamburg-Harburg." Not much use when in either. Finally I climb a tall dyke which gives a view of Hamburg <i>mitte</i> - I can see the distinctive Elbphilharmonie building in the distance. While working my way through the docks another Brompton comes up alongside and we stop with a bunch of hipsters at Odo's Kaffeeklappe, a <i>trinkhalle</i> in an old container, complete with grafitti, for coffee and lemonade. A Citroën DS <i>décapotable</i> pulls up outside with top down.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhex9SXUBW9xs3hgM8TBPj7YrXPERK8mWnTWMLlqTR0e-3Ii7gXQgtwV0WgUrRcJiKm3W_bIDAlGCYndOBhyrnB-qzXhvNeI3fu8rJ5vnq4nFV4KCnWs667cUA49ZowfkN5KgY4/s1600/DSCN4316.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhex9SXUBW9xs3hgM8TBPj7YrXPERK8mWnTWMLlqTR0e-3Ii7gXQgtwV0WgUrRcJiKm3W_bIDAlGCYndOBhyrnB-qzXhvNeI3fu8rJ5vnq4nFV4KCnWs667cUA49ZowfkN5KgY4/s320/DSCN4316.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
I come upon the historic Elbetunnel-St Pauli and emerge into a part of the city known to me. Made my way via the Hbf to meet the boys at a cafe table in the Hansaplatz. Lunch at Turkish restaurant: LauRes, Kreuzweg 12, 20099 Hamburg. No alcohol served.<br>
Boutique 020 Hotel Hamburg City, Ellmenreichstr. 20, St. Georg 20099 Hamburg. Phone: +49 40 244440. Reserved 2 nights 3 rooms €564. No breakfast. Close to central station.<br>
<b>Thurs 17th May</b><br>
In Hamburg. Accounts evening up. Breakfast at Stadt Backerei, Mohlenhofstrasse. Visit Chilehaus. Guitar shop. WW2 Anti-Aircraft tower, now music shops and school. Truncated Beatles tour at Grosse Freiheit.
Rinder Market Halle, veggie Jalfresi, happy hour at Vino Fino.<br>
'S' Bahn to Hbf (€1.60 each). Walked away from seedy St Georg district to supper at Prego Restaurant Pizzeria, Lilienstraße 36, 20095 Hamburg.<br>
<b>Fri 18th May</b><br>
Return to UK - arcane argument at Hamburg Hbf DB lounge as to our eligibility in the first class lounge. DB up to all their usual tricks and displaying their poor judgment. How many classes of first class can there be? Baffle your customers with BS.<br>
Rail: Hamburg to Blighty<br>
08.46 Hamburg Hbf - Köln Hbf 12.50<br>
13.43 Koln Hbf - Bruxelles-Midi 15.35<br>
16.56 Bruxelles-Midi - London St Pancras 18.06<br>
Ticket: 18DC73 1st class £427.<br>
<b>Overall:</b> Not the longest but probably the toughest tour to date, due to cobbles and uneven surfaces. Comments below echo previous tours:<br>
<b>Plus Points:</b> We were better prepared than before. Minimal luggage but could be cut further (excess posted home); weather mostly good (no rain but two days very hot); health benefits (the gift that keeps on giving). Bromptons generally reliable. Mobile phone mitigated separations but not infallible. Painkillers (Ibuprofen).<br>
<b>Downsides:</b> One puncture, two broken spokes. Michelin GPS navigation/direction finding a mixed bag - can lead you up the garden path. Getting separated particularly late in the day when fatigued; too much bushwhacking.<br>
<b>Learning points:</b> The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre a must for touring, particularly beneficial on rear wheel. Fit later-type stronger Brompton front wheel to earlier models. Investigate lighter bag and luggage. We had some energy gels on tour but not enough.<br>
<b>Overall:</b> Toughest tour yet, but still felt good to be alive.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-54425542667965905752017-09-14T12:06:00.000-04:002018-05-23T07:35:14.012-04:00Four Countries Tour - part 3Scandinavia - Sweden and Denmark<br>
<br>
Depart Prague on Czech Airlines propeller plane ATR 72-OK MFT. We fly north over a large off-shore wind farm, nothing is turning. We arrive Landvetter Airport, Göteborg. Get rapid cash and bus ticket, then Volvo bus to downtown train station, travel time 30 mins approx. Short walk to hotel. Back in streetcar world.<br>
Hotel Eggers, Drottningtorget 2-4, 411 03 Göteborg, Sweden (a traditional old-style hotel).<br>
Lunch at Wayne's Coffee - Ostra Hamngatten 30-34/149.<br>
Evening at hotel - 3 x Vega Azalea Lager 5.2%, 2 x veggie burgers, 1 x lemonade, 600 SEK including tip.<br>
<b>Thursday 20 July</b><br>
Station Announcement: "Beware of pickpockets. Never leave your luggage unattended." Not the Sweden I remember.<br>
To Trollhättan - direction Karlstad. 09:15 train 356 Vasttrafik SJ regional, track 8. 248 SEK for 2 return tickets - ticket with QR code - travel restricted to chosen train out and back. Castle on left at 09:26. Walk to Saab Museum past Erik Carlsson Roundabout.<br>
8th June 1980 - last 96 off the line at Saab-Valmet, Nystad, Finland. Total of 730,607 made 92 + 93 + 96. V4 engine introduced August 1966. Raymond Baxter film at Mantorp Park, described as the drag race HQ of Sweden.<br>
Walk via canal to Trollhättans Arbetareforening, Stifford 1867, Strandgatan bistro and bar for lunch outdoors: fish and chips, juice, 300 SEK. Watching boats on the canal, then walk via lift bridge to:<br>
Jarnvagsstation 14:07 platform (spår) 2, delayed to 14:15.<br>
Supper from Netto near hotel, a bit grotty - picnic on bench by the canal, then hotel bar.<br>
<b>Friday 21 July</b><br>
To station to buy day ticket x 2 for bus-train-boat, SEK 90 each.<br>
#16 bus to Eketragatan (baffled while we discover no trams are currently running on this route), then #32 bus to Arendals Skans (Volvo hybrid bus). Motor cuts out at stops, sounds like electric launch (initially intriguing but streetcars have been doing this for over a century).<br>
Volvo Museum: entry 100 + 80, total 180 SEK. Volvo 1927-2017 - 90 years of innovation. Horrible litter outside the museum.<br>
Founders Gustaf Larson, Assare Gabrielsson. Open-door management policy.<br>
1st car - OV4 of 1927 (sidevalve, 3-bearing crank, 1940 c.c.)<br>
Volvo PU444 - 1947.<br>
PV544 Fixlight 1180 accessory.<br>
Volvo P1900 - 1954, fibreglass, 67 off.<br>
Volvo 66 - 1976, ex-DAF, CVT transmission.<br>
Volvo 480 - 1st front-wheel-drive.<br>
Volvo "Lego" car.<br>
Nedcar in the Netherlands.<br>
Boat engines: Volvopenta.com<br>
Some great models in cases.<br>
Wittenborg coffee machine, multi-language, touch-screen - with Volvo images. Coffee/tea SEK 25 each.<br>
Huge Volvo campus. Altogether a more corporate feel compared to the Saab Museum. Grupo bus tours arriving - mass tourism. Litter had gone when we left.<br>
#6E M.A.N. bus back to town.<br>
We take the antique tram to Liseberg and back.<br>
<b>Saturday 22 July</b><br>
We are disappointed to learn that the streetcar museum is closed on Saturdays. But the "just show up" mentality kicks in and we head out to see what we can see. After getting on the wrong tram to Gamlestaden, we backtrack to Göteborgs Spårvägmuseum, J Sigfrid Edströms Gata 2, Gårda, Gothenburg.<br>
By chance we arrive at the rear of the streetcar barns and bump into Gustav Gotthardsson, who greets us cheerily and takes us on a tour of the museum. (A different approach to that shown by the execrable Škoda Museum - see <a href="http://punchbuggy.blogspot.ca/2017/07/skoda-museum-complete-pita.html"><i>PunchBuggy Passim</i></a>.)<br>
Up until 1967 trams boarded on the left, but then Sweden switched to driving on the right. The collection includes #15 from 1902, the oldest electric tram. We also saw the Czech Tatra T7 B5 party or conference wagon, decked out for special events.<br>
Afterwards we walk past the new streetcar barns at Göteborgs Spårvägar, then birdwatching in the cemetery at Stampens Kyrkogård.<br>
We cannot resist taking the antique tram to Liseberg once more as Gustav shows up in uniform. SEK 25 each rtn.<br>
Lunch at Rosenkaféet - prawn open-face sandwich, prawn salad, lemonade - outdoors in the flower garden, SEK 301. Recommended.<br>
What looks like a JAS-39 Gripen jet fighter flies overhead, waggling its wings.<br>
We tour Trädgårds Föreningen, a botanical garden with greenhouses. Appearing in the park that evening Per Gessle solo tour (ex-Roxette: "It must have been love" etc).<br>
Supper at "Pane Fresco" in the Nord Mall: Pizza, Carlsberg x 1, SEK 179, SEK 200 incl tip. Evening at bar in Eggers Hotel. Beer: Melleruds Utmarkla Pilsner Ekologisk from Mellerud.<br>
We talk to bar manager and actor, David Lindström, seen on History Channel "Vikings." Turns out there is a local film industry in Göteborg and Trollhättan (aka Trollywood).<br>
<b>Sunday 23 July</b><br>
Dep O8:40 Göteborg Nils Ericson Terminalen, #1051 Mercedes-Benz bus to Göteborg-Mölndal. Then train #1051, wagon 11, seats 14-17, Öresundståg 1 Klass, destination Copenhagen.<br>
Annette enjoys crossing the Øresund Bridge.<br>
Check in to Absalon Hotel, Helgolandsgade 15, 1653 København (3 nights). In room at 12:51. Hotel has good buffet breakfast, bike rental, Duralex glasses.<br>
Walk to Dansk Bank. We witness a bicycle accident - lady hit by car and decked - fortunately not serious. Rainstorm.<br>
Thai supper at Poonchai Thai Restaurant, Istedgade 1, 1650 København V. Singha beer DKK 39.00, total DKK 406.00 plus tip.<br>
<b>Monday 24 July</b><br>
07:21 First Class train København to Rungsted Kyst. Stops Nørreport, Østerport, Hellerup, Klamenborg, Skodsborg, Vedbaek, Rungsted Kyst. Then "Togbus" (rail replacement) to Helsingør.<br>
Statues: Hamlet and Ophelia by Rudolph Tegener; end of pier HAN by Elmgreen and Dragset.<br>
Elsinore town walk with 20 signposted stops incl Kronburg Castle. Build-your-own Lego ship at the Maritime Museum.<br>
Kitchen shop Inspiration.dk. Snork Maiden spoon SEK 79.95.<br>
Kaffe Juice Fabrikken (JFK), Stengade 52, 3000 Helsingør - curious American-themed coffee house, 25 x 2 filter coffee, Bodum cup. Shakes and drinks named for U.S. Presidents, including Trump. "Better Latte than never!"<br>
Ferry Helsingør to Helsingborg 11:28 <i>Mercandia IV</i>. Very rapid turnaround of car ferry for 20-minute crossing back to Sweden. The boat is a floating duty-free grogshop. Hop the 12:11 train to Malmö, riding in quiet car.<br> Stops: Landskrona, Lund C, Malmö C. Grafitti: "Bust the Boom and sleep til Noon!"<br>
Quick lunch at <i>La Pasta Veloce</i>, Neptunigatan 28, near station, 2 x Pomodoro SEK 128.<br>
Walk to old police house used in filming "The Bridge."<br>
14:33 (dep 14:37) Malmö to København. Second crossing of Øresund Bridge. Back at hotel 15:29. Beer at hotel bar. There are hookers lurking about outside. Lidl supermarket total DKK 44.75.<br>
<b>Tuesday 25 July</b><br>
Walk to Polititorvet (another location from "The Bridge"), then Fisketorvet Copenhagen Mall. We have come to see the Bryggebroen (The Quay Bridge), a bicycle and pedestrian bridge. Parts of it are bicycle only but we also observe runners and a drunk with a skateboard. This is a top place for bike watching - Riese and Muller, Bullitt, Nihola cargo bikes etc.<br>
09:28 boat Bryggebroen to Nordre Toldbod. On arrival we can see the Little Mermaid in the distance, but mass tourism drives us away. The cruise ships dock beyond.<br>
We head for the Design Museum Denmark - Dursley-Pedersen Cykel (also produced the world's first internal-gear-hub for bicycles).<br>
Arne Jacobsen (1902-1971) architect SAS Hotel - first skyscraper in Copenhagen. "Gesamtkunstwerk" - designing the building and all the contents.<br>
Via Staerekassen, August Bournonvilles Passage, to lunch at Café Diamanten, Gammel Strand 50, 1202 København K: crabcakes, smorgasbord (also Duralex glasses).<br>
Then to Kunstforeningen, Gammel Strand 48, 1202 København K, for the Tove Jansson Exhibition. Moomin cartoons first appeared in 1947 in the newspaper "Ny Tid" then the Evening News in England, 1954-1960. Jansson hated school, dropped out. Produced political cartoons during WW2. Her brother drew some of the Moomin cartoons in the same style.<br>
Copenhagen Historic Grand Prix, 5-6 August.<br>
<b>Wednesday 26 July</b><br>
We are determined to make the most of our last day. We walk to Aldi, Ingerslevgade 60, following the railway line past the international bus stops. Next door we spot Baisikeli.dk bicycle store, rentals etc. We chat to Neils Bonefeld who tells us about the African connection. They ship old bikes to Mozambique for re-use (apparently there are 500,000 bikes abandoned in Denmark each year). Unfortunately this relationship has lately gone to the bad, and they are considering hooking up with Bogota, Colombia, where the Mayor is apparently doing good things. Across the street is home to Nihola.com. Generally in Copenhagen you see few bike helmets, perhaps 50/50 male/female riders.<br>
Drinks at Espresso House, Fisketorvet: "Dear Tea Society - Very Merry Rooibos", Coffee El Salvador special. At Elgiganten electrical store we admire a Moccamaster coffee machine "Handmade in the Netherlands."<br>
At Dybbølsbro we spot a Puch motorbike. We note a district heating scheme is being installed nearby: isoplus.dk<br>
Walk back to hotel, then 2 x 36 <i>Zonebillet</i> tickets for train to airport. 14:35 take off, last view of the Øresund Bridge.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-20220173890125194562017-08-30T11:20:00.001-04:002017-08-31T07:27:04.511-04:00Four Countries Tour - part 2On to Czechia (also Czech Republic, aka Szkicia):
<b>Saturday 15th July</b><br>
Our train, Berlin hbf to Praha h.ln, EC171- Carl Maria von Weber - hurtles on towards Prague. First stop in CZ: Decin h.ln, then Usti nad Laben hl.n; dep 10:16, (cable car, large railyards, dereliction), then Praha - Holesovice. Destination Praha-hl.n - touts and robbers offering to change money are on the concourse. Not a good first impression.<br>
Switch to Track 4S 12:22 EXP143 for Ostrava-Svinov, arrive 15:34.<br>
Stops: Praha-Leben, Kolin, Pardubice, Ceska-Trebova, Zabreh na Morave, Olomouc, Hranice na Morave, Ostrava-Svinov.<br>
Going back in the direction just travelled S3 15:42 to Studenka. Stops: Polevka nad Odrou (DNS), Jistebník, Studenka.<br>
16:11 Two car train with open-ended carriages. Stops: Sedlnice, Pribor (charming town), alight Kopřivnice - Zastávka.<br>
Walk to: <i>Interhotel Tatra</i>, Záhumenní 1161, 74221 Kopřivnice, Czech Republic (1 night). A Polka band is playing Saturday night in the square.<br>
To the Brown Frog in hotel: Pilsner Urquell, Penne and salad 305.00 CZK plus generous tip 400.00 CZK for two. Chris Froome retakes lead in TdeF and yellow jersey. Hotel noisy all night.<br>
<b>Sunday 16th July</b><br>
Breakfast - funky coffee machine Bravilor Bonamat, second cup. The town has a collectivist feel with architecture (we didn't see the old town).<br>
The lady at the hotel desk kindly phones the nearby Technické Muzeum Tatra (Tatra museum) on our behalf: contact Mr. Zatopek, curator (speaks English), but not there during our visit. Tatra used to have a factory in Bratislava. In 2 to 3 years there will be a new museum in the local factory (took photos of Tatra factory).<br>
Exhibits: 1967 marathon de la route #65 type T603 B 5. Tatra with Vignale styling. 1920-1930s Zenith carbs. A Hyrail with artillery wheels. Jikov (1936-37), also Solex carbs (1935-1937). Paris-Dakar truck entries 1988, 2009. Special Exhibition re Emil Zatopek, the runner.<br>
Walk to Oldtimer Kopřivnice Auto Moto Museum, Stefanikova 220 - Czech motorbikes: Manet M90, CZ, JAWA, Ogar.<br>
Exhibits include: Skoda - 1908, Skoda 966 Supersport, GAZ M-20, Velorex Czech microcar. Recommended.<br>
Depart Kopřivnice - Zastávka 12:19 for Studenka on 2-car train, watch run around at Studenka while we wait for the 12:58 to Prerov, sunny. RegioJet train roars through in direction of Ostrava.<br>
Prerov direction Brno. Stops: Suchdol nad Odroui, Hravnice na Morave. Changed Prerov where we're refused boarding the 13:59 - private LEO Express train - listed in our Eurail intinerary.<br>
Switch to 14:16 departure for Kolin. Stops: Olomouc, Ceske trebova, Usti nad Orlice. Cheese and crackers lunch, Zlatie Ovesne biscuits. We are stuck with a nutty woman, who curses the ticket-inspector: "Bureaucratic Devils".<br>
16:29 Kolin - Nymburk: directed by the conductor onto the wrong train. We end up at Praha-Masarykovo.<br>
17:51 S2 to Nymburk hl.n. Slow train with many stops: Praha Uysocany, Praha-Horni Pocernice, Zelence, Mstetice, Celakovice, Celakovice-Jirina, Lysa nad Labem, Ostra Stratov, Kostomlaty Labem, Kamennne-Zabozi, Nymburk.<br>
Take #38 bus to Mladá Boleslav. Walk to "Pension Telephone" Bozeny Nemcove 559, 293 01 Mladá Boleslav. Arrive at 20:00, three-and-a-half hours late. Wait until 20:15 but no one is there to let us in. Our booking dishonoured, hungry and tired, we walk to the Hotel Forman, Markova 693, also shut. Taxi to Hotel Venec, Rohacova 188/37, 2400.00 CZK, third floor. This hotel puts the sketch in sketch republic - Hotel Venec turns out to be a relic of the communist era with ancient Grundig TV with a vertical hold fixation, old Ikea furniture, and a serious attitude problem at check-in.<br>
We retreated into the bar across the street, too late to get fed. Restaurace Zlata Kovadlina, Zelezná 33, 29301 Mladá Boleslav. The one decent place we found in Mladá Boleslav. Drinks 120 CZK.<br>
Spotted a convenience store at closing time. Snacks 64 CZK.<br>
<b>Monday 17th July</b><br>
Walk to the Skoda Museum - closed for the day - "State Visit" PITA. See <a href="http://punchbuggy.blogspot.ca/2017/07/skoda-museum-complete-pita.html"><i>PunchBuggy Passim</i></a>. Skoda now a VW-satellite with suits speaking German, totalitarian approach.<br>
The past 24 hours has been like a crash course in crisis management. Adding to the gloom Mladá Boleslav turns out to be a Craptown. Take 09:05 bus to Cerny Most, 45 mins. Bus fare 75.00 CZK x 2. Lady bus driver like Wreckless Eric, swerving on the highway. Yellow line underground to Florenc, red line one stop to Hlavni Nadrazi, 24.00 CZK each.<br>
Falkensteiner Hotel Maria Prague, Opletalova 1402/21, 110 00 Nové Město, Prague, Czech Republic. July 17 - 19 (2 nights).<br>
Arr hotel 10:20, a short walk from the main station. Wait for check-in in foyer (with coffee), in room by 10:55. Good service. Endless Brexit on TV. Tour de France - catching up with yesterday, win for Bauke Mollema, now Rest Day.<br>
Walk to lunch at <i>Pizzerie Green Tomato Restaurante</i>, Jindřišská 938/18, 110 00 Nové Město. Antique decor, tram watching. Choice of 3 flavours of iced tea. Czech Wine: Veltlinske Zelené 0.2l, 55.00 CZK x 2; broccoli and tomato soups, pizza and pasta pesto. Total 622.00 CZK. To Henry's Belltower nearby, then walk to Wenceslas Square.<br>
After time out, walk to the Czech Orthodox Cathedral of Saints Cyril and Methodius, the National Memorial to the Heroes of the Heydrich Terror. (The Czechs disposed of their chief Nazi tormentor rather more efficiently than the Germans. They took him out.)<br>
Walk to Charles Bridge. Art installation: <i>Victoria pragensis</i> - a labyrinth of 936 potted medicinal plant species by Czech architect Juráš Lasovský, at Václav Havel Square, National Theatre Piazzetta. Besides classical buildings there is much modern architecture in Prague, for example the Dancing House.<br>
Hotel Bar: Apple Juice, Budweiser Budvar beer x 4 (one free with welcome drink coupon) 300 CZK, 360 CZK incl tip. Bar empty. Thankful not to be drinking U.S. Budweiser! Later watching TV: <i>Silk Way</i> rally from Moscow to Xian - Kamaz and Tatra trucks.<br>
<b>Tuesday 18th July</b><br>
We blunder into <i>Cafe Arco</i>, patronized by Kafka etc: "the most peculiar part of the rules was the offer of 'severance pay' for incorrigible guests in exchange for a written undertaking that they would never come back to Arco again".<br>
Nearby to Praha-Masarykovo station named for Tomas Masaryk.<br>
Walk across bridge over the Vltava River, climbing through a park to Národní technické muzeum (National Technical Museum), Kostelní 1320/42, 170 78 Praha 7, Czechia. Arrived at opening time. Mercifully the "Technical" name cuts down on tourists, especially early in the day.<br>
Exhibits: Model of Josef Božek's steam car from 1815 (recognizable as a car). Benz Victoria 1893, first car in CZ. NW Prasident - 1898. Lavrin & Klement 1913/1921 of Mladá Boleslav. 1919 new Tatra marque at Kopřivnice. Tatra 11 - 1925. Jawa 750 -1935. Mercedes Benz W154, 1938-39. Aero 50 HP - 1939 - British Registration "GGO 941", also CD plate.<br>
Switch on Nazi takeover from left to right steering wheels. Germans enforced driving on the right. General Alois Elias was Prime Minister, 1939. "In 1942 the Nazis executed General Elias for his activity in the resistance movement." WW2 Three Czech fighter squadrons with Spitfires.<br>
Bill Ivy killed on 4-cylinder Jawa motorbike.<br>
Tour of transport hall takes 1 hr 40 mins; then Kantyna 45 ck x 2 espresso coffee, Kavarna Muzeum, Kosteni 42. Then "Technology in Households" gallery: Filter Coffee machine A-Reiss Hoffspengler Viden 1870-1890. Alcohol burners were placed under two vessels. Photographic studio; Chemistry Around Us gallery explained the science behind everyday materials.<br>
Walk to Billa Store at Modletice 67, 2 x water, chocolate 37 CZK. Then #26 tram from near museum to main train station. I sat in the <i>stammtisch</i> (best seat).<br>
Near hotel spotted "Larry the Lada" Riva 2105, 1295 cc on the <i>Mongol Rally</i> - "keep the CarMa running". Conversation with crew: Dianna Taylor and Gonzalo Palacios. Five weeks; 200 cars; 10,000 miles. Rules call for an old car with a small engine, unsupported (no road back-up). Ten events held already. Arrive Ulan Ude north of Ulan Bator. London-Bruge-Prague controlled stage. Then free-for-all route to Mongolia.<br>
Pitstop at hotel. Walk to <i>Cafe Milani</i>, Jindrisska 23. Rescued a ladybird. Snack lunch 394 CZK, 450 CZK including tip.<br>
Mucha Museum, Panska 7. Museum entry 400 CZK (240/160). Mucha (1860-1939) is among the first to be arrested by the Gestapo, dies in Prague, 14 July 1939. (Germans occupy Prague 15 March 1939.) Alfonse Mucha (a Mason) designed Fouquet jewellery shop in Paris.<br>
Spotted Toyota Tsusho Hybrid.<br>
Visit Central Station to check out airport bus depart 07:30, busstop AE for terminal 2 at airport. 60.00 CZK x 2 - tickets bought in advance.<br>
Nazareth play Lucerna, Praha, 29 August (four piece band).<br>
Bookshop Neopalladium purchased: "Today We Die a Little" by Richard Askwith re Emil Zatopek, 299 CZK.<br>
Supper once more at Pizzerie Green Tomato, 928 CZK - 1100 CZK including tip.<br>
<b>Wednesday 19th July</b><br>
Bus to Prague airport: impressive, modern, uncrowded. Czech Airlines keep adding additional charges. 09:00 in <i>Coffee Shop - SO!</i> for coffee. 200 CZK including tip.<br>
Exhibit at Vaclav Havel Airport: SKODA 422 - 1930.<br>
Annette bought a copy of the Guardian (a claimants newspaper), hazelnut chocolate, a book: <i>Mucha - an Illustrated Life</i> by Roman Neugebauer, total 430 CZK.<br>
Czechia is now a German colony once more with Autobahns and Lidl installed, the commanding heights of the economy, e.g. Skoda, back in German control. Many towns look delapidated as uncompetitive industries closed down. They replaced socialism with shopping (with a nod to the <i>Plastic People of the Universe</i>). They have good beer. Prague is plagued by mass tourism, but has much to commend it off the beaten track. Overall I cannot recommend a holiday in Czechia. It is too much like hard work.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-87355748298134845032017-08-04T08:48:00.001-04:002017-08-18T14:33:18.955-04:00Four Countries Tour - part 1 For our summer tour this year we decided on a trip to Germany, Czechia, Sweden and Denmark. We booked everything ourselves online.<br>
From Toronto Icelandair flight FI 602, departure 21:00, stopover in Keflavik, Iceland; then FI 510 scheduled arrival at Hamburg 13:05 on July 4th. Miserable stopover at Keflavik on way across Atlantic - the airport is a shambles.<br>
Binge-watching "Deutschland '83" on the plane, a German TV-series about DDR activities on both sides of the Wall. It is all good clean fun until somebody gets hurt!<br>
The reality is that the two German states were conducting a low-level civil war in the 1980s. Star player for the Stasi was Carlos The Jackal, who bombed the "Maison de France," a cultural centre in Berlin in 1983.<br>
<b>DIENSTAG 4 Juli</b><br>
Our plane arrives at Hamburg 12:45, some twenty minutes early. A Chinook twin-rotor military helicopter swoops right in behind us on the runway. Welcome to the G20 Gipfel (summit).<br>
We take the S-Bahn to Landungsbrücken, 30 mins approx, €3.10 each. Our <i>Einzelkarte</i> is stamped 13:18.<br>
Past the Hbf, one stop short of the Reeperbahn. There is graffiti galore. The posters say: "G20: Welcome to Hell." A banner in our neighbourhood says: "G20: Ein festival der Idiotie". Reportedly there are 50,000 visitors, plenty of protestors and rows of police vans.<br>
We check in to Hanse Clipper Haus, Dittmar-Koel Str. Our apartment has two floors. This is in the "Portuguese quarter" - many Italian, Portuguese, Tapas restaurants, cafes etc. Lunch outdoors at restaurant <i>Ciao Ana</i>, Ditmar-Koel Str 10: Arabiata, penne tonno, Krombacher Pils, €22.70. Some old buildings survive, also many bicycles, Ape x 2. Afternoon crashed out.<br>
Later at nearby <i>Bairro Bar</i> bar-lounge-cafe, Dittmar-Koel Str 24: Becks x 2, €3.90 each, tea €2.90. To Rewe City, Brauerknectgraben 47, for grocery, very convenient, €15.41 plus 63 cents for milk. Photo: VW 1500. Smart cars everywhere.<br>
<b>MITTWOCH 5 Juli</b><br>
We catch up with the Cavendish-Sagan saga in the Tour de France on TV.<br>
Museum Day. Police mustering near the Elbephilharmonic. Walk to <i>Schanzen Backerei</i>, Holtzbrucke 7: coffee x 1, €1.60.<br>
Waiting for <i>Miniatur Wunderland</i> to open at 08:30 - model trains, moving vehicles, a working airport, great variety of cars - smart, Ape, Thing, Goliath etc. You can see the Control Centre which operates and monitors the layouts. There is a temporary G20 Hamburg sector with visitor messages: "Impeachment NOW!" - "WENIGER AUTOS" - "STOP SEXISMUS" etc. Depressing how half-baked public sentiment turns out to be.<br>
G20 apart, Annette rated Miniatur Wunderland overall as "mindblowing." €13, €11 seniors.<br>
Walk to stylish <i>Prototyp Museum</i>, Shanghaiallee 7, which we can't find due to wrong directions. Eventually we get there - near the Maritime Museum. <i>Cafe Erlkonig</i>, at Museum: Pfankuchen mitt Nutela, Ham and cheese sandwich, coffee x 2. Snack €9.40. F1 movies from the 1950s are playing in the cafe. One of the major exhibits is a shrine to Taffy von Trips. Rare German racing cars. Entry €10 each.<br>
Walk to Hbf, book seat reservations on train to Berlin. As we leave the station folk are boarding-up the Nike store opposite.<br>
We see the G20 "Zombie" protestors at the Chilehaus - <i>1000 Gestalten</i>. They are dressed neatly in grey, with grey faces. They shuffle slowly and do not speak. Their discipline is impressive. If only I knew what point they were trying to make?<br>
We walk back to our digs. Dinner at <i>Luigi's Pizza</i>, Dittmar-Koel Str 21. (Recommended by Kaleb Kowalski at TD Bank in TO.) Busy bustling place, good service. Pizza Milana - mushroon, oregano €8.50, Pizza Vegetarisch €8.50, 2 x Flensburger beer €8.40, Large water €3.80. Grappa and Zambuca bottles and 2 shot glasses arrive with bill, help yourself: €29.20 plus €4 tip. Take home half of each pizza.<br>
<b>DONNERSTAG 6 Juli</b><br>
The day of the self-guided Beatles tour, devised by Annette, after comprehensive research. (None of the organised tours fitted our schedule.) We started early in the morning to avoid both G20 protests and the more tawdry aspects of the Reeperbahn.<br>
Walk to <i>Dat Backhus</i>, Hopfenstrasse 5, "Ein Stuck Hamburg das schmeckt." 2 x Croissant €1.80, 1 Mozarella Baguette, 2 x Coffee €8.40.<br>
Next to our breakfast stop there is a nursery with signs saying: "the children are afraid" - "Politikfrei zone!" We are to see many signs vaguely sympathising with the protestors but asking to be excluded from the mayhem: "No G20, Spare our Store!" This did not work in all cases.<br>
We start the Beatles Tour at St Pauli Police Station, 31 Spielbundenplatz/Davidstrasse, where Paul McCartney and Pete Best allegedly spent the night after some shenanigans. There are a number of police cars parked outside, making for a photo opportunity.<br>
On to Top Ten Club, 136 Reeperbahn; Beatles Platz; Paul Hundertmark Western Store, 9 Spielbundenplatz (where the Beatles bought cowboy boots for early photos, shop now defunct); assorted venues and digs: Kaiserkeller, 36 Grosse Freiheit; Star Club, 39 Grosse Freiheit; Indra, 64 Grosse Freiheit; Bambi Kino, 33 Paul-Roosen Strasse; Lennon Doorway, Jager Passage, 22 Wohlwill Strasse; Hotel Germania, 8 Detlev-Bremer Strasse; return via Top Ten Club, 136 Reeperbahn.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFHcsFi6YTPzPdPxnp8godFHZJyjn3cVAU1EiSV-0WhQNKlfnHGR52BYGJFp2s-GOgajxdlzq_QrssE0cb_lwWlLfHe4Bp5rmdKwgKUgEQgdkSjKufAEpoZ348TG0S32EyD3-/s1600/DSCN3623.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFHcsFi6YTPzPdPxnp8godFHZJyjn3cVAU1EiSV-0WhQNKlfnHGR52BYGJFp2s-GOgajxdlzq_QrssE0cb_lwWlLfHe4Bp5rmdKwgKUgEQgdkSjKufAEpoZ348TG0S32EyD3-/s320/DSCN3623.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
During this tour we come across what looks like the HQ of the Black Block anarchists, "Rosa Flora" or some such. You have to wonder why anarchists need an office? (You don't have to be an anarchist to hate the slavery of a desk and telephone.)<br>
Then walk to <i>Lieblings Cafe</i>, Detlev-Bremer-Strasse 50, for coffee on the pavement opposite a Postbank. Coffee x 3, €8.60. We see smart cars, bicycles including Brompton, also an electric BMW drives past. Small children are being shepherded to school on bicycles - it all looks very hazardous in the traffic.<br>
Lunch at <i>O Pescador</i>, Dittmar-Koel Str 17. Complementary salad and bread, Mittagliche Karte: #5 Gegrillet fisch plate, €7.50; #7 Nudeln mit geschreddertier hunchen fleisch, Vino verde 0.25l x 2, wasser still. €26.10.<br>
Russians at the next table are having a G20 blowout: huge steak lunches, drinking (wine, beer, hard liquor) and smoking. It is an ill wind!<br>
Visit to St Michaelis Church, €2 donation.<br>
G20 on TV: <i>Wasserwerfer</i> (water cannon), sirens, helicopters. Estimated €12 million damage for the whole gig, mostly vandalism and fire raising. This is a made-for-TV event: the whole aim being to bring scenes of chaos to your screens. In that the protestors succeeded.<br>
The democratic credentials of many G20 leaders/attendees are also in short supply. The rot is not confined to the protestors. While we were in Hamburg democracy was missing in action. Why did they choose this city, a known centre for agitators?<br>
<b>FREITAG 7 Juli</b><br>
TV: "Hollen-Demo Escaliert" - the hellish-demo escalates! By now we are looking to get out of town in one piece.<br>
Depart digs at 06:45 and walk to Stadthausbrucke S-Bahn. Two stops to Hbf, where we are denied entry to the empty DB First Class Lounge with our Eurail Pass. (Once again some First Class passengers are more important than others. We have reserved First Class seats, which DB failed to provide. Our train does not arrive. We travel second class on another delayed train and have to queue for half-an-hour in Berlin to reclaim our reservation fee. On this day of all days DB utterly failed to rise to the occasion. Their concept of customer service is out of the dark ages. This is not a one-off - we experienced delays and indifferent service in 2015.)<br>
Breakfast at <i>Kamps Backstube</i> - "Backerei trifft Leckerei!" - on the terrasse at the Station: €11:40. We nearly bump into a squad of armed police in "Star Wars" outfits. We wait for 08:51 Hamburg to Berlin, Wagen 262, Platz 54, 56. Announcement: "Train delayed due to Police Investigations."<br>
Eventually we switch trains - Dep 09:30 ICE (originally the 07:38). Ride in nearly empty 2nd class carriage. (Chatting to Monika, who recommends Hotel Metropole, Brussels.) Stops at Ludwigslust, Wittenberge (DB Werke Wittenberge), Berlin-Spandau (arr 11:03). €3 coffee on train. 76 minutes delayed. Queue for refund first class booking fee €11.30. S-Bahn to hotel, one stop to Bellevue - check in at 12:35: AMERON Hotel Abion Spreebogen, Alt-Moabit 99, Mitte, Berlin 10559.<br>
Lunch at <i>Paulaner Im Spreebogen</i>, Alt-Moabit 98, including Salat Pfifferlinge, €27.40.<br>
To school <i>Grundschule am Barbarossa Platz</i>, via U-bahn. Walk to Hansaplatz, U9 to Berliner Strasse then U7 to Eisenacherstrasse. Jenny, the schoolteacher, says: "Leipzig and Dresden are rivals; Leipzig is left-leaning and proud of its part in the revolution. I suggest a visit to St Nicholas church, the centre of the revolution. Dresden has the better architecture but is more conservative."<br>
Shopping at Rewe City, Bartningallee 3, (Hansaplatz) €9.56 (snacks, wine etc).<br>
<b>SAMSTAG 8 Juli</b><br>
At trendy <i>Konditorie G Buchwald</i>, Bartningallee 29, 10557 Berlin, for breakfast outdoors €18.00, sharing the space with sparrows.<br>
Sign: "Hansaviertel Internationale Bananstellung 1957 und Erganzurgen" - 60 year annniversary of Interbau IBA, an international architectural competition to rebuild the Hansaviertel district following destruction in WW2.<br>
We take the S-Bahn to Westkreuz, changing onto the S41, one stop to Messe Nord/ICC, in search of the Avus Motel/racing circuit, which we find fairly quickly near the Messegelände. The motel and a grandstand survive (managed by Avus Tribune Gmbh). We take coffee/tea at the Avus Motel, Halenseestraße 51, in the delightful round tower: €5.80. There are photos of racing cars, including the Opel 2 Rocket Car, on the table tops.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1gyH4SaOTkDGurdNnlHMaRTZQEd7qQ4AdnX2J5MA9dlODbQT3pmrgBPCyDoTeZCEDDhUHruDxDdWV0iaZZQsEU-bdUZlmKxM2oyI3VQ1eFAqhvdCjjfdeXuvreiljVMAno1B7/s1600/DSCN3675.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1gyH4SaOTkDGurdNnlHMaRTZQEd7qQ4AdnX2J5MA9dlODbQT3pmrgBPCyDoTeZCEDDhUHruDxDdWV0iaZZQsEU-bdUZlmKxM2oyI3VQ1eFAqhvdCjjfdeXuvreiljVMAno1B7/s320/DSCN3675.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
Graffiti: "Merkel Muss Weg!" Is this the writing on the wall?<br>
Walk to Messe Sud for S-Bahn to Spandau, S5. To the mall Spandau Arcaden, purchase Clack Keramikei Hase €29.30 (a novelty item for opening boiled eggs), 2 x egg cups €5.90 at Cookmal! €29.80 total.<br>
Walk to Alt Stadt, promenade in old town. Encounter Woolworth store. We decide to lunch at <i>Satt & Selig Steakeria</i>, Carl-Schurtz-Strasse 47, 13597 Berlin. The service is so bad that we get up and leave. Spandau turned out to be rather charmless.<br>
Take train at Rathaus Spandau on U7 to Wilmersdorfstrasse, then S7 to the Tiergarten. We look round the Trödelmarkt (bric-a-brac): I particularly wanted to buy Gedore and Hazet wrenches – German brands coveted in NA, on par with Snap-on. We weren’t planning to check luggage so I passed.<br>
We bought cheese sandwiches at the Tier Garten, €5.60, and walked through the Hanseviertel to a picnic on a park bench.<br>
Photograph Simson Schwalbe scooter (1964-1986, built at Suhl).<br>
Return to hotel, then S-Bahn to Tiergarten, arrive 19:35. To secluded <i>Restaurantkniepe Giraffe</i>, Klopstockstrasse 2, 10557 Berlin (spotted earlier) - baked potato & chicken, veggie tart, Berliner Pilsner Bier, Iced Tea, €25.30, €30 with tip. Great value, recommended. S-Bahn back to hotel.<br>
<b>SONNTAG 9 Juli</b><br>
S75 to Friedrichstrasse, U6 to Kochstrasse, breakfast at <i>Kamps Backstube</i>, 41 Friedrichstrasse, (opposite Starbucks): 2 brie baguettes and 2 enormous coffee, €10.60.<br>
To Mauermuseum Haus Am Checkpoint Charlie, admit two €29.00: "Mauer Muss Weg!" The escapers tried every trick in the book to get out! Recommended - get there early, allow plenty of time.<br>
Film: "Das Wunder von Berlin" ("The Miracle of Berlin") made in 2008 for TV, set in 1989 etc.<br>
Mass tourism: tourists posing at Checkpoint Charlie with pretend US soldiers - "starts in tragedy, ends in farce."<br>
Walk to Hallesches Tor U-Bahn, ride to Kurfurstenstrasse, wrong slot! We lunch at <i>Coffee Deli "Queen of Muffins"</i> Pohlstraße 65: Salad with quinoa, edamame and avocado, Cranberry Chicken Sandwich, Fresh mint and English Breakfast Tea, €15.00.<br>
Then take U-Bahn to Kurfurstendam, walk to Käthe Kollwitz Museum, Fasanenstrasse 24, regular admission €7.00 each. A garden oasis in the big city. (Her house in Berlin was on Wörther Platz, destroyed in an air raid 1943, now Kollwitzplatz.) Nearest U-Bahn to the museum turns out to be Uhland Strasse.<br>
Julius Elias was the first to draw attention to Kollwitz in 1893. The Prussian Akademy of Arts forced Kollwitz to resign in 1933, when she was prohibited from exhibiting by the Nazis.<br>
Walk to S-Bahn at Savignyplatz, back to hotel.<br>
TV series "Der Gleiche Himmell" (The Same Sky) - Berlin Wall Story. "It was all built on lies!" Story lines: DDR spy seductions and murder, sports doping, tunnel and hang-glider would-be escapers.<br>
Dinner at <i>Lanniger Restaurant</i> in hotel, summer menu: Matjes mit Almbluten €13.00, Roasted Poussin €22.00, bottle of mineral water €7.50, plus €5.00 tip, spendy at €47.50.<br>
<b>MONTAG 10 Juli</b><br>
Depart hotel 07:00, S-Bahn to Hauptbahnhof, arrive 7:15. (Hotel staff report the Abion is due for refurbishment.) Frühstück: <i>Heberer's Traditional Bakery</i> (joined with Spar Store): Joghurt, Pastries, Coffee, €11.30.<br>
08:15 train to Dessau, RE7, Gleis 13. Through forest and heathland to Dessau on the Elbe River. Bicycles on train, among them a ladies pink <i>Sachs-dreigang</i> mixte, Brompton. Stops: Zoologischer Garten, Berlin-Charlottenberg, Wannsee, Potsdam-Medienstadt-Babelsberg, Potsdam-Rehbrucke, Wilhelmshorst, Michendorf, Seddin, Beelitz-Heilstatten, Borkheide, Bruck (Mark), Baitz, Bad Belzig, Weisenburg (Mark), Jeber-Bergfrieden, Roßlau (Elbe), Dessau Hbf.<br>
Walk to Stiftung Bauhaus Dessau, Gropiusallee 38, 06846 Dessau-Roßlau. €7.50 x 2.<br>
Walter Gropius (1883-1969) materials/methods: factory assembly, use of light, glass block walls, garden plots, stress on self-sufficency, influence of Marxism. Masters' houses: Gropius' house destroyed during WW2, replica there today. Junkers works at Dessau sold heating systems, airplanes.<br>
1932 Bauhaus school closed by the Nazis. There was a Kulturkampf. In a totalitarian state only one style of architecture was acceptable. The Nazi architecture was monumental and imposing. But half a decade of the Bauhaus changed the face of the city of Dessau.<br>
The Bauhaus movement was previously in Weimar (Thuringia) for six years, left in 1925. (There is a Bauhaus museum now in Weimar.) Staatliches Bauhaus Dessau 1926-1932. Bauhaus moved to Berlin 1932 and closed down 20 July 1933. Bauhaus personnel scattered - Mies Van der Rohe to Chicago - see <a href="http://punchbuggy.blogspot.ca/2005/10/chi-town-hustling-off-to-chicago-on.html"><i>PunchBuggy Passim</i></a>.<br>
We see the iconic Bauhaus B3 tubular chair. Book: "Ornament is Crime!<br>
At Dessau Hbf we bought egg rolls at <i>Steinecke Brotmeisterei</i>, had a picnic on a bench. On the other side of the station we take Tram #3 to Junkers Park and back. Tageskarte €5.00.<br>
14:06 S2 dep Dessau dir Leipzig-Connewitz - finally in first class. Stopped at Dessau-Sud, Marke, Raguhn, Jessnitz (Anh), Wolfen, Greppin, Bitterfeld, Petersroda, Delitsch und BF, Zschortau, Rackwitz, Leipzig-Messe, Leipzig-Nord, Leipzig-Hbf tief.<br>
Couldn't find the hotel, needed a snooze. Check in at the splendid: Steigenberger Grandhotel Handelshof Leipzig, Salzgäßchen 6, Mitte, 04109 Leipzig.<br>
Supper at <i>Rizzi</i> (pizzeria, spaghettieria, cafeteria), Katharinen Strasse 2: Spaghetti Aglio Olio €6.90, Spaghetti Ricotta €7.95, Bier Ur-Krostitzer Fin Herbs Pilsner half litre €3.90, Fresh peppermint tea €2.20.
After dinner, walk round town. Beer in bar in "enclosed courtyard" at the hotel. "No name" island bar: Radeberger Pilsner vom Fass €5.50. The bar is a mess - needs to illuminate the bottles to sell more liquor. Red and stainless steel at the back clashes with oldtimer theme. The entrance is not enticing - you cannot see the bar from the foyer. Three beers, €16.50 - Brasserie le Grand.<br>
<b>DIENSTAG 11 Juli</b><br>
Walk to <i>Schnell & Sauber</i>, Dresdener Strasse 2: a launderette past the ring road. We are stuck for coins, but Annette heroically rounds up breakfast from Netto - 4 croissant, two coffee €8.20; 2 yogurt & 1 Orange Juice €1.37 (two purchases to maximise change). Laundry also €8.20. We take the #7 tram €1.80 x 2 back to the Hbf.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRdQkbq-6uUDoBeSWjNJCT6MkcH8gf2omr0hxMuEn4-QtgEY3Zhux_hfzr1vQCbQgGWgj7A8sQ-HDkzoaTZWj7QyLdKlxuAtI11Df0nUopu-1ozelcepPgX1mDdLMJhqS22oin/s1600/DSCN3749.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRdQkbq-6uUDoBeSWjNJCT6MkcH8gf2omr0hxMuEn4-QtgEY3Zhux_hfzr1vQCbQgGWgj7A8sQ-HDkzoaTZWj7QyLdKlxuAtI11Df0nUopu-1ozelcepPgX1mDdLMJhqS22oin/s320/DSCN3749.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
We learn that the BMW electric car is made in Leipzig, (Porsche also have a factory here).<br>
We walk back to the hotel, then to Stasi Museum at the old HQ at "Runden Ecke." All the brutality and banality a staggering effort: cell blocks, filming, photography, mail opened, shredding machines, cassette tapes, miniature cameras etc, etc.<br>
Lunch at <i>Barfusz Cafe-Restaurant-Bar</i>, Markt 9, Leipzig: Grune Erbensuppe €4.90, Tomatensuppe €3.90, Ziegeu Kase cheese sandwich, peppermint tea €2.50. Sketchy service in tourist quarter.<br>
To free coffee museum: Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum, Kleine Fleischergasse 4, 04109 Leipzig. Artifacts: KAFFEE HAG decaffeinated coffee poster, Ludwig Roselius developed decaf in the early 20th century in Bremen; player pianos in Leipzig coffee houses; Dorag coffee machine, Berlin; Melitta Bentz from Dresden invented coffee filter paper in 1908, company now in Minden (since 1929). Recommended.<br>
Charger for camera battery €30.00. To travel centre to purchase Sachsen-ticket for Leipzig-Colditz-Dresden travel day; money from Deutsche Bank, Augustusplatz 14, Leipzig.<br>
<i>Hans Im Glück</i> (chain, Hamburger joint reinvented), Augustusplatz 14, for supper. Reception: good; ordering: good, menus on table; ambiance: funky tree decor, music but not conversation destroying; beer: 0.5l €3.90 x 2; tafelwasser: 0.5l €2.90; beer and food came quickly. Omas Geheimnis Schokoladenkuchen, Vanilleeis & Sahne, €5.00. Total €34.70, €40 incl tip.<br>
Street bands outside <i>Galleria Kaufhof</i>, Neumarkt 1: <i>Brazz Banditen</i>, 9-piece brass band (pink hair, no connection to Fager they said). Great Leipzig vibe: a city at ease with itself: Aha "Take on Me"; Britney Spears "Toxic" etc. Duo on guitar/ukelele "The Renegades", singer being from Manchester, Matthew Kerr.<br>
All the while bicycles are whizzing past. A local yells "Achtung!" as he throws litter in a bin close by.<br>
<b>MITTWOCH 12 Juli</b><br>
Leipzig is famous for coffee culture so we visit <i>Kaffeehaus Riquet</i>, Schumachergasschen 1, for breakfast (near the hotel). Wiener Frühstück €5.10, Französiches Frühstück €6.60, with coffee x 2 €17.10, including tip €20. Advertisement: "JJ Darboven seit 1866."<br>
Walking tour of the 1989 sign-posted revolution sites/sights including the ring road, partly Goerdelerring. The revolution gained momentum as more and folk paraded round the ring road on Mondays. They feared retaliation at the Stasi HQ and the Hauptbahnhof.<br>
Lunch at <i>Emil & Moritz</i> - Feine Schnitzelwirtschaft, Brühl 1, Schweineschnitzel Zweibel €6.90, Brottasche Gegrikkter Lachs €9.90, Apfelsaft. €26.90, €30.00 incl tip.<br>
N'Ostalgie museum, Nikolaistrasse, 28-32, €6.50 x 2. GDR artifacts: Simson SR1 made from 1955-1957, the first DDR moped; Simson SR2 1957-1959; Export model SR2E from 1959, available in the DDR in 1960; KR50, Simson Spatz, Star, Mofa 1 (VEB - Simson - Suhl). VEB Minol was the state oil company. Brandenburg moped had a MAW motor. Scooters: IWL, Troll 1. MZ motor cycles (Zschopau).<br>
Tour de France on TV. Trip to McPaper, Grimmaische Strasse 14, Schreiblernstift HB x 2 (pencils) €3.38; Lidl, Peterstraße 36/44, for supplies: €8.69. Bar in hotel.<br>
<b>DONNERSTAG 13 Juli</b><br>
Check out, walk to the magnificent Hauptbahnhof, #4208 luggage locker €3.00. Breakfast at <i>Erntebrot</i> at Hbf €9.65. Mitteldeutsche RegioBahn 09:06 MRB train RB 110, direction Dobeln, change at Grimma. Using a Sachsen-Ticket €32.00 for two (unlimited travel in Saxony for 24 hours).<br>
Stops: Sellerhausen, Paunsdorf, Leipzig-Engelsdorf, Borsdorf, Beucha, Naunhof, Grossteinburg, Grimma (station in a bad state). Change to Bus 619, bus stop #1 (Mercedes Benz bus, splendid, nearly empty). Saw Trabi wagon at Grossboten, later another Trabi and Simson. At Colditz: Simson posters, spares in shop window.<br>
Colditz Castle entry €4.00 x 2: the view from the castle provides a panoramic view of the town, which must have taunted the inmates. The Allied prisoners suffered here during WW2. Worse befell slave labourers in the surrounding district. We walk to Colditz railway station and freight shed, retracing the steps of the prisoners arriving in the town. The railway line is now defunct.<br>
After picnic lunch in the bus-shelter, we see three storks in a nest and an eagle, spotted from 619 bus on return to Grimma from Colditz. 619 bus morphs into 690 bus at Grimma, goes straight to Leipzig Hbf. We pass The Monument to the Battle of the Nations (Das Völkerschlachtdenkmal) in the bus in Leipzig.<br>
Rapid retrieval of luggage from locker, then RE50 train depart Leipzig Hbf 14:00. Stops: Leipzig- Engelsdorf, Borsdorf, Wurzen, Kuhren, Dahlen, Oschatz, Reisa, Glaubitz, Nunchritz, Priestewitz, Niederau, Weinbohla, Coswig, Radebeul-Ost (Museumsbahn, Lößnitzgrundbahn - we rode the steam train on a previous visit), Dresden-Neustadt, Dresden-Mitte, Dresden Hbf.<br>
Tram #3, then #4. Painless check in to Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe, Neumarkt 9, 01067 Dresden. Then #4 tram across the Elbe river, getting out of "tourist town" for dinnner at <i>Nordsee</i>, Haupt Strasse, counter service, no tip required, grilled salmon, veg, rosemary potatoes, peach iced tea, 0.25l of wine €30.05.<br>
Wine Festival, Haupt Strasse, Kitzer Reisling €4.50 plus €1.00 deposit on the glass. Three piece band playing US oldies "Bad Moon Rising", "Take it Easy", "Twist and Shout" etc.<br>
<b>FREITAG 14 Juli</b><br>
Dresden: Alfresco Frühstück at <i>Edelweiss Alpen Restaurant</i>, An der Frauenkirche 7. A hokey Swiss restaurant: scrambled egg €5.90, Bircher Muesli €4.90, two large coffee, total €19.60, including tip €25.00.<br>
Sitting on ramparts (terrassenurfer) of Festung Dresden, watching trams (strassenbahn), trains, passenger boats (with steam whistle), Augustusbrücke, Carolabrücke bridges.
Second visit to Verkehrsmuseum, Dresden, Augustusstraße 1, (transport museum). Exhibits:<br>
Trabant P601, Wartburg 355: "these two vehicles were the mainstays of the DDR car industry".<br>
AWZ P70 - 1956 (made 1955-1959, first duroplast car).<br>
EMW 340/2 (Eisenach Motoren Werke) - 1952.<br>
IFA F 9 TYP 309/1 - 1955, made in the Audi plant, Zwickau.<br>
Möve modell 15 - 1956 (1954-1959 VEB Möve-Werk Mulhausen. Plants also in Sangerhausen, Chemnitz.)<br>
IWL SR 56 Wiesel - 1958 (Ludwigsfelde IWL = VEB Industriewerke Ludwigsfelde)<br>
Simson SL 1 S - 1971<br>
Simson Mofa 1, ceased 1972<br>
IWL TR 150 Troll 1 scooter - 1963<br>
Simson KR51 Schwalbe - 1967. The first of the "bird" series which ran from 1964-1986. Waiting times up to 5 years.<br>
Mifa Universal model 510 - 1984 bicycle<br>
Mifa model 903/1 -1981 folding bicycle<br>
Diament bicyles (taken over by Trek 2002), Multicar commercial vehicles - surviving companies.<br>
Goliath pioneer 1931 three-wheeler<br>
Phanomen Bob 30 - 1939 motorcycle<br>
Hanomag 2/10 PS - 1925 (central headlight)<br>
BMW i3 eDrive - range 160 km<br>
Special exhibition: MZ Trophys & Trophäen, MZ-Motorräder aus Sachsen 1952-2005<br>
MZ = Motorradfabrik Zschopau (near Chemnitz)<br>
MZ-VEB Motorradwerk Zschopau MZRT 125/3 Pitty and Wiesel Mopeds<br>
RT125/4 - 1963-1965 Export only<br>
1945 - factory shipped to USSR<br>
1991 - bankrupt<br>
1992 - MUZ founded, four-stoke Rotax motor<br>
2008 - closed. Attempts to revive MZ 2009-2013 failed.<br>
MZ trophy model T, DKW connection "das kleine wunder".
Annette to the Albertinum, Tzchirnerplatz 2, €10.00.<br>
Main floor "Sculpture Hall" from Rodin to present, Second Floor "New Masters Gallery" art from Romanticism to the present. Free audio guide in choice of languages. Local artists - Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Hermann Glockner, and Otto Dix.<br>
We went for a walk to the Kreuzkirche Lutheran church, Kreuz Strasse. Woolworth, Prager Strasse 2, for 3 x drinks, souvenir bag €3.88 - "Woolworth Seit 1879" with Michael Jackson muzak. To Rewe, Prager Stasse 1, (grocery), "Vegan und Vegetarisch " section. Cheap.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPHT3T51lqwO7IvCUWFFm3uEF7Hhz9qcHXudd6Qm0bV-bCpq-LcBcZAcd4cnkaMJCioIjMtUVvRmp5mhh8Srf0I9mDpOQDtGQ-rOSObF5NNV8oW4Tvm3WoLFJzVXEL17I9awB/s1600/DSCN3808.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQPHT3T51lqwO7IvCUWFFm3uEF7Hhz9qcHXudd6Qm0bV-bCpq-LcBcZAcd4cnkaMJCioIjMtUVvRmp5mhh8Srf0I9mDpOQDtGQ-rOSObF5NNV8oW4Tvm3WoLFJzVXEL17I9awB/s320/DSCN3808.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT</small><br>
Prager Strasse: Old Time Marxists x 2 waving Soviet flag and distributing "Junge Welte" Communist newspaper etc.<br>
Hotel: watching Friday F1 from Silverstone, Tour de France.<br>
Supper at <i>Hans Im Glück</i>, Alt Markt 24, €29.80 including tip, Veggie Burgers, lemonade. <i>Konsom express</i>, Neumarkt 7, icecream x 2, €5.00, then Terrassenurfer. A punk rock band is playing on the far bank of the river but all we can see is the back of the stage.<br>
<b>SONNTAG 15 Juli</b><br>
Walk via Kreutzstrasse to breakfast at <i>Schwerdtners</i>, Prager Strasse, Backer Seit 1937, €15.00 incl tip, good value.<br>
Dresden Hbf depart 09:08 on time for Prague, carriage 263 České dráhy 1st class, národní dopravce.<br>
Bad Schandau dep 09:38, following the valley of the Elbe. Train uncrowded through scenic gorge. Tip: sit on left Dresden to Praha.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-10336022593541292952017-07-27T13:24:00.004-04:002017-07-27T13:56:16.781-04:00Skoda Museum a complete PITAWe travelled all the way from Canada to visit the Skoda Muzeum in Mladá Boleslav, Czechia, on Monday 17 July 2017.<br />
A spokesman for the Skoda Museum said (loose translation):<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
"We are closed for the day - only VIPs allowed. (Only robots in a suit permitted.) We don't act responsibly, we will shut the museum as we please without warning. I don't care how far you have travelled. You cannot come in here. You are an <i>untermensch</i>! Get lost!<br />
"At Škoda we hanker for the good old totalitarian days - if anybody had the cheek to complain back then they would get a visit from the StB. We had all the socialist big-wigs visiting the factory, and nobody dared say a word if we shut down the museum without any notice.<br />
"Our German bosses feel much the same way, after all they took over the Skoda works in 1939 without an invitation!"</blockquote>
Travel tip: The Skoda Museum is surely the most unfriendly attraction in the Czech Republic. Best avoided.<br />
We found Mladá Boleslav to be a craptown with atrocious hotels. The trains weren't running while we were there. Best feature: the bus to Prague, good value, rapid departure.<br />
If you wish to see Skoda vehicles while in Czechia I suggest you look elsewhere:<br />
<br />
* NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM, Kostelní 1320/42, 170 78 Praha 7, Czechia.<br />
<br>
* AUTO MOTO MUZEUM - OLDTIMER, Štefánikova 220/24, 742 21 Kopřivnice, Czechia.<br />
<br />
Both the above are recommended. Some Skoda vehicles are also on display at Vaclav Havel Airport, Prague.<br>
<br>
See also <a href="https://punchbuggy.blogspot.ca/2012/07/microcar-museum-complete-pita.html"><i>PunchBuggy Passim</i></a>.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-7064481027395506622017-06-26T11:20:00.000-04:002017-06-26T16:39:44.200-04:00Eight States Tour<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacx6XJ_agwZddeyIDAvLmukxDRmARmXtZdXRKTtim_bvqhSx-dq9Fjp3ceSErnp_-gmdvgo6kH8kzmy-s7Ob6gAJjJs7fRdEToTL5LqAHyPe4N5tNPb_8i1a_oeatI3yXcELh/s1600/Ludington_1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiacx6XJ_agwZddeyIDAvLmukxDRmARmXtZdXRKTtim_bvqhSx-dq9Fjp3ceSErnp_-gmdvgo6kH8kzmy-s7Ob6gAJjJs7fRdEToTL5LqAHyPe4N5tNPb_8i1a_oeatI3yXcELh/s320/Ludington_1.jpeg" width="320" height="187" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="936" /></a><br>
<small>Ludington, MI. Pic by RB.</small><br>
<b>Thurs 18 May:</b><br>
Richard and Jack to Toronto: Air Transat Flight TS323, Club Class, LGW to YYZ Toronto. Depart 12.00, Arrive 15.03. Great service on plane, plenty of drinkies, cute diminutive cruet set to take home.<br>
I pick up hire car at 14:22 from Enterprise Rent A Car, 859 The Queensway, Etobicoke, ON, M8Z 1N8: White Chevrolet Malibu, registration BZAN 523, reliable and suitable with capacious trunk, a bland inoffensive vehicle from "Government Motors" with poor rear visibility.<br>
Pick-up Richard and Jack at airport, drive to Inverness B&B, 287 Humberside Ave, Toronto, M6P 1L4, Ontario. Tel: 416 769 2028. Evening at The Station, 2457 Bloor St W, Toronto, ON M6S 1P7. Mill Street Organic lager, 4.2%. 90F degrees and muggy. Richard and Jack note that, in Bloor West, many signs reading "Say no to double density." (Creeping condos unlikely to be stopped though.)<br>
<b>Fri 19 May:</b><br>
Leave Toronto 06.55 a.m. for Ludington, MI. Heading west, 08:28 took gas off-highway at Pioneer Energy, 151 King George Road, Brantford, ON: $71.50.<br>
09:00 breakfast at 230 Truck Stop, 535 Mill Street, Woodstock, ON, $46.75 plus tip. (What has become a traditional stop when heading out on a road trip.)<br>
Enter USA at Port Huron, across the Blue Water Bridge over the St. Clair River, arriving 11:30, departing border post at 12:00. A result.<br>
Pitstop at tourist information for state map, then Tim Horton's, 8099 Gratiot Road, Saginaw, MI. (Tim Hortons don't use the apostrophe, but I do.) Old Tractors for sale on the road to Marlette. Many houses are mobile homes. Then via Route 66 (different one) from Six Lakes, then Hwy 10 after Barrytown, passing through Nirvana, to arrive at Comfort Inn, 5323 West US Highway 10, Ludington, MI, 49431, before 18:00. $118.66 per room.<br>
I did all the driving on day one, fairly tired on arrival. After scouting near hotel take taxi to town and bars. Supper at ersatz Sportsman's Irish Pub, later watching <i>Delilah Dewylde and the Lost Boys</i>. Then nearby Michael's Bar & Grille. Richard provided assistance to a girl chalking up band details for the next night.<br>
<b>Sat 20 May:</b><br>
Dep hotel 07:00. Stop for photo-shoot on East Ludington Avenue in town.<br>
09:00 car ferry S.S. Badger, Ludington to Manitowoc, WI, across Lake Michigan. Last coal-fired steam-powered passenger vessel in the U.S. Twin-axle Squarestream loaded in reverse. Fairly calm four-hour crossing with tailwind, arrive 12:00 approx with time change. During sailing sat in empty saloon as staff bedded in on the second day of the season. Mexican wrap for lunch. (Bingo onboard.)<br>
First sighting of <i>Piggly Wiggly</i> at Manitowoc.<br>
Fuel at <i>Mills Fleet Farm Gas Mart</i>, Denmark, WI: $25.25. Map $5.99 plus tax. Also tyre pressure gauge $3.10, addressed rear low tyre pressure warning possibly due to 'bump' on car ferry.<br>
To <i>The Attic Books and Coffee</i>, 730 Bodart Street, Green Bay. US10 after Waupaca, through Custer, (not the last one seen), Hwy 10, Subway at 6018 Main Street, Auburndale, WI 54412: $18.28. Final approach on Hwy 12.
Hotel booked whilst on ferry, press on to: Super 8 Eau Claire WI, 1151 West Mac Arthur, Eau Claire, WI 54701. Rooms $95.34 incl tax. Suitable.<br>
Walk to supper at <i>Green Mill</i>, 2703 Craig Rd., Eau Claire, WI 54701. Drinks at the bar, then table service where staff are curiously anxious to get everybody to vacate. Restaurant bill $70.63 plus tip. (Venue holding many graduation parties.)<br>
<b>Sun 21 May:</b><br>
To Duluth, MN. Dep 07:25, then 09:20 Subway, 1201 Elm Street, Cumberland, WI 54829, for breakfast, $23.15. Hwy 12 to Elk Mound, 40 to Colfax, 170 to Wheeler.<br>
Hwy 63 at Turtle Lake (first reference to Turtle Fence). 53 divided-highway from Spooner. McDonald's, 2115 E 2nd St, Superior, WI, for coffee and wi-fi. Cold and wet.<br>
First photo-shoot at aerial lift bridge, Duluth, a Transporter Bridge until 1929. Major tour objective achieved.<br>
Duluth is the largest freshwater port in the world. Retreat into Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center to get warm, where Richard purchases book re transporter bridge. Attributed to Mark Twain, probably apocryphally: "The coldest winter I ever spent was a summer in Duluth." But stuck due to its validity.<br>
Lunch at <i>Grandma's Saloon & Bar</i>, 522 S Lake Ave, Duluth, MN 55802. They have their own brand of ketchup - nobody knew where it was manufactured beyond "Made in the USA." I am trying to find out.<br>
To <i>Lake Superior Railroad Museum</i>, 506 W Michigan Street, Duluth. Difficulty finding parking, and then paying for it, turns out to be free on a Sunday.<br>
Just in time to catch 15:00 excursion train on <i>North Shore Scenic Railroad</i> for 90-minute round trip. Sit in largely-empty unheated carriage away from the crowd. Lake Superior Kayak beers on train.<br>
Quick tour round museum on return. Lincoln's Funeral Carriage. Giant steam engine from Missabe range, #227. Articulated loco that could haul 18,000 Tons. (Rupert points out the stupidity of Hitler thinking he could take on the USA.) Could easily have spent several more hours at the museum.<br>
Overnight at Duluth MN. <i>Holiday Inn & Suites</i>, 200 West First Street, Duluth, MN 55802. Sneaker's Sports Bar & Grill, part of the hotel, was rather down home but had no hot dogs. Typical sports bar with intrusive TV screens. and a quiet but bitter argument breaks out between the beer-pouring barmaid, and the barman who circulates among customers, as to who should have taken our order when we wanted to order food.<br>
<b>Mon 22 May:</b><br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRSYeEauNjfz2U_g42GD33bRcIlrNfsSyYs6H1r7jK89R1u3rJW2fXqetiMqj8HXK2iCv2bAAyIGzgwmDfBbmEX1SKAM7QHzrDgbuL8PoVDf-ISqgvEKdIj21D8NBn4TApDwny/s1600/DSCN3431.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRSYeEauNjfz2U_g42GD33bRcIlrNfsSyYs6H1r7jK89R1u3rJW2fXqetiMqj8HXK2iCv2bAAyIGzgwmDfBbmEX1SKAM7QHzrDgbuL8PoVDf-ISqgvEKdIj21D8NBn4TApDwny/s320/DSCN3431.JPG" width="240" height="320" data-original-width="1200" data-original-height="1600" /></a><br>
<small>Duluth, MN. Pic by RLT.</small><br>
Breakfast at hotel in Duluth, where waiter reveals the hotel was due to close for refurbishment. Second photo-shoot at Transporter Bridge with marginally better weather. Leave Duluth for Oshkosh, WI, original home of the trendy baby dungarees.<br>
Via Hwy 2, take fuel at Mobil, 9670 E US-2 CR-D, Poplar, WI 54864. Through Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest. <i>Bear Crossing</i>, 107 E Broadway St, Glidden, WI 54527 for lunch supplies. Second breakfast ordered through hatch. Hwy 13 through Butternut and Phillips.<br>
15:15 checked out strip mall at 2707 Schofield Ave, Schofield, WI 54476. Richard scored Skyscraper book for $5 at Goodwill, Rand McNally Road Atlas $9.99 plus tax at Target. Cuppa and wi-fi here. County Road J through Shantytown, deer crossing the road.<br>
Pitstop at Subway in gas station, Fremont, WI, Hwy 110, at 90 degree turn, last stop before Oshkosh.<br>
Overnight at AmericInn, 1495 W. South Park Avenue, Oshkosh, WI 54902. $222.48 incl taxes. Booked that morning via Booking.com. The car park is full of white pick-up trucks, belonging mainly to Latino gardeners/road crews.
Short walk to supper at <i>West End Pizza</i>, 1414 West 20th Avenue, Oshkosh, WI - cavernous shed, choice of beers, good service, opposite airport. $98.88 plus $15 tip.<br>
<b>Tues 23 May:</b><br>
To Chicago, IL. A picture of the Concorde plane in the hotel looks like it was at the nearby Oshkosh airfield, strangely dubbed Wittman Regional Airport. When you have a world-renowned name why not use it? The Concorde appeared on a number of occasions at the famous airshow.<br>
We make a stop at a Horicon thrift store, but it was not yet open. Through Slinger and Ridgefield. Gas at County Line BP, Colgate, WI 53017: $26.17.<br>
Pitstop at <i>Peiffer's Piggly Wiggly</i>, N81W15182 Appleton Ave, Menomonee Falls, WI 53051, including purchase of Andy's Seasoning Fish Breading, $2.19. The man packing our supplies studied English literature and is keen to talk to three Brits.<br>
Stop at Milwaukee Harley-Davidson Museum, $48 for three after $12 discount applied. Particularly enjoyed Topper scooter and H-D XA (Experimental Army), a BMW-inspired flat-twin shaft-drive motorcycle made for the US Army during WW2. The bikes on display are not restored, but in fine condition.<br>
Lunch in "Motor" Bar at the Museum, 401 West Canal, Milwaukee 53204 - Jacket potato, Burger, Salad, 2 beers and Sprecher Cream Soda - $64.51 plus $10 tip.<br>
Leave for Chicago, via Kenosha, Zion, Highland Park. Stop at Starbucks, 3300 W. Grand Avenue, Waukegan, IL 60085.<br>
Great run-in to Chicago from north through Skokie and Wilmette, then along lakeshore. Richard elected to drive. Jack impressed by view of city from lakeshore.<br>
2 nights Chicago: Essex Inn, 800 S. Michigan Avenue, Chicago, IL 60605. They had fouled up our booking and still could not find it after the reservation number was quoted. Eventually we made it indoors. The hotel has seen better days, and looks due to be demolished in a redevelopment. Restaurant and on-site parking already gone, one lift out-of-order. $47 for max 36 hours parking nearby.<br>
Walk to popular <i>Lou Malnati's</i>, 805 S. State Street, Chicago, IL 60605, with coupon from hotel, brushetta, 3 x deep-pan pizza, 3 x beer, $67.96. Enough for take-away snack next day.<br>
<b>Weds 24 May:</b><br>
Day in Chicago: walk to Studebaker/Fine Arts Building (an early tall building), Artists Café breakfast muffin, walk to Hector Guimard Metro entrance at Van Buren Metra station, start of Route 66 at Michigan and Adams, The Bean, Trump Tower, Lakeshore Drive double-decker bridge, then 10:00 a.m. Architectural River Cruise (Michigan Ave & Wacker Dr). Lunch at Corner Bakery, 360 North Michigan Ave, Chicago, IL 60601, $16.44, walk to Union Station (much refurbished since previous visits).<br>
12:44 Old Navy, 150 North State Street, Chicago, IL 60601: Jack bought socks, 2 pairs, $11.47 incl taxes.<br>
Rode 'The Loop' train to Chicago Architecture Foundation on Michigan Ave to view city model, which features annual updates using a 3-D printer. Discussion re Chicago Skyride, which operated 1933-1934 (though not a transporter bridge, claimed as such by the Americans). I purchased a tray with Chicago cta passenger rail map.<br>
After in-room snacks to Kitty O'Shea Bar at Hilton Hotel, lamentable service and small tip, retreated to Artists Café at Fine Arts Building.<br>
<b>Thurs 25 May:</b><br>
Out through south Chicago, direction Indy. Through Hegewische, Calumet, Lansing, IL.
08:40 pitstop for food/gas at <i>Dunkin' Donuts</i>, Dyer, IN, - at the state border with Illinois - avoiding high gas prices/taxes in Illinois. Sign in shop: "No Illinois taxes here." Old Lincoln Highway nearby. Encounter intoxicated driver on the road, Jack rightly cautious.<br>
To Lowell, IN, checking out the antique stores. Richard scores toy tin cash register, $15, from Hodge Podge Fine Furnishings, 307 E Commercial Ave, Lowell, IN 46356; Jack pink Chicago Bears shirt, as new $12, from Aunt Nae's Gifts Old & New, 250 E Commercial Ave, Lowell, IN 46356.<br>
Through Morocco, IN, to 11:48 McDonald's, 104 N 7th St, Kentland, IN 47951. Through Fowler to 14:12 Subway, 3605 Osborne Lane, Lafayette, IN 47909, $12.59. Across the flatlands along Hwy 47 through Lebanon. Back in Eastern Time Zone.<br>
4 nights at <i>Staybridge Suites</i>, 535 South West Street, Indianapolis, IN 46225. Top digs. Our host: Kate Burzynski, Guest Services Manager, Roadtrips: www.roadtrips.com<br>
Hoosier 100 for sprint cars in the evening at The Fairgrounds is cancelled due to earlier heavy rain. Disappointing, but learnt about Saturday night race in Anderson, IN. We make a rapid return to <i>Basey's Bar</i>, 419 S West St., Indianapolis, IN 46225. The bar owner Greg Basey lets slip that the former Indy F1-race was worth more to him financially than the Indy 500 and Brickyard 400 combined - folk stayed longer. His shtick is to insult his out-of-town customers. The novelty soon wears off.<br>
Called sissy-boys when Rupert makes his customary request for gnats (weak beer), and refuses to take the Budweiser Intestinal Challenge. (This becomes our self-deprecating nickname for the rest of the tour.) Elysian Space Dust beer 8.2%, and Jack had a 9% beer whose name he could not remember even shortly after drinking it. In conversation with a Kiwi Elfin-FJ owner and driver, Bruce Edgar, Rupe mentions a front-engined Elfin but Bruce declares that it cannot be - they were all rear-engined. A little research later at the hotel proves Rupert correct - of course!<br>
<b>Fri 26 May:</b><br>
In Indy: walk to Post Office and Lucas Oil Stadium. 10:17 Colts Pro Shop Store, 500 South Capitol Avenue, Indianapolis, IN 46225. Jack buys $50 Colts football shirt.<br>
Carburation Day at the track pretty average - only an hours practice, lots of yellow, plus 40-lap Indy Lights race. Not exactly hardcore. $20 parking, $30 entrance per head. Dismayed to find my ticket didn't cover this. They let me in then kicked me out again. They were obviously as confused as I was. The very small print at the bottom of the ticket told the story. You would need glasses to decode.<br>
Fernando Alonso fifth in final practice. Local opinion has it that he is an F1 sissy-boy, getting far too much publicity, who can't possibly win the 500. By the way James Hinchcliffe blew his motor in final practice.<br>
The Indy Lights "Freedom 100" race was won by Brazilian Matheus Leist who led all the way. Third was Canadian Dalton Kellett. Reba McEntire sang the "Star Spangled Banner" intro - son Shelby Blackstock was ninth in the Lights event.<br>
The concession stand ran out of beer. They insisted on checking my ID - political correctness gone mad - can't <i>The Donald</i> do something about it? Rescued somewhat by display of old Indycars and warm weather. We had tickets to Indy Hall of Fame (visited previously) but it was so crowded that I couldn't face it.<br>
Overall I wouldn't bother attending Carb Day again. Much ado about nothing.<br>
17:00 by hotel bus to Roadtrips Reception, Sheraton Hotel. Not many in attendance but good bunfight with beer and snacks. Bus back to Basey's Bar, bill $19.99. New barmaid Mila, from Belarus, coping well with bar-room nonsense from patrons.<br>
<b>Sat 27 May:</b><br>
In Indy: we decided not to go to the track, even though we had tickets for Keith Urban.
Watched Monaco quallie in private sitting room at the hotel on the big screen. I said "Great performance by Kimi - will Ferrari tell him to let Vettel thru?" Suffice it to say Vettel won on the Sunday.<br>
Walk to downtown Monument Circle for the parade. There are Jesus Freaks everywhere, promoting oddball brands of religion. Then to "Soupremacy," 7 E Market St, Indianapolis, IN 46204, a friendly coffee shop opposite the Hilton Garden Inn.<br>
10:00 The Circle Center, Carsons, 1 West Washington Street, Indianapolis, IN 46204. Jack bought some Levis, $42.<br>
Watching parade in the sunshine, which proceeds at a glacial pace. Vintage bicycles, Police Motorcycle Display Team, Marching band with "World's largest drum", Camaro pace cars, cheerleaders, horses etc.<br>
To Hilton Hotel to buy a copy of the <i>Indianapolis Star</i>. There were apologies on the PA re protestors - who could they mean?<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibt6TWPH5qN3kE05wZKvBi_qzBun3PKUYFJWuvN39r8d7D2FuGXZBF7_eGhuoJ9vz6P7KtIw9_ScdEeeeAqo4mCZDbbdN5Fc3WnVx78XU1NHWwT_tyPLR6b5wemrK4SFvOQB4A/s1600/DSCN3459.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibt6TWPH5qN3kE05wZKvBi_qzBun3PKUYFJWuvN39r8d7D2FuGXZBF7_eGhuoJ9vz6P7KtIw9_ScdEeeeAqo4mCZDbbdN5Fc3WnVx78XU1NHWwT_tyPLR6b5wemrK4SFvOQB4A/s320/DSCN3459.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Anderson, IN. Pic by RLT.</small><br>
Dep 16:00 for saturday night at the PAY LESS "Little 500" presented by UAW/GM, a sprint car race at Anderson, IN. 16:09 Speedway Indianapolis, 46225: gas $25.95 ($2.199 per gallon). Sprint cars feature 900 bhp V8 on quarter-mile asphalt oval. Winner was #5 Kyle Hamilton of Indianapolis. Former NASCAR champion Tony Stewart was third. Veteran Ken Schrader also in the field. The race was a sellout with capacity crowd. We had to stand on uneven pavement throughout. Accompanied by Bruce Edgar, the Kiwi FJ racer, due at Mosport later in June. Delayed departure as we'd lost Bruce. Woman complaining of migraine from our car headlamps, apparently not brought on by 33 roaring V8s.<br>
Anderson, IN, is an old GM town, which has lost many plants and jobs. On the way to Anderson I note a billboard promoting South Bend, IN: "An Urban Playground." I've been in every state of the union and never felt more frightened than in South Bend: "Where they close the cash machines at sundown" would be a more accurate slogan.<br>
<b>Sun 28 May:</b><br>
Indy 500 - police-escorted coach #2098 from Staybridge Suites to the race.<br>
Started watching Monaco G.P. in the hotel. Then satellite TV and Apple phone on the bus. The handheld filled in the gaps when we lost the satellite among the skyscrapers in Indy. Lengthy walk to Paddock Stand, high rows, opposite pits. Much confusion among race-goers about where to sit.<br>
Planes towing advertising banners overhead. Much hoopla before the start of the race. Mike Pence, VPOTUS, makes an appearance to warm applause - he is after all a Hoosier. There is a parade of old drivers: A.J. Foyt, Mario Andretti, Bobby Unser, Arie Luyendijk, Rick Mears, Johnny Rutherford, Kenny Brack, Dario Franchitti, Gil De Ferran, Bobby Rahal, Al Unser Jr.<br>
Scott Dixon, the pole-sitter, and Dario Franchitti had been robbed at gunpoint in a Taco Bell drive-through earlier in the week by two young punks, bringing unwelcome publicity all around the world. An Armed Forces parade proves they have forgotten how to march.<br>
Music by Jonathan Jackson + Enation, an indie rock band. They did not get a mention in the running order. (The Indy 500 is desparately trying to attract a younger audience before all the old geezers in the stands die out.)
Then numerous anthems, hymns, invocations etc. "Back home in Indiana." Finally the main event gets under way. An interesting race, with good information on placings and number of laps, until Dixon has a crash with Jay Howard on Lap 53, which looked bad but both walked away. This brought out the red flags.<br>
Alonso and Hunter-Reay both had a Honda engine grenade. Alonso, with rookie stripes on the back of his car, looked like he had been doing this all his life. Later picked up R-O-Y gong.<br>
In all there followed 50 laps of yellow at varying intervals, which added significantly to the time the race took to complete and frequently spoilt the excitement of the close running and overtaking. The loudspeakers encouraged the crowd to look forward to all the restarts - more than the race itself, it seemed. Max Chilton (4th) and Helio Castroneves (2nd) faded in the late going. Ed Jones was 3rd. Takuma Sato, with Honda engine intact, won the Indy 500.<br>
(A reflection on the race event demographics: Jack noted only 3 Afro-American people among the 350,000 crowd. One was on the stage singing, and two were VIPs in the pit-lane.)<br>
Basey's was occupied, but doors locked front and back and entry impossible, so anticlimactically we went to the <i>Holiday Inn</i> for a nondescript pasta and a few beers. The lone waitress, surprised to be serving at the only open bar in the neighbourhood, did very well but was run off her feet.<br>
<b>Mon 29 May:</b><br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xQFsYL2uRJyKTZdsq_9jsGUv4C5K3PKBaPtPT1LCae_gETMbsd0uZjWmMibsLbT66N2wixJypo5uKvxORLPYBfdAfnk5xXzFDl46bB3hGbMQkVNXiMiIgUymhUmfvX6zeOjG/s1600/DSCN3454.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xQFsYL2uRJyKTZdsq_9jsGUv4C5K3PKBaPtPT1LCae_gETMbsd0uZjWmMibsLbT66N2wixJypo5uKvxORLPYBfdAfnk5xXzFDl46bB3hGbMQkVNXiMiIgUymhUmfvX6zeOjG/s320/DSCN3454.JPG" width="320" height="240" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1200" /></a><br>
<small>Indianapolis, IN. Pic by RLT.</small><br>
Solo walk round the downtown. Great old buildings, motel, welding shop etc. To Eli Lilly HQ: "Research is to see what everyone else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought." - Albert Szent Györgyi.<br>
There are fresh bike paths everywhere. Indy has Pacers Bike Share, Blue Indy electric cars (part of an effort to make Indiana the electric-car state? Electric cars do not reduce congestion? Are these just fads?)
Why doesn't Indianapolis create a cycle-highway from downtown to the race track? They could incentivise race-goers to arrive by bicycle? Provide secure bicycle parking? Get some eco-kudos? Motor racing is often criticised for wasting gas - most of which is burned up by the spectators getting to and from the track and sitting in jams.<br>
New buildings - J.W. Marriot Hotel, Lucas Oil Stadium, Convention Center - evidence of renewal. Walked to the interesting new bus station, opened in 2016, along "The Franciscan Way" past the Monon County Jail. Many streets have alternative names for race drivers e.g. Alonso Ave. Much evidence of the town trying to re-invent itself, boasting 28m visitors annually. Still too many people sleeping rough and high anxiety using cash machines. The race also attracts religious crackpots.<br>
Second visit to "Soupremacy," Market Street, a friendly coffee shop opposite the Hilton Garden Inn.<br>
10:30 Leave Indy, heading south for Kentucky. 252 Hwy to Morgantown, IN. Richard buys vending machine at yard sale, $8.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZEtM0lmDKx0nho7HEPaz-As3pcheUoFyFy8RmchGGu5eKU7Osq2OaFd8RktRxIe17LSjr1uv5Y4J-ajIQrdsE4c8zu6-7koFF46jZBDIh70pMt2VUwOFwVcqWc-OhvpJD84fr/s1600/Monster_1.jpeg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZEtM0lmDKx0nho7HEPaz-As3pcheUoFyFy8RmchGGu5eKU7Osq2OaFd8RktRxIe17LSjr1uv5Y4J-ajIQrdsE4c8zu6-7koFF46jZBDIh70pMt2VUwOFwVcqWc-OhvpJD84fr/s320/Monster_1.jpeg" width="320" height="261" data-original-width="1600" data-original-height="1303" /></a><br>
<small>Martinsville, IN. Pic by RB.</small><br>
Back track to Martinsville, IN, Car Show. Firehouse Pub, 21 N Jefferson St, Martinsville, IN 46151. <i>Busted Knuckle</i> beer turned out to be rocket fuel, much too strong. The Campaign for Weak Beer suffered a severe setback. Richard and Jack tour car show. Hwy 37 past Bloomington. Now in karst country, place called Oolitic. Turtle crossed road - second reference to "Turtle Fence." Through Orleans and Paoli. Junk at Hardinsburg.
Corydon, IN - Purchase of Pyrex insulator, Snap-on socket, cheap tyre pressure gauges, Corydon Panthers Tee-Shirts. Mauckport, IN, then across Matthew E. Welsh Bridge over Ohio River.<br>
Overnight stop at Days Inn, 2010 N Mulberry St, Elizabethtown, KY 42701. Cheap and cheerful. Purchased beers from Etown Liquors next door.<br>
Supper at Texas Outlaw BBQ, Commerce Dr, Elizabethtown, KY 42701 (after walking-out at Ruby Tuesday). I enquired: "Are we in the south?" Answer: "Can't you tell. Everybody talks to you!" Verdict: Glad we switched.<br>
<b>Tues 30 May:</b><br>
Walking in downtown Elizabethtown we blunder into Bullmoose Brothers Bicycle shop (Bike Friday etc). Meet owner Adam Lobert. Walk to Vibe Coffee, 34 Public Square, Elizabethtown, KY 42701. Tea kindly provided by local networking club. Thanks!<br>
Swope's Cars of Yesteryear Museum, 1012 N Dixie Hwy, Elizabethtown, KY. Copy of letter, from Clyde Barrow to Henry Ford, commending the Ford motor car. Do not miss this free attraction.<br>
Into central time zone beyond Upton. Photo-shoot of concrete wigwams at Cave City, KY.<br>
National Corvette Museum, 350 Corvette Drive, Bowling Green, KY 42101. Lunch in café. Museum now makes much of famous sinkhole incident.<br>
16:07 T Mart, 625 North Main, Franklin, KY: Gas, $28.91. ($2.099 per gallon). 3 nights at Fairfield Inn & Suites Nashville Downtown/The Gulch, 901 Division Street, Nashville, TN 37203.<br>
Pub crawl on the lower Broadway: Legends Corner, Rippy's Smokin' Bar & Grill, Tootsies, Second Fiddle, Roberts Western World. The bouncers wanted to throw me out of Legends Corner for drinking out of a glass: "Nobody does that in here." They thought I had acquired it elsewhere! (You know you are not a redneck when you drink out of a glass!)<br>
Having said that Legends had the best music, most insults of the audience and, no coincidence, most alcohol drunk by the band. A hapless patron admitted to being Australian at which point the didgeridoo noises started.
Impressive "Won't Get Fooled Again" at Rippy's. Drank <i>Falls City Hipster-Repellant IPA</i>. Then Tootsies, Second Fiddle (Richard chatting to pedal-steel guitarist from Legends), and finally Roberts Western World. Taxi to hotel.<br>
<b>Weds 31 May was "Guitar Wednesday:"</b><br>
Visit to Gibson Custom Guitars went pear-shaped, so proceeded to Carter Vintage Guitars, 625 8TH Ave S, Nashville, TN. Early lunch at busy Arnold’s Country Kitchen. Then GIG museum at The Lila D. Bunch Library, (corner of 17th Avenue S and Acklen Avenue, near Beaumont Mansion), where we had a conversation with George Gruhn. On to George Gruhn Guitars shop and Antique Archaeology (<i>American Pickers</i> southern store), old Marathon Motor Works building.<br>
Early evening drinks at the bar in the historic Union Station hotel, 1001 Broadway, Nashville, TN 37203. Relaxing in splendid surroundings. Spendy. A charming but limited local financial-adviser enquired, "How far are you from that lake you go rowing on, is it in Germany? Turns out she meant Venice.<br>
<i>Station Inn</i> closed for private gig, so supper outdoors at The Pub, 400 11th Ave South, Nashville, TN 37203, in the Gulch (Calamari starter, salmon and rice etc).<br>
<b>Thurs 1 June:</b><br>
To <i>Lane Motor Museum</i>, 702 Murfreesboro Pike, Nashville, TN 37210. My third visit, helped by manager David Yando with research into Hobbs Transmission, Tatra, Wartburg and Jikov. Trip to basement, 250 more cars!
We tried to go to RCA Studio B on Music Row. No direct access so boys to Country Music Hall of Fame, but no Studio B bus side-trip due to museum snafu. Richard negotiated a 50% discount. Jack a return visit to Carter Vintage Guitars. Time out for me.<br>
Fairfield Inn & Suites Nashville rooftop bar at hotel, great if you like watching freight trains (which I do), but cheerful bar staff could not mask slow sketchy service. We headed for Otaku Ramen, 1104 Division St, Nashville, TN 37203, for supper. Good food, service and ambiance.<br>
<i>Station Inn</i>, 402 12th Ave South, Nashville, TN 37203 - Rachel Baiman, support Adam Chaffins, not really bluegrass but folk, too many slow dreary songs, best number the lively Do-Re-Mi (Woody Guthrie). Enough virtue-signalling! Time to go.<br>
<b>Fri 2 June:</b><br>
Leave early at 06:50. Retrace our steps to Bowling Green, KY, then second breakfast at <i>Waffle House</i>, 2026 N Mulberry St, Elizabethtown, KY 42701. To Bardstown, KY, then via Blue Grass Parkway to Lexington, I75 to Cincinnati and Dayton. Visit to National Museum of the United States Air Force, 6 miles NE of Dayton. Arrive 14:45, entry free. Checking out Douglas B26K aircraft, which served in the Congo in the early sixties. Very wide range of post-WW2 jet fighters.<br>
Overnight at Red Lion Inn & Suites, 6960 Miller Ln., Dayton, OH 45414. $84.91 x 3. Hooters for drinks, then supper at Max & Erma's, 6930 Miller Ln., Dayton, OH 45414. No cold beer, but suited us Brits fine. Best veggie burger of trip. Doing good take-out business.<br>
<b>Sat 3 June:</b><br>
Breakfast at hotel - best scrambled egg of the tour. Leave early for Dearborn. More yard sales. Some items scored free of charge.<br>
Turn off highway to Lima, OH, old steam-locomotive town, visit shop with Huffy bicycle for sale (made in Dayton, OH), Salvation Army sale: $2 suitcase, four 'T' shirts $1. Lima Museum closed but Shay engine #10 on display in window. Pitstop at nearby McDonald's Restaurant, 575 Market Street, Lima, OH 45801.<br>
Yard sales around Ottawa and Leipsic. 10:44 Walmart, 1720 North Perry Street, Ottawa, Ohio 45875. 11:57 Tim Horton's, 1508 Wooster Road, Bowling Green, OH 43402: $19.72.<br>
Past Toledo, drive on to Henry Ford Museum, Dearborn MI. Very helpful receptionist encouraging realism about what could be seen in the time available. Among the exhibits in Henry's giant toybox is Jim Clark's Indy-winning Lotus 38/1, the last remaining Dymaxion house in the world.<br>
Overnight at Hotel St Regis, 3071 West Grand Boulevard, Detroit MI 48202, situated in Midtown. Valet parking obligatory. La Musique Restaurant: bar bill $147.34. We learn that the first leg of the Detroit Grand Prix has been won by Graham Rahal.<br>
<b>Sun 4 June:</b><br>
To Toronto, quickly across the Ambassador Bridge and through the border to Tim Horton's for breakfast at 1875 Huron Church Rd, Windsor, ON N9C 2L6.<br>
We decide to avoid the highways and take the pretty way home through rural Ontario. Quilts on sides of barns aplenty. Further yard sales. Pitstop at Tim Horton's, 41 Park Ave E, Chatham, ON N7M 1V8.<br>
Late lunch at <i>Hicks Café</i>, 61 Ontario Rd, Mitchell, ON, nice to avoid the chains, friendly in an old historic building, stayed open just for us. Recommended.<br>
Jack and Richard to Inverness B&B, 287 Humberside Ave, Toronto, M6P 1L4, ON. Jack and Richard to Mackenzies: "very good food, decent service, diverse, too noisy."<br>
<b>Mon 5 June:</b><br>
Day In Toronto, drive to Sherway Gardens (Lunch at Szechuan Express, $52.87, Indigo, The Bay), hunt for Milani cosmetics at Rexall - "a drugstore brand." Canadian Tire, Lowes. Dark Horse pub in the evening.<br>
<b>Tues 6 June:</b><br>
Jack and Richard fettled B&B owner's Brompton bicycle and Pashley trike. Day in Toronto, drive to Cherry Beach, walk by the lake and then T&T Chinese Supermarket. Return hire car 13:02. Total 3165 miles (5094 km).
Dinner for four at Kenkou Sushi, 2370 Bloor Street West, Toronto, M6S 1P5, $122.04. Then Dark Horse pub.<br>
<b>Weds 7 June:</b><br>
Bike ride downtown, 20 miles approx. Two Bromptons and 'Goldie' Traveler bike. No bike issues. Lavazza Coffee house, Good Neighbour Espresso Bar for tea. Evening at <i>Yellow Griffin</i> pub, understaffed but trying hard, some items off menu, choice of beers, unhurried.<br>
<b>Thurs 8 June:</b>
Day in Toronto then Richard and Jack bus to airport and fly to Gatwick, all on time. Air Transat Club Class Flight TS422 Toronto to LGW. Depart 22.05, Arrive 10.05 on Fri 9 June.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-25886754552875198632017-03-27T10:20:00.000-04:002017-06-26T17:24:26.476-04:00Pittsburgh: the old and the new<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0N4SKy6oohzdHf3PWBhlrSev-NLK1CXh7I_GRyl-jsu-Xq5ZjETH93BE1ep6v4PFwpxvU_dgG_BYeAj-baA-ZQrtJvOoOjl5pYZlvlRXO0NahBT2K1Fo3EQbP-EFZCH2638Ap/s1600/DSCF2450.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0N4SKy6oohzdHf3PWBhlrSev-NLK1CXh7I_GRyl-jsu-Xq5ZjETH93BE1ep6v4PFwpxvU_dgG_BYeAj-baA-ZQrtJvOoOjl5pYZlvlRXO0NahBT2K1Fo3EQbP-EFZCH2638Ap/s320/DSCF2450.JPG" width="213" height="320" /></a><br>
<b>SAT 11 Mar</b><br>
Depart 12:35 from Toronto City Aiport, 5 mins late on Porter Bombardier Q400. Steamwhistle Pilsner on plane. Arrive Pittsburgh 13:35, very quiet at the airport. Uber/Lyft stand at the airport shows they are moving with the times. 28X Flyer bus, free for seniors, blagged my way on without proper ID, Annette $2.75. Busway and tunnel to city centre. About 45 minutes.<br>
After short walk from bus arrive at trendy Hotel Kimpton Monaco, 620 William Penn Place, at 15.25. Then stroll round downtown. First impressions: shuttered everywhere. Pittsburgh has contracted so much that it is overprovided with buildings. But the city is an architectural treasure box, to rival Chicago for interest, if not scale. There are all but no cranes to be seen. Nashville it is not - approximately 500 miles and a world away. Nevertheless Pittsburgh has tried harder than most rustbelt cities to recover from the loss of the once-dominant steel industry.<br>
The iconic Kauffmann's Dept Store (later Macy's) is closed, famous for "meet me under the clock." <i>Irish Fair in the Square</i> is underway with band "The Hillbilly Way" grunge-country rockers cranking it out in the freezing cold. "The twang's the thang!" Decided against supper on the square as it was full of drunk revellers celebrating St. Patrick's Day. Bought milk at Rite-Aid, very down home. Retreated to the hotel where more persons in green attire were partying. Free local beer: "Penn Pilsner."<br>
Supper at newly-opened <i>Talia</i> next door. Spendy at $115 incl tip. Food and service good. Farrotto main course - barley-based, similar to risotto, Montepulciano red wine (no house wine here).<br>
<b>SUN 12 Mar</b><br>
To <i>The Commoner</i> in the hotel for breakfast, pierogis and poached eggs, oatmeal, coffee, $39 incl tip. Duralex glasses at the table.<br>
71C bus to Point Breeze, via Oakland, University of Pittsburgh, Penn Avenue for Frick Museum (at Penn and Homewood). About 40 mins ride. Car museum and small motoring library. Bought book: <i>Meet You in Hell - Andrew Carnegie, Henry Clay Frick and the Bitter Partnership that Transformed America</i>, by Les Standiford, $16.05 incl tax.<br>
Clayton House Tour (the home of Henry Clay Frick), $12, Seniors $10. German Welte Style 6 Concert Orchestrion in the sun porch facing onto Penn Ave. It was not working when we were there. I wonder who will repair it?<br>
Lunch at <i>The Cafe at the Frick</i>, 7227 Reynolds St. Hot tea, soup and sandwich, $32.64 for two. Supper from Subway, 414 Smithfield Street, $12.95 takeout.<br>
<b>MON 13 Mar</b><br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDyWesm6dQ7Txen6XEyIdmlsjElHIk-0dmwEOClwfV2L_oBK06FPkbAdfsmpSd4ffAbWdiI6oaT3LoYdQK-yBV92T5eqMn-Y8i8iBBDq16wz7P8lxYMeKx1JVeHdkK7dqd9t1B/s1600/DSCF2401.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDyWesm6dQ7Txen6XEyIdmlsjElHIk-0dmwEOClwfV2L_oBK06FPkbAdfsmpSd4ffAbWdiI6oaT3LoYdQK-yBV92T5eqMn-Y8i8iBBDq16wz7P8lxYMeKx1JVeHdkK7dqd9t1B/s320/DSCF2401.JPG" width="320" height="213" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by ALT.</small><br>
Walk via Union Trust Building ($100m renovation) to <i>Apollo Cafe</i> - veggie omelet and coffee, $14.34 for two. Spotted Uber "driverless" Volvo SUV. The old and the new in Pittsburgh. Purchase 2 x $7 transit passes at Steel Plaza, go anywhere all day. Take subway/street car across the river bridge to Station Square and the old Pittsburgh & Lake Erie Railway station, superb interior, now a restaurant. Old railcars outdoors. Subway remarkably clean and safe. Purchased <i>Bomber Harris - His Life and Times</i>, by Henry Probert, $4.98 remaindered at Bradley's Bookshop, in the old engine shed.<br>
Cross the street to the Monongahela Incline for Mount Washington, coffee at <i>Grand Brew</i>, Shiloh St., walk one mile along Grandview Avenue to the Duquesne Incline, spectacular views, descent, then bus to downtown.<br>
Cold. Winter Storm Stella is expected. One O'clock lunch at <i>Au Bon Pain</i>, 625 Liberty Ave., soup and bagel, $11.52 for two. Panhandling conman in evidence.<br>
Supper at <i>The Tap Room</i> bar, at the Omni William Penn Hotel, Fish & Chips, Salmon Salad, $55. We note that the hotel is an old haunt of bandleader Lawrence Welk. Also that former British Prime Minister Gordon Brown stayed here on Thursday 24 September 2009. The socialist 'son of the manse' knew how to get his snout in the trough!<br>
<b>TUES 14 Mar</b><br>
Breakfast at <i>Bruegger's Bagels</i>, "Authetic New York Style," 531 Grant Street, $13.23. A haunt of low-lifes.<br>
Walk to Amtrak station, a magnificent old building, now private apartments. Due to the bad weather the Amtrak train from Chicago is short-stopped at Pittsburgh (engine #112). Parked at the platform is the Ohio Central private rail car "Sugarcreek." Amtrak-employee Richard Mayorsky cheerfully answers our questions. At his suggestion we walk up the side of the station to view an old Pennsylvania Rail Road sign.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdPZ993Mw6uRqQTTWEkf0A-sHNC7bMfvh-HHBZu_PVJwtrrutg_u2NGR3bZt6cJmmgzbE4Louop_Xsrjp6LAJeJcgTsjyoZlyZEcxSLLyDj8iTENp0xypOwAFPbh9kmMdopdSc/s1600/DSCF2436.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdPZ993Mw6uRqQTTWEkf0A-sHNC7bMfvh-HHBZu_PVJwtrrutg_u2NGR3bZt6cJmmgzbE4Louop_Xsrjp6LAJeJcgTsjyoZlyZEcxSLLyDj8iTENp0xypOwAFPbh9kmMdopdSc/s320/DSCF2436.JPG" width="320" height="214" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by ALT.</small><br>
Walk on to the Senator John Heinz History Center, 1212 Smallman Street. The man at the cash desk says Pittsburgh is the "most liveable city." We watch a film of old-time city streetcars, sat aboard PCC trolley #1724. There was a time when streetcars inspired composers viz: The Trolley March, J.S. Duss, 1901. Like Philadelphia, Pittsburgh has lost its streetcars downtown (they are now underground). They could have exploited the tourist potential, exemplified by San Francisco.<br>
On display a 1936 stainless steel Ford Deluxe Sedan, built by Allegheny Steel and the Ford Motor Company to demonstrate the practical and promotional uses of stainless steel. Old sign on wall for Horne's Department Store at Penn Ave/Stanwix Street, name changed to Lazarus in 1994. Displays re Heinz Ketchup, which has the keystone on the label. The company started out making horseradish sauce and later became known for pickles. Splendid archive facilities on sixth floor. Lunch at the museum, among the exhibits, $7.76.<br>
In the evening to <i>Earth Inspired Salads</i>, 61 William Penn Place, $21.14, There was enough food for three meals. So we took a doggie bag back to the hotel to make a supper for the morrow.<br>
<b>WED 15 Mar</b><br>
Breakfast at busy Starbucks, Omni William Penn Hotel, $11.34.<br>
61C bus to Carnegie Museum of Art, Carnegie Library, Forbes & Craig. I do some research at the (free) Library, while Annette tours the art museum and natural history exhibits (nominally $20, but free for school teachers). The Cafe Carnegie, 4400 Forbes Ave, for lunch: Pumpkin Pasta Bake, Veggie Pot Pie, $42. Suitable on a cold day.<br>
After lunch to Caliban's Bookstore, 410 S Craig St., purchased <i>Maigret and the Killer</i>, Georges Simenon, $12. Back to town on #58 bus, going all round the 'burbs. <i>Jimmy John's</i> for cookie and sandwich, 501 Grant St., $9.28. Put together with leftovers made a supper for two.<br>
<b>THURS 16 Mar</b><br>
Walk to The Strip. <i>In the Kitchen</i> store, 1725 Penn Ave., where Annette scores a Garlic Saver, $5.34. <i>P&Gs Pamela's Diner</i>, fifties style breakfast, $27 incl tip. Backtrack to Bradleys Book Outlet, 2019 Penn Ave: <i>Treasure Hunt, an Inspector Mantalbano Mystery</i>, by Andrea Camilleri, $2.12. Old industrial buildings refurbished as flats. The salvation of Pittsburgh must lie in persuading people to live downtown. Then to <i>The Store at Contemporary Craft</i>, 2100 Smallman Street, aka Contributions non-profit space, still going after 40 years. Wooden salad tongs and spreader made by Jonathan's Spoons in Pennsylvania, $37.45.<br>
Evening Penn Pilsner beer at hotel happy hour, then Yuengling draft at <i>The Commoner</i>, Half-Chicken, Tofu Tikka Marsala, $51.36 plus tip.<br>
<b>FRI 17 Mar</b><br>
Breakfast at <i>Einstein Bros Bagels</i>, in the Koppers Building, 2 x Lox Bagels, coffee, $21.14, quiet, no hassle. This chain is known to us from our visit to Scranton, PA. Walkabout to PPG Place. A showpiece development lacking tenants. Coffee at <i>Crazy Mocha Coffee Co</i> in a pleasant atrium. Walk back to hotel, dep 28X Flyer bus for the airport.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7R_X3ObqCBSOO9S_LhkerLYKoUNGRIjxtFtJNAW-6ctyffWaMY98nWY4PB5bCNj7j44VCKbZzunZGjYLKfQkdVu2uwmfcSDSkhcSWo_KMmn1r02G7ppkIOe4T8zkDkS3shMBk/s1600/DSCN3418.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7R_X3ObqCBSOO9S_LhkerLYKoUNGRIjxtFtJNAW-6ctyffWaMY98nWY4PB5bCNj7j44VCKbZzunZGjYLKfQkdVu2uwmfcSDSkhcSWo_KMmn1r02G7ppkIOe4T8zkDkS3shMBk/s320/DSCN3418.JPG" width="320" height="240" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT.</small>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-26883204145277763372017-01-04T07:33:00.000-05:002017-03-24T06:27:55.900-04:00Boomtown Showdown[This blog post specially for Nick Murphy.]<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82vTPfWDVEca_fToCwqJ7zxOcywMz67n9TkcavawwGhANlTVQgIe8eYLbc6xko_A2LgnTF3VNUNA-yqrHxqoIWBdl-Z1s4QPizOhyphenhyphenK_DSu-1OpJ5zG7EUgYSM_HCrBuJzor57/s1600/DSCF2270.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg82vTPfWDVEca_fToCwqJ7zxOcywMz67n9TkcavawwGhANlTVQgIe8eYLbc6xko_A2LgnTF3VNUNA-yqrHxqoIWBdl-Z1s4QPizOhyphenhyphenK_DSu-1OpJ5zG7EUgYSM_HCrBuJzor57/s320/DSCF2270.JPG" width="320" height="214" /></a><br>
<i>Nashville is booming. There are cranes everywhere. Renewal is all around. Research says the hotels are more expensive than NYC. Apartment rents are sky-high. (Allegedly the largest U.S. city without a long-distance passenger railroad connection.) If America is making a comeback it is happening here.</i><br>
<br>
Up early in Toronto on a snowy Christmas morning. Catch the blue night bus right outside our apartment, 06:48 direct to Pearson Airport, $1.95 seniors ticket. In about 30 minutes we are at check-in. Through U.S. Passport check with minimum hassle. Both flight and customs procedures now semi-automated. Long walk to gate A6e.<br>
We board Westjet flight WS360 for Nashville. The Bombardier Q400 Nextgen aircraft is full. Depart 09:45, fifteen minutes late. A jolly Christmas mood prevails. We leave the white Christmas of Toronto behind. Sipping two Canadian Molson beers on the flight.<br>
Arrive Nashville airport, the Gibson guitars are still in their display cases, just as I remembered them. Catch Jarmon shuttle bus to hotel - $55 return for two people. Dave, the driver, is not on his normal run to Kentucky, picking up soldier boys from Fort Campbell. We arrive at the Fairfield Inn and Suites by Marriot, Nashville Downtown/The Gulch, 901 Division Street, Nashville, TN. High of 73°F.<br>
We walk downtown via the Broadway. Everywhere is closed. We catch the free bus which goes all round the town. The driver is plagued by down-and-outs. We hop off at The Gulch, declining a four-course Christmas lunch at the Marsh House, $72 per head. It begins to look like McDonald's! One last throw of the dice and we head for the Union Station Hotel, where we luck out, lunching at the bar in the fabulous foyer. Smoked Gouda Pimento Cheese, Spinach Salad and Grilled Chicken Sandwich, $36.14 plus tip. Back at McDonald's we buy some milk.<br>
After time out, we head for the <i>Station Inn</i> for some old-timey live bluegrass music. No entry charge on Xmas night for the jam session. Drinking $4 Yuengling beers from Pottsville, Pennsylvania, $12 pizza to share. Short walk back to hotel.<br>
<b>26th:</b> Walkabout in The Gulch: checking out Arnold's Country Kitchen, Carter Vintage Guitars, Downtown Antiques. Walk via Rosa L. Parks Boulevard to the Tenncare Building (former Bureau of Medicaid), an old government building now sadly being demolished. Nearby is the Hilton Homestead Suites, where Billy Ray Cyrus rents studio space. We backtrack to <i>Tin Cup Coffee</i> in the Horton Building, 136 Rosa L. Parks Boulevard. A trip to the Tourist Information Visitor Centre is followed by a pleasant lunch at <i>Wild Wasabi</i>, Cummins Station, with the Dunn family.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT5p5pangn5i5LZ0eJLLzMbbgV8Wjh5SPo0KDk98nHpXPyWcNAo-fXDZpqcgvKmHYXQP6J9idiEkn5c_KLY1CvC45tcfF-tUR1bl8XMhxKZ6Lo_lyK5-DBPx0ENt3fEirZXUbB/s1600/DSCN3374.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT5p5pangn5i5LZ0eJLLzMbbgV8Wjh5SPo0KDk98nHpXPyWcNAo-fXDZpqcgvKmHYXQP6J9idiEkn5c_KLY1CvC45tcfF-tUR1bl8XMhxKZ6Lo_lyK5-DBPx0ENt3fEirZXUbB/s320/DSCN3374.JPG" width="320" height="240" /></a><br>
We check out a used bookstore where I purchase: "The Last Lap - The Life and Times of NASCAR's Legendary Heroes" by Peter Golenbock, 1998 hardback, well sold at $15. A couple of howlers in the book - he can't spell Carroll Shelby (error repeated in the index) or Dick Hutcherson (he becomes Hutchinson in photo captions). Golenbock relies too heavily on interviews without supporting research. He does however detect the rigged nature of NASCAR racing, which tarnishes their back story. The author is not a car guy in any real sense. Overall a potboiler.<br>
Supper at <i>City Fire</i>, 610 12th Ave S, Nashville, TN 37203: shrimp and grits, followed by Apple Crisp, Chocolate Bread Pudding <i>à la mode</i>, Yuengling beer, $71.08 including tip. We ask our server, Meshach Jackson, a test question: what is the difference between a mandolin and a dobro? His detailed reply gives away the fact that he is a musician and songwriter, as we suspected.<br>
<b>27th:</b> Walk to Belmont Mansion, 1900 Belmont Boulevard, Nashville, TN 37212, via Music Row, Vanderbilt University. We take coffee at <i>Provence Breads & Cafe</i>, 1705 21st Ave S, Nashville, TN 37212. We blunder into <i>Bookman-Bookwoman</i>, 1713 21st Ave S, Nashville, TN 37212, next door and already on our to-do list. We discover it is closing after 21 years. Annette scores eight paperback books for $8 (valued at $64).<br>
After Belmont Mansion tour, $12 each, we take #17 bus along 12th Avenue South to Division Street. <i>Subway</i> takeaway lunch.<br> Evening walk to Bridgestone Arena where the Nashville Predators are playing the Minnesota Wild in the NHL. The Preds lose 2-3 in sudden death overtime. Also present: Peter Frampton; Vince Gill (singing backup with the Gypsy Rose covers band). $10 Stella beers, ouch! They insist on checking my ID - the second time I say: "I'm still 65!" Politically correct lawyers gone mad.<br>
<b>28th:</b> Tour of the Downtown Antique market, next to the railroad tracks. Early lunch at <i>Arnold's Country Kitchen</i>, 605 8th Avenue South, Nashville, TN 37203. They say you can't have have fast, cheap and good. Wrong. Arnold's has southern food to die for! Fried catfish, baked squash, stewed okra and black eyed peas. Get there early to beat the crowds.<br>
We catch the free green bus to Walgreen's, where we score half-price Walker's shortbread biscuits among the Xmas remainders. I send a solitary postcard from the Post Office in the old arcade. We avoid the George Jones and Johnny Cash museums. Supper at <i>Otaku Ramen</i> in the Gulch: Veggie Miso, Donburi Hot Chicken fusion.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9zgZvJgfPyXDJcjQrcBaLBIAbD7AFV5h9oP11ozhVl0E0TYQXfpufA1HvN3qenRaLhH46EDMm6mGveH00-6q6-L3IfBK7oOrgAX8MhmWBnxLgVeDwLeJu50n6cETJyI6CKsq/s1600/DSCF2298.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM9zgZvJgfPyXDJcjQrcBaLBIAbD7AFV5h9oP11ozhVl0E0TYQXfpufA1HvN3qenRaLhH46EDMm6mGveH00-6q6-L3IfBK7oOrgAX8MhmWBnxLgVeDwLeJu50n6cETJyI6CKsq/s320/DSCF2298.JPG" width="320" height="240" /></a><br>
<b>29th:</b> Breakfast at <i>Slow Hand Coffee</i>, 300A 10th Ave South, Nashville: coffee and "Basic Biscuit," a zesty cheddar scone. Two buses to the Piggly Wiggly at Dickerson and Cleveland, 85 cents for seniors. This is Food Stamp country. A sign on the door says: "Free ride in a police car for shoplifters." "Take on Me" by A-ha is playing. Carroll Shelby turns up again with his own-brand Chili. I note the food carts are all from <i>Home Depot</i>.<br>
We take the bus back to town and walk some distance to Marathon Village, an old factory that is home-from-home to the <i>American Pickers</i> TV show, spotted from a distance by the old water tower. Lunch at The Frist Museum, BBQ pork sandwich, good value for two at $21.08 plus tip. Taxi back to hotel - we have walked far enough.<br>
<b>30th:</b> We have been wondering where folks in The Gulch get their groceries, when we spot <i>Turnip Truck</i>, hawking "Urban Fare." We take the #5 bus to the Piggly Wiggly at 2900 West End Ave. Annette is thrilled with a Piggly Wiggly souvenir shopping bag at $1.99. You can't beat a good groceteria. We walk on to The Parthenon, a giant replica of the real thing, in a park. Why bother to go all the way to Athens when you have a facsimile right there in Nashville, which is in much better shape and devoid of panhandlers? Tee shirt: "Hard work beats talent, when talent doesn't work hard."<br>
Rite-Aid is beckoning with the never-ending quest for Goldenberg's Peanut Chews. "Chewing it old school." We are relieved to find Philly's finest at $1 a pack of eleven. Across the street to Barnes and Noble bookstore. Half price diary at $5, made by Gallery Leather, 27 Industrial Way, Trenton, Maine 04605. I feel I have made a small contribution to keeping Americans in employment. I also buy the book "Enduring Courage: Ace Pilot Eddie Rickenbacker and the Dawn of the Age of Speed" by John F. Ross, remaindered at $6.98.<br>
We walk back to the Gulch via Vanderbilt University, where the Robin has set up home for the winter on the lawns. I've never seen so many. We lunch at <i>Sambuca</i>, a cavernous bar: soup followed by fish and chips, grilled polenta, $30.24 plus tip.<br>
In the evening we walk to the Lower Broadway for the Franklin American Mortgage Music City Bowl "Downtown Showdown." The Nashville Volunteers, (the Vols, UofT football), have defeated the Nebraska Huskers, 38-24, at the Nissan Stadium. The crowds are streaming across the bridge over the Cumberland River to celebrate on the Broadway, Nashville's honky-tonk heaven. $6 cans of beer are on sale from stalls, no ID check, no problem drinking outdoors.<br>
To get the party started we have the band Locash, low-rent rockers, who feature songs about trucks and getting drunk. After some redneck buffoonery - "Hey bubba, why are you wearing sunglasses in the dark?" - we head for the warmth of the bar at the Westin Hotel for supper and a Yazoo beer, $48.18 plus tip.<br>
<b>31st:</b> Next morning it it all going too well as the Jarmon bus picks us up at the hotel at 08:30.
At the airport I realise I have lost my notebook for the trip. A frantic search for the bus and I can see my book through the window. We locate the lady driver who unlocks the bus and my sanity is restored. A lucky save. Turns out our flight is delayed so we are treated to another rendition of "Frosty the Snowman." Don't rock the jukebox.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-16497136527820842852016-11-22T09:18:00.000-05:002016-11-22T11:07:43.946-05:00Living on an IslandOur summer tour took us to Vancouver Island, which included house hunting. (It came down to a shortlist of Victoria and Sidney, to the north of Victoria, between the airport and the sea).<br>
BC Trip Monday 11 July - Tuesday 2 August 2016:<br>
Monday, 11 July, WESTJET Flight: WS 711, Departure: YYZ TORONTO, TERMINAL 3, 12:55PM, Arrival: YVR VANCOUVER , MAIN TERMINAL, 3:00PM.<br>
WESTJET Flight: WS 3222, Departure: YVR VANCOUVER, MAIN TERMINAL, 4:15PM, Arrival: YYJ VICTORIA 4:46PM.<br>
YYJ Bus to downtown Victoria, with running commentary, drop off at the <i>Swan Hotel & Brewpub</i>, Pandora Avenue. Short walk to Airbnb accommodation at:<br>
409 Swift Street, Suite 310, Victoria, BC, V8W 1S2 (Mon 11 July to Mon 18 July, on the waterfront near Johnson Street Bridge, water taxi stop at Mermaid Wharf, adjacent to China Town.)<br>
First evening walk to China Town to get some milk. Supper at <i>Canoe Pub</i> opposite our digs, squid and beet salad, $6 Belgian beer special, $42 for two incl tip.<br>
<b>Tuesday Day 2:</b> After watching the <i>Tour de France</i> on tablet, walk to <i>Honeybun Café</i>, 805 Yates Street for breakfast, Fry Up and French toast, $26 incl tip for two. Shopping at Shopper's Drug Mart and Market on Yates (checked out 10:00 am), checking on prices.<br>
<b>Wednesday Day 3:</b> Stroll around downtown. Decaf Americano and panini at <i>Sandwich Corner</i>, Courtney & Gordon. Meet Jeannie and the boys at RBC Museum. Adjacent food trucks for lunch. I take the water taxi while they take in the <i>Imax</i>. In the evening walked to <i>Delta Grosse Point Hotel</i> for drinks and dessert, harbour view.<br>
<b>Thursday Day 4:</b> Bus 2A to Oak Bay ($5 bus deal "Rover ticket" - any bus all day). Coffee at <i>Serious Coffee</i>, Oak Bay Ave, a local chain. ReMax real estate, Library.<br>
Bus #2 on circular route round Oak Bay, then stroll to Oak Bay Marina, lunch at <i>Dockside Eatery</i>. Watching heron in the harbour, also belted kingfisher stalking a sea otter, hoping for leftovers. In the evening to <i>Famoso Pizzeria</i>, Douglas St, $5 Driftwood Brewery Fat Tug IPA (later I discover this is 7% alc/vol - hard to find a session beer in BC).<br>
<b>Friday Day 5:</b> Walk to James Bay. Coffee at <i>James Bay Coffee Co</i> (with bookshop), on down to seashore, along Dallas St, check out a house on San Jose Avenue, then Ogden Point. Walk on to Fisherman's Wharf, lunch at <i>Barb's Fish & Chips</i>, later meeting Jeannie and the boys from Seattle. Water taxi back to digs.<br>
<b>Saturday Day 6:</b> Meet Margaret. Breakfast at <i>QV Bakery</i>, Government St., cheap and cheerful. Car to Cook Street, walk to Fairfield Plaza and back, coffee at Starbucks. Deer live in the suburbs, often seen, they will come and eat from your veggie patch. Some gardens have high fences and are deer proof.<br>
Then by car to Esquimalt, The Gorge, then Willow Beach for stroll. Logs on the Beach. Lunch in China Town.<br>
<b>Sunday Day 7: </b><i>Bubby Rose's Bakery</i>, Cook & Fort, to meet Emma and Paul, newly arrived from Toronto. Pleasant and not too busy at this pavement café.<br>
Mon 18 July to Mon 25 July: Switch digs to 760 Johnson Street 1005, Victoria, BC V8W 0A4 (Juliet Building, corner of Johnson and Blanshard. Coffee at <i>Mochiato</i>, downstairs, while waiting to get the keys.)<br>
Bus to Oak Bay Marina for lunch. Meet Clive and Anna on vacation from Toronto.<br>
<b>Tues 19:</b> To Sooke with Clive and Anna for rented mountain bikes and ride on the Galloping Goose trail. About three hours, I manage to climb the hill into Sooke on return. Drive to Sandcut Beach, among the trees, along the Juan de Fuca Strait. Pitstop at <i>Shirley Delicious</i>, on the way back, for cookie and lemonade.<br>
<b>Wed 20:</b> Walk to West Victoria to see the old E&N railyards and roundhouse. Coffee at Casa Nova Catering, 492 Esquimalt Rd. Early supper at Margaret's House in Gordon Head.<br>
<b>Thurs 21:</b> To Chapters to buy Victoria map book, Trains magazine. Bus to Oak Bay. Lunchtime snack at friendly <i>Good Earth Coffehouse</i>, 1971 Oak Bay Avenue.<br>
<b>Fri 22:</b> Walk to breakfast at <i>Relish Food & Coffee</i>, 920 Pandora. Bus to Cook and Fort, checking out the shops. Car to lunch outdoors with Margaret at <i>Milestones</i> by Victoria harbour in the sunshine. The Hot Rods are arriving for the big show.<br>
<b>Sat 23:</b> To "Jaguars on the Island" car show at Windsor Park, Oak Bay. Strolling on leafy streets to Fairway Market, bought jelly babies while checking on prices. Lunch at <i>Penny Farthing</i> "English" pub, Oak Bay. We enjoyed Northwest Deuce Days in Victoria, some 1200 Hot Rods plus "outlaw" muscle cars. We sat out at an intersection in the warm Saturday evening watching the cars cruising the town. It was like appearing in "American Graffiti."<br>
<b>Sun 24:</b> We were up early on Sunday to see the Hot Rods assembled round the harbour, many top notch cars up from California. The show runs every three years. On our last night in Victoria we found the <i>Veneto Bar</i> at the Rialto Hotel, Government & Pandora. Less noisy, less blokey than some.<br>
Rudyard Kipling, writing in 1907, likened Victoria to Bournemouth with the Himalayas in the background. (There are snow-capped mountains in the distance, in the US. Victoria being below the 49th parallel.)<br>
Mon 25 July to Tues 2 Aug: travelling around Vancouver Island.<br>
We backtracked to the airport on the YYJ bus to pick up a rental car, catching the bus at the 'Save on Foods' Memorial Centre, a hockey stadium in Victoria. We set off through the spectacular Malahat Pass, in a black Nissan Sentra, stopping at Duncan for lunch. Three hours free parking, by the old train station, pausing to listen to a folk concert outdoors. Pleasant lunch at <i>Gourmet Gardens</i>, 161 Kenneth Street, Duncan, BC V9L 1N5, outdoors under a grapevine.<br>
Ride on to Qualicum Beach Inn, 2690 West Island Highway. Period circular bar and dining room, great location with sea view. Stock-keeping not their strong point - they were running out of tonic at the bar and had no bacon for breakfast. I managed to scrounge some real milk to go with coffee in the room. Meet up with Reb and Billy and walk to <i>The Shady Rest Waterfront</i>. The restaurant was not firing on all cylinders.<br>
Next morning quick vist to QB Airport, park at the old train station, then stroll in the 'chocolate box' downtown where they are making a movie. Drinks at Qualicum Foods, a trendy supermarket, followed by a visit to the latest incarnation of <i>Pancake Manor</i> studios, in an old school classroom.<br>
Then short ride to Port Alberni via "Goats on the Roof," a hokey tourist attraction, and Cathedral Grove, a magnificent forest. We enjoyed three nights at Port Alberni to the max. Great breakfast by the river at the Blue Door, 5415 Argyle St, Port Alberni, BC, V9Y 1T6 - "Home of All Day Breakfasts" - old timey without the greasy spoon. Shopping at Walmart and No Frills - best prices on the Island.<br>
Superb ride in the speeder car (known locally as a crummy) to McLean Mill, approx 35 minutes. There is a crazy lady en route who waves flags at all passing trains while dressed in costumes, house decked out with flags.<br>
We toured the lumber mill, which wasn't operating that day, but it didn't matter. Many photo ops of old vehicles and machinery without any crowds. The crew of the speeder car, which used to carry up to 30 people to work sites on the railway (more in a trailer, not present), were very friendly and afterwards took us back to the engine shed in the speeder to see the old Shay locomotive, a shaft-drive rarity which seems to turn up on our travels e.g. in Australia. They need $200,000 to make the Shay fully operational. (We had checked at Victoria Tourist Information ref the train ride and been told it was no longer running - we took steps to put this right.)
We drove out of town to find the old hill climb racing course from the sixties at Alberni summit. The road off Hwy 4 near the brake test area is now blocked off but we are fairly sure we were in the right place. I am on the trail of pictures and film etc.
We walked to supper at <i>Bare Bones</i>, a popular fish and chip place in an old church, with a simple choice of red or white wine.<br>
Next day we walked up the trail to the trestle and waterfall, watching the steam train 90 foot up in the air. Only snag here 75 inches of rainfall annually, mostly in winter. (The rainfall varies greatly over a short distance e.g. 75 inches in Port Alberni, 28 inches in Victoria.) Can't fault a place that sells Eccles cakes!<br>
We are sorry to miss "Thunder in the Valley" in Port Alberni. Usually a quarter mile drag race at the airport, this year they are refurbing the airport with runway extension and new lighting, so have moved the event to town with an improvised eighth-mile strip outside our hotel. Gotta love the spirit of these people. The lady that booked us into the hotel is driving in the drags. Another sign of making the most of things is that the hotel is a stop on the railway - our speeder driver, Pete Geddes, told of a special train stopping at the hotel to pick up a wedding party.<br>
Parksville reminded us of New Zealand, with single-story buildings and nose-first angle parking. We stopped by the disused railway station and chatted to a lady with an AMC Spirit car, before she disappeared indoors to the pottery shop: "I don't watch the news, it's a bliss thing!" We spotted a Stedman's department store, a name no longer seen in Ontario.<br>
We check in to Best Western Northgate Inn, 6450 Metral Drive, Nanaimo, BC, V9T 2L8 for two nights. Folk had said uncharitable things about Nanaimo, but we enjoyed strolling on the harbourfront, taking coffee and sandwich at <i>Javawocky</i>, #8 - 90 Front Street. Nanaimo, BC V9R 5H7. Walk to supper at <i>Milano's Ristorante</i>, Suite 300-6551 Aulds Rd, Nanaimo, V9T 6K2.<br>
Next morning we went to search for the remnants of the No. 5 Mine at Wellington, in the northern suburbs of Nanaimo (now incorporated). We explored near Diver Lake, but apart from a plaque there was little to indicate that this had once been a busy coal mining area. Scored $2 Bodum bundle at a thrift store, where they recommended <i>Buzz Coffee Shop</i>, 1861 Dufferin Crescent, Nanaimo, BC V9S 0B1. We also checked out Country Grocer supermarket opposite.<br>
After lunch we caught #50 bus at the Woodgrove Centre, which turned into #7 at Prideaux Street downtown, and then set off south into the boondocks dropping us in Cedar, about a mile from the <i>Crow & Gate</i> "English" pub, a Mock-Tudor building in the middle of nowhere. We met up with Reb, Billy and Jaynie for supper. This unlikely place qualifies as a "Home from Home." Lift back to hotel, via Nanaimo railway station, now a restaurant.<br>
Next morning we set off southbound via Ladysmith, then Chemainus (well presented murals and a sad little railway station) for Sidney. Back track to coffee at <i>Saltair Station House</i>, 10445 Chemainus Road, Chemainus, V0R 1K2. Lunch at <i>The Surly Mermaid</i>, 9891 Seaport Place, Sidney, V8L 4X3, (fish and chips, very fresh).<br>
Two nights at <i>Sidney Waterfront Inn & Suites</i>, 9775 1 St, Sidney, V8L 3E1. Walking tour of south side. Early evening drinks at <i>Charles Dickens Pub</i>, 2280 Beacon Avenue, Sidney. Pizza supper at <i>Woodshed Restaurant</i>, 2369 Beacon Ave, Sidney, BC. Last gasp at noisy <i>Haro's Restaurant & Bar</i>, 9805 Seaport Place, Sidney, V8L 4X3. Coffee at welcoming <i>Red Brick Café</i> (2 for $3.50),
Tour by car taking in the northern suburbs, airport and Patricia Bay. Last night treat at <i>Beacon Landing Restaurant & Lounge</i>, 2537 Beacon Ave W #107, Sidney, V8L 1Y3. Scallops.<br>
Tuesday, 02 August:<br>
WESTJET Flight WS 3277, Departure: YYJ VICTORIA, 2:00PM; Arrival: YVR VANCOUVER, MAIN TERMINAL, 2:28PM.<br>
WESTJET Flight: WS 718, Departure: YVR VANCOUVER, MAIN TERMINAL, 4:00PM; Arrival: YYZ TORONTO, TERMINAL 3, 11:29PM.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-71172861958011519432016-06-01T08:11:00.000-04:002016-07-01T19:44:49.679-04:00Broken Spoke Tour - Caen to Pau by Brompton 2016 <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ZmSQli8LWWZDI3u9bwiKp2tFJ1A4nPcG7nqnjrvd8ObWVhekC8ljOsReKkZYhFY45dZdvV1jXlqCuciojlz7Ix-vsB_t2NoRMgl_mcexuw73YP6RTWF6f_EXzDWEddQpi8Bu/s1600/DSCF1218b.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_ZmSQli8LWWZDI3u9bwiKp2tFJ1A4nPcG7nqnjrvd8ObWVhekC8ljOsReKkZYhFY45dZdvV1jXlqCuciojlz7Ix-vsB_t2NoRMgl_mcexuw73YP6RTWF6f_EXzDWEddQpi8Bu/s320/DSCF1218b.jpg" /></a><br>
<b>Sun 8 May:</b><br> Lewes to Portsmouth, train as far as Havant, rode Bromptons the remaining ten miles into Portsmouth. Jack having potentially serious issue with loose pivot pin on the rear triangle of his Brompton, duly kludged. Supper at the <i>Ship and Castle</i> at Portsmouth Docks, where by chance we meet Iain Rowley and Paul Jenkins, headed for the Pau historic car races (via Monaco) with a Formula Junior Lola. We shall meet again.<br>
(Chap at ferry terminal off on a solo 4,000 mile cycle ride to Croatia and back.)<br>
Brittany Ferries, 22.45 sailing to Ouistreham, outside berth cabin for 4, ensuite facilities. Light breakfast served in cabin.<br>
<b>Mon 9th May:</b> Arrive Ouistreham 06.45. Depart 07:15 for Domfront (71 miles). Easily picked up the <i>Voie Verte</i>, along the canal via the Pegasus Bridge, to Caen. First pitstop at <i>Bar Le Newport</i>, 74 Quai Vendeuvre, 14000 Caen. Past the <i>Bir Hakeim</i> bridge, easy going on old railway line to Thury-Harcourt, following the valley of the Orne, headed for the <i>Suisse Normande</i>. The cycle track peters out in the hill country, just when you need it most. We got separated after leaving Clécy: Richard and Nigel had taken a right fork (D1) signposted Pont d'Ouilly. Jack and I hadn't seen them, and so we took the left fork signposted, less visibly, with a bicycle route (D168/D23). I was unhappy with the ups and downs of our route, mainly along the Orne. When we met R and N however, it turned out that the main route had included an extremely steep long climb. <i>Gruppo compatto</i> at the <i>Bar de L'Isle</i> in Pont d'Ouilly.<br>
I got tailed off on the D25 on the long climb to Athis-de-l'Orne, so decided to ride into Flers and find the Office de Tourisme. Soon picked up the flat <i>Voie Verte</i>, after La Selle-la-Forge, for the last 12 miles into Domfront, pausing for drink and energy bar at a picnic table. My companions are already in the bar at the hotel, which is ideally situated close to the path, but report roadworks at Le Chatellier, hostile drivers on the highway and hazardous hilly conditions.<br>
This day voted the "Queen Stage" of the Tour.<br>
Logis Hôtel de France, 7, rue du Mont-St-Michel, 61700 Domfront. Tel+33233385144, Dining on site. Breakfast €6.50. Spacious and suitable for cyclists, avoiding climb to town centre.<br>
<b>Tues 10th May:</b> To Laval (52 miles). The red <i>Voie Verte</i> exit Domfront is completely unsuitable for touring bikes, best left to rockhoppers and mudpluggers. The French need a grading system for paths as they vary from the sublime to the ridiculous. Rupe followed this for a while, rest returned to town, bypassed Torchamp.<br>
Route via Torchamp, Mayenne. Regrouped just before Ambrières-les-Vallées. Some running on railpath with adjacent Vélorail. Lunch at
Saint-Fraimbault-de-Prières, Pays de la Loire, boulangerie and bar. Later long stretches riding beside the Mayenne river, after Mayenne. Many weirs and locks. Chatting to a Brit couple on a tandem. At the top of a long hill: Kyriad Hotel, Boulevard des Trappistines, Laval, 53000 Tel +33243028888. Dining on site. Breakfast €10.00.<br>
<b>Wed 11th May:</b> To Angers (64 miles). We resume the riverside path, making good time to Chateau Gontier for a tea stop at the <i>Café Brasserie du Vieux Pont</i>, in town by the Mayenne. Path quality reduced when changed departments. Chambellay shut. Later we divert to Le Lion D'Anger, via a horse-race course, in search of food. We are late for lunch and all we can find is a bag of crisps.<br>
I lose my companions near Port Albert and I make the disastrous decision to take a footpath, thinking the worst that could happen was that I would have to push the bike. On this path a walker would need crampons, rope and a chainsaw. Eventually I can neither go forward or back, so I fold the bike and climb the cliff by the Mayenne, returning to retrieve my luggage, and making good my escape via a farmer's field. The farmer fails to spot me as I use the old trick of standing perfectly still. My troubles are not over. I reach Montreuil-Juigné, rehydrating at a sympathetic campsite. Lost once more, I puncture on a service road, retreating to <i>Cave et Bar V&B Avrillé</i>, ZI Croix Cadeau, 49240 Avrillé, in the suburbs of Angers. "Taxi pour Monsieur Thomas!" I finish in the broom wagon, some 2½ hours late.<br>
2 nights <i>Hotel Marguerite d’Anjou</i>, Place Du Président Kennedy, Angers, 49100. Tel +33241881161. Breakfast €8.50. Cosy bar. Dining at nearby Cambodian Restaurant Shantou, in the Rue Toussaint, as a heavy storm breaks, with flash floods. Front page news next day.<br>
<b>Thurs 12th May:</b> day off in Angers. To <i>Le Velo Bar</i>, 69 Rue Bressigny, 49100 Angers. Interesting vegetarian restaurant/bike shop with quiche to die for! (Réparation Vélo - Café Bio). Flat fixed, broken spoke removed with plan to reach Pau unmended. Italian restaurant supper at <i>La Piazzetta</i>, 9 Rue des Lices. Good value. Late drinks at <i>Matt Murphy's</i>, 25 Rue Maréchal Foch, full of Dutch truckers from Scania in Zwolle.<br>
<b>Fri 13th May:</b> To Bressuire (52 miles) via Les Ponts de Cé (multiple river crossings, easy going leaving the Loire Valley), Thouarcé, lunch in the Place Charles de Gaulle, Vihiers, then skirting Argenton-les-Vallées. Pit stop at <i>Bar Chez Didier Pizza</i>, 4 Place de la Mairie, St Clémentin. I notice another puncture. We try to carry on but forced to give up at Voultegon, where a lady at Garage Pascal Metais was most helpful. I finish by taxi once more, fixing the flat under cover outside the hotel entrance. <i>Inter-Hotel Plume</i>, 4 Espace Bocapole, Bressuire, 79300. Tel +33549818283. Breakfast €9.00. A shed on a characterless trading estate, no bar, suitable but pricey. Dining nearby at <i>Au Bistrot Gourmand</i>, a smaller shed, also suitable. Tired.<br>
<b>Sat 14th May:</b> To Surgères (66 miles). Tea stop at classy <i>Les Arts</i>, Breuil-Bernard. Then lunch outdoors at L'Absie, on to Saint-Pompain. Pitstop at Benet, Pays de la Loire, at a motorhome park. We transit Mauzé-sur-le-Mignon, a stop on a previous tour. Bushwhacking late in the day led to lost companions, and going round in circles at Saint-Saturnin-du-Bois, eventually reaching Chaillé. I found the Office de Tourisme in Surgères, which was shut. Finally at Bed and Breakfast <i>H de Surgères</i>, 52 rue Audry de Puyravault, 17700 Surgères. Tel +33611460197. Evening meal at 20:00 and breakfast. Top digs, gourmet food, excellent value. Recommended. Early evening beers a short walk away at <i>Café Français</i>, 2 Avenue de la Libération, 17700 Surgères, with meaty terrine snacks.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHhPhxScYCxlB8_WaEtgRZuBMSjDv1FA_9htS-B5-VlX87nTWfl4commljqJAihqKiZCpJX6jMak8MVWrEdgoy2b-hw8kPhhrtlFyIKpohkucwGMe_Zla2h2SgcdL4N_djmogh/s1600/DSCN3009.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHhPhxScYCxlB8_WaEtgRZuBMSjDv1FA_9htS-B5-VlX87nTWfl4commljqJAihqKiZCpJX6jMak8MVWrEdgoy2b-hw8kPhhrtlFyIKpohkucwGMe_Zla2h2SgcdL4N_djmogh/s320/DSCN3009.JPG" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by RLT.</small><br>
<b>Sun 15th May:</b> To Pons via Rochefort (58 miles). Jack and I stop at <i>Baghera Boulangerie Pâtisserie</i> for lunchtime supplies at Rochefort. Catch up with advance party at the Transporter Bridge, one of only eight left in the world, at Echillais, sadly <i>hors de combat</i>. Hair raising crossing of adjacent highway bridge on the D733. Lunch in town square at Pont-l'Abbé-d'Arnoult.<br>
Drinks at <i>Alimentation</i>, by the church, Rue de Saintonge, Nancras. Jack and I stop at bar <i>Chez Colette</i>, Cafe de la Gare, Tesson. On final approach to Pons we encounter a bicycle race. Quirky <i>Chambres d'hôtes de l'Auberge Pontoise</i>, 15, 17 Rue Gambetta , Pons, 17800. Tel +33546940099. Lady of the house going to great lengths to provide a good breakfast, €8.00. Total €239.00 for four. Beers and dining in town at <i>Café du Donjon/Le Français</i> in the Place de la Republique.<br>
<b>Mon 16th May:</b> To Libourne (61 miles). Richard now suffering from slowly deflating rear tyre, decides to soldier on, pumping regularly. Tea stop at <i>Restaurant Bistrot de la Poste</i>, Jonzac; lunch at Chevanceaux, Poitou-Charentes. Further stop exit Guîtres at <i>Bar Hotel Restaurant St Roch</i> on the D910.<br>
Both legs and backside now hurting. Relieved to get through a tough day, through the vineyards to 2 nights at Mercure Libourne St Emilion, 3, Quai Souchet, Libourne, 33500. Tel +33557256418. Breakfast €15.50. We succeed in opening the bar at the hotel, which is curiously deserted, and overall fails to ring the bell. Supper at nearby <i>Hotel Restaurant La Tour du Vieux Port</i>. Acceptable.<br>
<b>Tues 17th May:</b> Day off in Libourne. Fix flat tyre on black Brompton in hotel courtyard, then to friendly CYCLE SHOP, 9 avenue de Verdun, 33500 Libourne, for sundry spares, including spray jollop for sealing inner tubes and tyre pressure check all round. Walk to splendid <i>Bar au Rallye</i>, Rue du Président Carnot, Libourne. Walk to supper <i>al fresco</i> at <i>la Guinguette de la vieille tour</i> across the river. Pizza pretty average.<br>
<b>Weds 18th May:</b> To Bazas (63 miles). Pit stop at <i>Relais de Naujan</i>, 28 Bis rte Bordeaux, Naujan-et-Postiac, where the lady makes up some baguettes. Shortly after picked up the excellent Roger Lapébie bike path, turning off at St Brice. Pitstop at <i>Salle des Fêtes</i>, Gornac, exit D228. Across the box bridge over the Garonne on the D15, to reach Castets-en-Dorthe. Themed <i>Hotel le Rodin</i>, 1, Cours du Général De Gaulle, 33430 Bazas. Tel +33556250996. Breakfast €8.00. 1st drinks: <i>Café des Sports</i>, 8 Cours Maréchal Foch. 2nd drinks: <i>Le Boeuf Pop</i>, Place de la Cathédrale, Bazas, Aquitaine. Dining at nearby <i>Restaurant Le Maquignon</i>, 4 Cours Maréchal Foch. Recommended: Buffet starter plus meat course etc. Top value.<br>
<b>Thurs 19th May:</b> To Aire-sur-l’Adour (53 miles), via Captieux, tea stop on N524, we bought lunch in the boulangerie over the road and in the Casino superette a few doors down. Jack and I lunched in a bus shelter beside the old railway line in La Gare, after a 15-20 kilometre due south run, virtually car-free, through the pines, during which two red deer jumped out. R and N ran miles at 19 mph. We commented at Captieux that we were spoilt for choice of boulangeries, cafes and shops whereas other towns would be just as likely to be closed for the day!<br>
Then Roquefort/Sarbazan, Villeneuve-de-Marsan etc. Riding through the Landes on quiet roads much of the way. Traffic on final approach to <i>N’Atura Hotel</i>, 28, avenue du 4 septembre, Aire-sur-l'Adour 40800. Tel +33558716617. Good digs by the river, beers on arrival, suitable for cyclists (others in residence, also pilgrims on Compostella walk). The circus is in town and exotic animals, including camels, are grazing on the riverside. Walk into town across the bridge. Dining at <i>La Villa Toscane</i>, 33 Rue Carnot, Aire-sur-l'Adour, Aquitaine. Further failure to find <i>Floc de Gascogne</i>, otherwise good. €138.40 for four.<br>
<b>Fri 20 May:</b> To Pau (40 miles). Long climb out of Aire to reach D834. First views of the Pyrenees. The boys go bushwhacking. First of three long drops beyond Garlin. Turn off to Saint-Armou. Via D206 to warm welcome at <i>Bar Restaurant Le Castine</i>, Saint Castin (Perrier and Orangina); then Maucor, Morlaàs. Charging downhill, elated to arrive at the Pau sign. Then stopped on final approach, in parkette on Avenue Général Leclerc, for snack and waiting for tour party to catch up.<br>
3 nights <i>Logis Hotel le Bourbon</i>, 12, Place Clémenceau, Pau, 64000. Tel +33559275312. Breakfast €7.80. Comfy digs, ideally situated close to <i>Boulevard des Pyrénées</i> and race track. Late night revellers a nuisance to some.<br>
Pete Webber arrives via London City Airport, Orly and Pau. Under doctors orders to restrict alcohol intake. He kindly brought a copy of <i>Autosport</i> from the UK featuring the Hamilton/Rosberg <i>carambolage</i> in Spain.<br>
Meanwhile beers on arrival at a curious organic bar in the Rue Valéry Meunier. The boys went to the circuit while I had a further quiet beer outside at bar <i>Les Contrebandiers</i>, 12 rue Gachet, near the hotel.<br>
I meet Iain Rowley and Paul Jenkins on their way back from the track. They are staying at our hotel and provide race tickets for the bicycle tour party. It is just amazing how fair people can be!<br>
First evening at Cambodian restaurant <i>Sorya</i>, 1 Bis Rue des Orphelines, 64000 Pau.<br>
Saturday morning: In the paddock at Pau races in glorious sunshine. Photography, note-taking and making new friends. Saturday afternoon: Jack, Pete and I took the <i>Coxitis</i> electric bus, free, to <i>Le Supervie Bar Brasserie</i>, Rue Noghé, Pau. Saturday evening: Restaurant Tagliatella, 8 Rue Gachet, 64000 Pau.<br>
Sunday morning: Enjoyed Formula Junior race in the rain at La Gare. Then Bistrot La Salle, Eurl.Lucas et Fils, 6, Avenue Gaston Lacoste, 64000 Pau. By the race track, a marvelous bolt-hole on a soaking wet day. Good nosebag: <i>Merguez et Frites</i>.<br>
Sunday evening: after snooze late pasta supper at Etna, 16 Rue du Château, 64000 Pau. Even later tapas, for Nigel, round the corner from the hotel. Watching drag racing on the big screen.<br>
<b>Mon 23rd May:</b> By <i>Funiculaire</i> to Pau Station. 1st class train to London via Bordeaux, Paris. 07.52 from Pau; arr 10.15 Bordeaux St Jean, snacks at Café opposite the station, retreating in a downpour; TGV dep 11.28; arr 15.18 Paris Montparnasse; ride across Paris cutting it fine for Eurostar dep 17.01 Paris Nord, non-stop for St Pancras, 18.32.<br>
<br>
<b>Total:</b> 583 miles approx.<br>
<br>
<b>King of the Mountains:</b> Nigel Lewis.<br>
<b>Most improved young rider:</b> Richard Banks.<br>
<b>Domestique:</b> Jack Kellett (for planning ahead and saving our bacon with catering services).<br>
<b>Lanterne Rouge:</b> Rupert Lloyd Thomas.<br>
<br>
<b>Plus Points:</b> Minimal luggage; GPS navigation/direction finding; weather mostly good (some wet but not too hot); health benefits (the gift that keeps on giving). Bromptons generally reliable. Mobile phone mitigated separations. Painkillers (Ibuprofen).<br>
<b>Downsides:</b> Punctures (crevaison). Getting separated particularly late in the day when fatigued; cycle paths a mixed bag; too much bushwhacking. (Forgot my sunglasses.)<br>
<b>Learning points:</b> The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre a must for touring, particularly beneficial on rear wheel. Should save on downtime. Carry spray jollop as backup. Need to feed.<br>
<b>Overall:</b> Longest, toughest tour yet, but felt good to be alive.<br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-1925667225474815682016-03-22T12:32:00.000-04:002016-04-07T16:15:05.021-04:00Full throttle at Revs<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBi0cjZF2jioNUHxrf8e-YaVYj5QxinwX0AVWhIVvKrr9AZcr7VV_jx7-Y7y8VYXGkqkJ4I4zOcwDuvKM_QH6TP09cAbZCUypfJv2GRSEgkkD6Hzw7PXz7Dxh4pKoNLTEj8HWh/s1600/DSCF0827.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBi0cjZF2jioNUHxrf8e-YaVYj5QxinwX0AVWhIVvKrr9AZcr7VV_jx7-Y7y8VYXGkqkJ4I4zOcwDuvKM_QH6TP09cAbZCUypfJv2GRSEgkkD6Hzw7PXz7Dxh4pKoNLTEj8HWh/s320/DSCF0827.JPG" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by ALT.</small><br>
I first visited Florida in 1972, when I hitchhiked there from Washington D.C., and have been there, on and off, ever since.<br>
<b>Sat 12 March</b><br>
Dep 16:50 Air Canada from Toronto Pearson Terminal 1 (YYZ) to South-West Florida International Airport (RSW).
Pickup blue Hyundai Accent rental car at Alamo, Fort Myers Airport. The lady at the check-in desk insists I look like Donald Trump. I wonder what training course she attended?<br>
Via I75 to check-in at Ramada Naples. Late supper at the <i>Cheesecake Factory</i>, 1900 Tamiami Trail, veggie burger, pasta, $34.80, $40.11 incl tip.<br>
<b>Sun 13 March</b><br>
To Downtown Naples, drive around, park at 5th Avenue. Walk to lunch at "The Café" 821 5th Ave South, fruit yoghurt, ham and brie Panini, $26.98 plus tip. A touch precious for our taste.<br>
To Publix grocery, 1981 Tamiami Trail, shopping $64.34, including 750 ml Lindemans Pinot Grigio $5.99, "Dixie Lily" quick grits $1.35 (to take back to Canada).
Supper at the hotel room including Entenmann's Lemon Cake.
Pitstop at <i>Pompano Surf & Turf</i> (the hotel bar), three pints Bud Light $10.50, plus an 18% service charge which comes standard, baffling to European visitors. A good old boy is sat at the bar, in his eighties, complaining about an underdone burger. He tells the bar staff to fire the chef. They give him a slice of cheesecake to placate him, which he donates to Annette. Turns out he had worked in Toronto managing the Claussen pickle factory, back when Hogtown made things. He used to stay at the King Eddie Hotel.<br>
<b>Mon 14 March</b><br>
To the <a href="http://revsinstitute.org/">Revs Institute</a>, also known as the Collier Collection, for 09:00 research appointment.<br>
This is a stunning facility dedicated to preserving the history of the motor car. The phrase "World Class" is overused, particularly by a certain Toronto politician, but applies in this case.<br>
Put simply the museum has a car collection; facilities for restoring and maintaining the cars; plus a document, photograph and film library.<br>
We talk to Paul about the provenance of an AC Cobra he is researching. Could the steering wheel have switched sides?
A bunch of guys are lamenting the quality of petrol used at Le Mans in the nineteen thirties. One of them does not want to let a precious document out of his sight. This is petrolhead heaven.<br>
I particularly admire a silver 1962 Lotus Elite Series II SE, Serial No. EB 1661, registration 300 TKK. We book to visit the car collection on Thursday.<br>
Lunch at <i>Spanky's</i>, 1550 Airport Road North, is recommended to us. Soup, Tuna Melt, Chili, sitting among the memorabilia. We stop at Walgreen's for Flossups, $8 sunglasses for Annette and find Goldenberg's Peanut Chews. (Walgreen's are taking over Rite-Aid, our favourite U.S. pharmacy, so now we know they will be in good hands.) To <i>Barnes & Noble</i>, 5377 Tamiami Trail, $29.68 for two <i>Lemony Snicket</i> hardbacks. Back at <i>Pompano Surf & Turf</i> Annette orders a Keylime Pie.<br>
<b>Tues 15 March</b><br>
To the <i>Waffle House</i>, 6531 Dudley Drive, for cooked breakfast including grits, $20 for two including tip. The Waffle House is reassuringly familiar - you could be in <a href="http://punchbuggy.blogspot.ca/2012/03/way-down-in-bowling-green.html">Brooks, Kentucky</a>, <a href="http://smartcar.blogspot.ca/2013/08/chuggabug-tour-day-8-springfield-mo-to.html">St. Robert, Missouri</a> or <a href="http://punchbuggy.blogspot.ca/2012/08/elvis-and-tammy.html">Tupelo, Mississippi</a> - stops on previous tours. Annette tops it off with raisin toast and apple butter.<br>
We drive on to the Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary, 375 Sanctuary Road West, run by the Audubon Society, $24 for two, $2 off coupon, no tax applied (plus $3 for one binocular rental). "Welcome to the swamp."<br> Worthwhile guided tour, lasting 90 minutes, conducted by knowledgeable volunteer docent. Unseasonal rain in January means that the swamp is much wetter than normal, affecting the breeding habits of the Wood Stork. They are apparently giving it a miss for the second year in a row. We hear of the devastating effects of an estimated 10,000 Burmese pythons, rampaging through south Florida and killing 90-95% of the small mammals and birds of the Everglades. They are thought to have originated from a Homestead, Florida, petstore set free during a hurricane. This shows the folly of allowing the import of exotic pets. Attempts to stamp them out are proving futile.<br>
After a coastal tour among the highrise apartments at Vanderbilt Beach we are hungry. We stop at <i>Cibao Grille</i> where the patron triumphantly announces they are closed for lunch at 13:30. We retreat next door to <i>Rosati's</i>, a Chicago-style Pizza Restaurant, at 818 Neapolitan Way. The reception is altogether more convivial. The lady running the place is from Wheaton, Illinois. We order the special, a large mushroom Pizza to share, with unsweet iced tea. $24.37 plus tip.<br>
<b>Wed 16 March</b><br>
Get some cash at First Florida Integrity Bank, 895 Fifth Avenue South. To 5th Avenue Coffee Company & 6th Street Diner, for morning coffee and cookie. Spacious corner location, pleasant atmosphere midweek with reasonable prices. Reading the <i>Naples Daily News</i>. Earlier we saw a McLaren supercar parked outside.<br>
After a stroll we took lunch at the newly-opened <i>Crispy Seafood & Wine Bar</i>. This proved to be a mixed bag. The wait staff were green. There was no iced tea, a $5 fail for two of us, and lady customers were being advised to use the gents as their washroom was out-of-order, not something you wish to contemplate while lunching. The food however was excellent.<br>
I move on to Tin City, some old sheds selling souvenirs, by the water. I met up with my nephew Owen and family, reflecting on how we both managed to be in Naples at the same time.
On return to the parking garage I saw what appeared to be an abandoned vehicle next to mine, with extensive rear damage, door open and files or folders on the passenger seat. Nobody was about apart from somebody sitting in a nearby SUV. Not wishing to become part of an incident I beat the retreat.<br>
<b>Thurs 17 March</b><br>
For breakfast we drive to <i>360 Market</i>, 2891 Bayview Drive, a trendy restaurant by a boat dock. They have a Vince Lombardi quote on the wall, something like: "I am not remotely interested in just being good."<br> California Benedict for Annette, Fryup for me, $36 plus tip.
Then to Naples Botanical Gardens, total $27.90 for two, $1 off coupon. Two green parakeets entertain us in the parking lot. Strolling round this splendid place is relaxing but pay heed to the gator warning signs. We have a quick snack back at <i>Spanky's</i>, 1550 Airport Road North.
At 12:00 we are due at Revs. We produce our booking number at the cash desk. The lady says that number has been cancelled. We all are momentarily puzzled but then she recalls we are to get in free! So begins a marvelous tour of the car collection. The core collections are the cars of Briggs Cunningham and a <i>sammlung</i> of Porsches, including an Elva-Porsche, built in Sussex. Everybody is most gracious, showing us behind the scenes, including the workshops and the library. Quote: "Nobody gets in the library!" We head out with a Briggs Cunningham mug on the house!<br>
The swamp, the botanical gardens and Revs have something in common: donations and volunteers.<br>
To <i>Grouper and Chips</i>, 338 9th Street North, we share a crabcake starter and two-piece grouper basket with chips. Recommended.<br>
Back at <i>Pompano Surf & Turf</i> I chat to Greg at the bar, a Porsche fan, who is unaware of the <i>kampfgruppe</i> from Stuttgart nearby. He vows to visit Revs soon.<br>
<b>Fri 18 March</b><br>
Drive south to Marco Island.
Having enjoyed the 5th Avenue Coffee Company in Naples we call at their store at 740 North Collier Boulevard, Marco Island. The boss meets us outside afterwards and thanks us for stopping by. While enjoying breakfast outdoors we have spotted Winn Dixie across the street: "Proudly serving the southeast since 1925." We cannot resist a visit, acquiring the ingredients for crab rolls and "cheese flavor" grits to tuck in our luggage. You can't beat a good groceteria.<br>
We have our sandqwiches at Caxambas Park Marina, a small boat launch, where we see pelicans, egrets up close and, in the distance, dolphins.
Evening meal at <i>Cosmos Ristorante and Pizzeria</i>, 536 Tamiami Trail. A Sardinian restaurant: Calamari starter, Pasta Special (Fettuccine with seafood), Risotto al Salmone. Good for a last night treat but a bit spendy at $83.92 including tip. Walking distance from the hotel so we saved on cab fare and I could enjoy an $8 glass of wine.<br>
<b>Sat 19 March</b><br>
Depart hotel at 05:20. I have chosen the option to return the car to the airport empty so we are hypermiling just in case. We pass Pelican Landing, Bonita Springs on Hwy 41, turning right at Corkscrew Road. Arrive at airport 06:07 for the flight to the frozen north. The holiday has ended all too soon.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-9353625913019490062016-03-02T17:45:00.000-05:002016-03-02T17:46:02.276-05:00Fares slashed to save UP ExpressThe inevitable fare reductions on the UP Express Train, linking downtown Toronto to Pearson Airport, come into effect on 9 March 2016. The <i><a href="http://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/toronto/head-of-struggling-airport-train-to-be-moved-from-role/article29003930/">Globe and Mail</a></i> has the story. Just as <i><a href="http://punchbuggy.blogspot.ca/2015/07/trains-running-on-empty.html">PunchBuggy</a></i> predicted last July fares have been slashed. The premium service is toast and the scapegoating has started. Uber anyone? They didn't see it coming. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-64884354343090684442016-01-01T11:39:00.003-05:002016-01-01T11:42:15.780-05:00Old dog learns new tricks<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVTM-EEJ7YPP2Isf6-pQSLkQZ5YPgvEIq09WMx96KgkGrQg16ISHVUcwCLfGVqcvEC9h1W5P8FgE8KnIhVsMcjBw9HNON3h8KBbLxvSF2Fj3_kRtOkkQ3Y5_6gOpKrQkZGOJz/s1600/Kart_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBVTM-EEJ7YPP2Isf6-pQSLkQZ5YPgvEIq09WMx96KgkGrQg16ISHVUcwCLfGVqcvEC9h1W5P8FgE8KnIhVsMcjBw9HNON3h8KBbLxvSF2Fj3_kRtOkkQ3Y5_6gOpKrQkZGOJz/s320/Kart_1.jpg" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by John Lawrence.</small><br>
One of the highlights of 2015 was kart racing at Downsview, Toronto, at the end of January. Part of a stag night, most of the drivers were less than half my age. I qualified eighth out of nine. Pathetic. I spoke to the pole-sitter about the correct lines to take and determined to drive through the field come race time. I thought some of the others were bound to crash and determined to keep it off the guardrails. The plan worked and I drove through the pack to third place. Not bad for an old git!
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-8680071573400017702016-01-01T11:14:00.003-05:002016-01-01T11:16:34.303-05:00Moving on...<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8k_XzSr796OnUuaVQIKrAwlY6Ne3MlWxU4Fr_cfOIrW2ySM3IFvv2r-JXV6gjFsC3TX5-ZgS-FBPlQ9kozTQEyhjXIaPgpLdITv9nA0u3AUr9RWnkoV-892b-fOoDVWThmNsL/s1600/Trip_Uhaul.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8k_XzSr796OnUuaVQIKrAwlY6Ne3MlWxU4Fr_cfOIrW2ySM3IFvv2r-JXV6gjFsC3TX5-ZgS-FBPlQ9kozTQEyhjXIaPgpLdITv9nA0u3AUr9RWnkoV-892b-fOoDVWThmNsL/s320/Trip_Uhaul.JPG" /></a><br>On 13th December we took a U-Haul cargo van to Guelph to deliver some furniture, surplus to requirements because we are moving. Near the rental place in Toronto we came across this Jaguar restoration shop:
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjAXsRbVtXepy-CpSQ3aCktt62PYjz5FwkJdyfADnc4od4k_5urVNa1H8gmK_dAnKMzNDf_mQJ1mbLzn1-BOB0Nq-t_4zI_f82e0sm8-0CTGsgi2lmRHRqHN1l-y2Wu6P4jWMa/s1600/Trip_Jaguar.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjAXsRbVtXepy-CpSQ3aCktt62PYjz5FwkJdyfADnc4od4k_5urVNa1H8gmK_dAnKMzNDf_mQJ1mbLzn1-BOB0Nq-t_4zI_f82e0sm8-0CTGsgi2lmRHRqHN1l-y2Wu6P4jWMa/s320/Trip_Jaguar.JPG" /></a><br>
<small>Pics by RLT.</small>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-88503026466411379692015-08-30T14:11:00.001-04:002015-09-04T08:08:07.372-04:00IGS tour – part 2<b>Switzerland</b><br>
31 JULY: Dresden to Zurich, Swiss Flight LX915, Dep 9:20, Arr 10:45.<br>
My birthday. We took an early 07:00 taxi (Toyota Prius) to Dresden (rhymes with Neasden) airport. This is quiet with few flights. Croissant and baguette breakfast. Short and uneventful flight to Zurich, where you are in the shops before you know it.<br>
Zurich Flughafen to Zurich HB: Train 718 IC, Dep 12:13, Arr 12:23.<br>
Zurich HB to Luzern, TRN 2647, Dep 12:35, Arr 13:25.<br>
Annette forages for snacks while I guard the luggage.<br>
Luzern to Interlaken Ost: Train 2928, Dep 14:05, Arr 15:55.<br>
Climb through the Brünig Mountain Pass, then via Meiringen.<br>
On arrival for six nights at Best Western Bernerhof Hotel, Bahnhofstrasse 16, Interlaken, phone 33 826 7676, incl breakfast. This is adjacent to the Interlaken West railway and bus stations, and convenient for quick getaways. The hotel issues a ‘free’ bus pass for local travel. Birthday supper at <i>Per Bacco</i>, Rugenparkstrasse 2, 3800 Interlaken, near the station, incl Port wine.<br>
It is soon apparent that staying in Interlaken is a mistake – the city is so cosmopolitan that there is little Swiss about it – not at all like a previous visit. We resolve to explore the surrounding villages.<br>
Saturday take the #103 post bus to Iseltwald. Walk by the lake, birds and ducks, then uphill on the <i>Wanderweg</i>. Return by bus to Bönigen, The Edelweiss airship is circling overhead. Back in town we ride the Funiculaire to a picnic on the <i>Wanderweg</i>, enjoying a free bottled beer handed out in town. It is Swiss National Day and there is a parade in the afternoon. Later a beer stop at a wine bar, fireworks.<br>
Sunday we take the bus to Ringgenberg, changing to the train for Brienz, to ride the Brienz Rothorn Bahn (BRB) to Planalp. We do not go all the way to the top as it is cheaper and less frightening, although the ride through the <i>fluhs</i> is quite hair-raising. This is a rack-railway using the Abt system, our engine being a diesel-fuelled steam engine from 1991, built by SLM Winterthur. At Planalp we walk three minutes to a café, crowded with a hiking <i>grupo</i>, for coffee and peppermint tea. A railway <i>fundi</i> gives us a copy of <i>Dampfblatt</i>, a newsletter for BRB volunteers.
Lunch at a lakeside restaurant in Brienz, generally good but charged 3 euro for a glass of tap water. <i>Walz</i> tea room & restaurant & hotel, 3855 Brienz, 42.70 Sfr. Best avoided. Back in Interlaken picnic supper on a bench, followed by Bärner Müntschi beer at Hüsi Bierhaus, not too blokey.<br>
Monday bus ride to Thun. Police posters warning of pickpockets. Shopping for batteries, book. Teashop outdoors at Loeb/Schönholzer’s. Picnic on park bench then walk to the Schloss. Bus to Spiez Hauptbahnhof, walk downhill to the lakeshore, boat ride to Interlaken West on <i>MS Bubenberg</i>, tea and two beer trip, 15.10 euro. Snack supper from Konditorei.<br>
Tueday early bus to Beatenberg, a twenty-minute hair-raising ride into the mountains. Walk back from end of the line to Bel-aire tea room, on the terrasse. Bus back down mountain, switch to the #103 for lunch at the Strandhotel, Iseltwald. Lunch with local Rugenbräu beer and Ramseier Süessmost (Jus de Pomme), 50.60 euro. 13:28 bus back to town. Short bus ride to Unterseen, for the Touristik-Museum-der-Jungfrau-Region. Interesting feature re the first Thomas Cook's Tour of Switzerland, 25 June-16 July 1863.<br>
Wednesday bus #105 to Wilderswil, change to BOB train for Lauterbrunnen. Bought a bike shirt for 50 Sfr. Walk to Staubbachfall, a waterfall which inspired Goethe and Byron. There is nobody about, we have the place to ourselves. In the scramble for the <i>Jungfraujoch</i> the grockles have missed a peach. More ruminations on the nature of mass tourism. Continue on up the valley before hopping bus #141 to the Stechelberg Hotel. Annette enjoys an <i>apfelstrudel</i> with vanilla sauce. Walk back down the valley to Lauterbrunnen, about seven miles in all. Laundry at Thai Restaurant. Supper at Altes Hüsi Bierhaus, burgers and drinks, 39.90 Sfr.<br>
06 AUG: DB ICE 08:05 from Interlaken to Thun (destination Berlin), change for Burgdorf, for pleasant diversion through the Emmenthal. Arriving Burgdorf there is a large 'F bomb' in graffiti on final approach, the station itself lacks name boards, you could be anywhere. Extensive bike racks, coffee at pavement café. Then local train to Bern.<br>
6 Aug to 9 Aug: Wild Rose B & B, Mayweg 7, 3007 Bern, Switzerland +41 31 331 44 72. From Stn #3 tram dir Weissenbühl, 5th stop Beaumont. Lunch in Restaurant Terrasse, Eigerplatz 5; 37.90 Sfr. In evening ride in VW Golf to Restaurant Mänziwilegg, 3068 Utzigen. Spectacular views looking south, with outdoor cowbell chorus.<br>
Next morning we went to find the old <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BliBTWGCpVA">Bremgarten motor racing circuit</a> in Bern.<br>
Tram to town then rented bicycles (first four hours free), at Hirschengraben, near the Hauptbahnhof, for the short ride to the old Bremgarten circuit. While the park remains, there was nothing to tell that Grand Prix cars used to race there in the fifties and before WW2. The old circuit has been severed by a motorway and the park seems much more overgrown than in the film.<br>
Return bikes and take #10 bus to the Rosengarten, overlooking the city. Restaurant Rosengarten, Alter Aargauerstalden 318, 3006 Bern. 57 Sfr for two, lunch special outstanding, Felsenau – Mein Berner Bier. To the Altstadt where the Busker Festival features a kids show. Roland Zoss and the Bandidos are singing a song about muesli. Supper at Toscana Ristorante Pizzeria, Seftigenstrasse 27, 3007 Bern.<br>
Next day by car to Gruyères, a cheesy hilltop town, with a French accent (free parking). On the way we visited the <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1n45W5YtkdU">La Roche-La Berra</a> hill climb course.<br>
Return via Fribourg, walking in the old town and down a long stairway to the River Aare. Snack lunch at Café Bar Les Falaises, Rue de Neuveville 37; 39.70 Sfr for three. The chatty lady in charge spoke of hard times in the tourist trade.<br> Back in Bern to the Brocki (thrift store) where I scored a Bodum coffee cup, a Lancia wrench, a Stahlwille socket and a Langnauer Keramik butter dish for Annette, 4 Sfr.<br>
09 AUG: After morning stroll in Bern, DB ICE train dep 13:04, arr 13:59 in Basel.<br>
Steinenschanze Stadthotel, Steinengraben 69, 4051 Basel +41612725353. (#30 bus from Stn.) We stayed here last year and were glad to be back. Last time we failed to see the Rhine River, so we took the #30 bus and walked along the towpath some distance. Tram hopping. Supper at the Stadthof Basel, Gerbergasse 84, 4001 Basel; 72.60 Sfr. Walked back to hotel.<br>
10 AUG: Dep Bern on #30 bus to Hauptbahnhof, change onto #50 bus to airport. Short Lufthansa flight BASEL – FRANKFURT, V LH 1203, Dep 11:05, arr 12:05.<br>
Frankfurt Airport is ghastly – buses, a train, walkways, escalators and miles to walk. (The employees ride bicycles.) Delays. The customs man confiscates my small Lancia wrench, with a sadistic look that only his breed can conjure.<br>
Condor flight FRANKFURT – TORONTO, DE 1060, Dep 14:05, arr 17:05 (9:00h). The passengers in front keep tilting their seats, tipping all my stuff on the floor, including a meal, four times during the flight. YYZ is an utter shambles on arrival – the customs hall being busier than ever. The trip ends badly.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-18425672580656714012015-08-19T20:17:00.000-04:002015-08-30T15:20:13.653-04:00IGS Tour - part 1For our summer tour this year we decided on a trip to Iceland, Germany and Switzerland. We booked everything ourselves online.<br>
<br>
<b>Iceland</b><br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqLZK2bOlYlZ_cwpMyrLUvoBsUBY41cHjNMe16s3-kaO5Td5UKaUSKTW6_f7I7yoXhgoadoo8ryRmIjVP81MkB-87J_TgUIQP4FsXazhB93GnjQBF2vXIm7ttV35OpMTxjLRu/s1600/DSCF9684.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqLZK2bOlYlZ_cwpMyrLUvoBsUBY41cHjNMe16s3-kaO5Td5UKaUSKTW6_f7I7yoXhgoadoo8ryRmIjVP81MkB-87J_TgUIQP4FsXazhB93GnjQBF2vXIm7ttV35OpMTxjLRu/s320/DSCF9684.JPG" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by ALT.</small><br>
20 JULY: Icelandair Flight FI600 from Toronto YYZ to Keflavik KEF, Dep 14:25, Arrival 23:40.<br>
Scored two free Gull beers on the flight. The hostess realised she forgot to charge me and said: "They are on the house." On arrival at Keflavik we find we have to queue in a ramshackle shed for a full security check which includes searching my luggage. These folks have been on a training course behind the Iron Curtain - a sharp contrast with later arrivals at Hamburg and Zurich. Iceland is marketed as a "stopover" between North America and Europe. They need to up their game.<br>
We rush to catch a Gray Line bus to Reykjavik, about 45 minutes, where we are decanted into a minibus for delivery to our accomodation at 02:00, efficient. I check the neighbourhood for possible supper, no chance.
Villa Skolavordustigur 30, 101 Reykjavik, phone +3548231268, 20 to 23 July. Basic digs: no television, phone or breakfast. Not cheap. Located near Hallsgrimskirkja Church which is visible from most parts of Reykjavik.
Walk downhill to breakfast at Prikid, est. 1951, corner of Bankastraati/Ingolfstraati. Trading as oldest cafe/bar in Iceland, restaurant shabby and unhygienic. Fluffy omelet good, extra Lavazza coffee. Friendly enough, not cheap. Stroll in downtown which shows signs of mass tourism with <i>grupos</i> etc. There is not much traffic and English is spoken everywhere. We head for the harbour which evokes memories of the cod wars. Trawlers and tourist boats. We take a boat ride to Viðey island, 1,100 Krona each for round trip. On the way we see the cruise ship <i>MSC Splendida</i> and a rather smaller cruiser called www.aida.de. Earlier we have spotted this URL on bicycles in the town, presumably belonging to the ship. There is not much at Viðey island besides an improbable memorial to John Lennon - no accounting for taste. At one time "the only railway in Iceland" was here. We take a pot of tea served by girls who are bored rigid. Birds are the highlight.<br>
Back in town we walk to <a href="http://www.bonus.is/supermarket">Bonus</a> supermarket to acquire snacks, then Sjaverbarrin, Grandagardi 9-101 for fish and chips, near the Maritime Museum, including grandma's fish cakes and Gull beer. Annette scores a Moomintroll mug near our hotel.<br>
Next morning to Tourist Information to book Gray Line bus for 04:30 pickup. We report our impressions of the airport. I suggest they take the staff to Las Vegas to show them how an airport should be run. You could lose a bundle on the slots in LV before clearing customs at Keflavik.<br>
Breakfast at the vaguely hip Laundromat Cafe, Austurstræti 9: "Please don't love us on Facebook, like us in life!" We did like them, but they need to heat the hot breakfast plates and make more use of bar trays. Coffee refill. By the way the laundry is in the basement.<br>
We walk past the duckponds where I rescue litter including a floating vodka bottle. (I still suffer remorse at failing to rescue a beer bottle in St. Moritz.) Annette spots a house used as a film location in the movie <i>Life in a Fishbowl</i>. We walk on to the National Museum where we score free entry as their payment card gizmo is not working. There is not much about Iceland in WW2, when the Brits were here. The nearby domestic airport in Reykjavik was built at that time.
Walk via wetlands and airport to the <a href="http://www.visitreykjavik.is/pearl">Pearl</a>.
This water tower has great views in all directions, entrance free. There is graffiti in Reykjavik, but also cycle paths with bridges that put Toronto to shame. Walk back to Icelandic Cafe Loki, nr Hallsgrimskirkja Church, for lunch, 5,090 Króna. We then walked down to the harbour and hopped a bus into town, changing for a run round the projects to Háholt and return, great views. Evening supper at Eldsmiðjan Pizza Place, Bragagata 38a (Freyjugata), Miõborg, 101 Reykjavik. Three-storey pizzeria with glacial service, share large pizza with two Thule beers, 5,685 Króna.<br>
Next morning early start to Keflavik airport, which is running over capacity. The designer evidently didn't know about departure lounges so you stand in a corridor as other passengers fight their way past. Arrivals and departures aren't segregated so everybody is bumping into everybody else. Some of the above may be due to reconstruction. Catering satisfactory.<br>
Would I go back to Reykjavik again? Probably not. If you have the time and inclination to travel outside the city that might be different.
For Keflavik airport, <a href="http://www.airlinequality.com/airport-reviews/keflavik-airport/">4/10 overall</a>. This is supposed to be a holiday - cross it off your list - too much hassle getting in and out.<br>
<br>
<b>Germany</b><br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe21cHgtfHNVKxR9COqdm37g4oK8GJiQb2yyanxueRFRWIW-L8lzdUvqSLdY0Se9r1WNPJXeSy0xuGLmtk_Xti9h3GLp5KiC4M6y_NM0otf9XVU3rKlR8vd8YKVcuZYtjQ_ZC5/s1600/DSCF9851.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe21cHgtfHNVKxR9COqdm37g4oK8GJiQb2yyanxueRFRWIW-L8lzdUvqSLdY0Se9r1WNPJXeSy0xuGLmtk_Xti9h3GLp5KiC4M6y_NM0otf9XVU3rKlR8vd8YKVcuZYtjQ_ZC5/s320/DSCF9851.JPG" /></a><br>
<small>Trabant in Berlin, pic by RLT.</small><br>
23 JULY: Icelandair Flight FI510 from KEF to HAM, Dep 07:50, Arr 13:05.
We are through Hamburg Airport in a heartbeat and hop the 'S' Bahn to the Hauptbahnhof. It is very busy so after activating our Eurail Regional Pass we retreat into nearby <i>Galeria Kaufhof</i> for a snack lunch. Hamburg to Hanover: ICE Train 771, Dep 15:24, Arr 16:38, the train runs 36 minutes late.
Three nights at Central-hotel Kaiserhof, Ernst-august-platz 4, 30159 Hanover. The hotel is opposite the magnificent station across a large square. Comfortably old fashioned but the location is a mixed blessing, being very noisy in our room overlooking the <i>platz</i>. Among the delights are tuner cars peeling out at all hours. The trams aren't running here due to road works. Evening on the <i>terrasse</i> with Bitburger beer, watching the world go by. (I used to be a regular visitor to Hanover for Cebit, the computer exhibition, while at the Post Office.)<br>
Next day we took the 'U' Bahn from Kroepcke to Herrenhausen. <i>TagesGruppenTicket</i> 9.60 euro for 1 Zone. A scumbag tried to rob Annette at the 'U' Bahn station, fortunately unsuccessfully. We have come to see the Palace (rebuilt, it was bombed flat in 1943) and Gardens, of the Hanoverian Royals.The museum at Herrenhausen says the Allies targeted the Palace, as if we could have been that accurate. It was just bad luck all round.
A replica calculating machine attributed to Gottfried Wilhelm Leibniz from 1693 was the source of much fascination. Spendy lunch at the Gottfried Wilhelm Schlossküche. Stroll round the Berggarten and Georgengarten.<br>
We consulted tourist information in town where a man carefully explained it was impossible to visit the Schloss Marienburg by public transit. He underestimated us. It did take all morning but we got there on three buses, departing the crummy suburb of Steintor, and arriving at 12:00. <i>TagesGruppenTicket</i> 15.10 euro for 3 Zones. Two guided tours and a torrential downpour later, we head back on the 14:15 #310/300 bus all the way to Hanover ZOB (Zentraler Omnibus Bahnhof), a short walk from our hotel.<br>
Supper at Mövenpick Kroepcke, Georgstrasse 35, 30159 Hannover; 47.60 euro.<br>
26 JULY: Hanover to Berlin: Train 1645 ICE Dep 11: 31, Arr 13:08. Delayed, Dep 12:14. We gain access to the first class lounge (we are turned away in Hamburg and Berlin). Like in <i>Animal Farm</i> some first class passengers are more important than others.<br>
Both Hamburg-Hannover and Hannover-Berlin trains delayed so far. The once mighty ICE trains now have faded paintwork, some with graffiti, and run when they feel like it. The Germans have caught the British disease.<br>
Arrive Berlin Hauptbahnhof and take taxi to three nights at Ameron Hotel Abion Spreebogen, Alt-Moabit 99, Berlin +49-30-399200. Outstanding value at approx $100 CDN per night, quiet room overlooking River Spree. Hard to fault. Quick reconnaissance of neighbourhood, locating nearby Bellevue 'S' Bahn station across the river. Turns out we are staying in the old British sector. Supper outdoors at Lanninger, the hotel restaurant.<br>
Next morning walk by River Spree to Mitte (city centre) and Reichstag, Brandenburg Gate, Unter den Linden, Pariser Platz, and Potsdamer Platz. We take the 'U' Bahn to Eberwalder Strasse, exit Danziger Strasse, to <a href="https://berlinonbike.de/"><i>Berlin on Bike</i></a> in an old brewery complex.<br>
Take an escorted bike ride round the sights, 15 km, 19 euros each. I choose SRAM (ex-Sachs) three-speed step-through with rear coaster brake for tour. Here, and in Hannover, Sachs lives on with many survivors and also SRAM 3-speeds everywhere. Flat country makes them very suitable - hardly any hills in Berlin and bikes everywhere - bike lanes throughout. Typical bike hire is 10-14 euro per day and bike stands are everywhere.
Bought the book <i>Dresden, Tuesday 13 February 1945</i> by Frederick Taylor, re the bombing, at: St. George's English Book Shop, Wörther Str. 27, 10405 Berlin. Tram to Alexanderplatz, 'S' Bahn to hotel.<br>
Next morning walk to laundry at Freddy Leck sein Waschsalon, Gotzkowskystraße 11, Berlin.
Spotted eight 2CVs rallying at Ernst Reuter Platz, also Trabant, smart roadster, Ape etc. Outdoor breakfast at Manufactum brot&butter Berlin, Hardenbergstraße 4-5,10623 Berlin, 17.00 euro for two. Walk on to the Zoo, Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtnis-Kirche and Kurfürstendamm.<br>
Took train from the Zoo to Potsdam. Bought <i>tageskarte<i></i></i> - day ticket go anywhere on bus, tram and train.
On arrival the buses at the Hauptbahhof for Sans Souci Royal Palace are heavily oversubscribed with <i>grupo</i> leaders queue barging, so we walk back in the direction of Babelsberg, enjoying the <i>Deutsche Bahn Werk</i> ruin porn. We pick up the #94 tram to <i>Schloß Charlottenhof</i> which is relatively uncrowded. After a walk in the park we ride on a free red golf cart to Sans Souci. The driver is delighted to be compared to Sebastian Vettel. After tea in town we return to Berlin, via Babelsberg.<br>
Dinner for two with wine 30 euro approx at Lombardi Pizzeria, down the street from hotel.<br>
29 JULY: Berlin to Dresden: Train 175 EC, Dep 10:46, Arr 13:13. We spent some time at Berlin Hauptbahnhof, one of the modern wonders of the railway world. Arriving at the historic Dresden Hauptbahnhof we took two trams to the hotel, which should have been easy to find but wasn't. The Elbe river is nearby.
Two nights at Dresden Hilton, An der Frauenkirche 5, Altstadt, Dresden, 01067, +493518642700.<br>
After time out we fitted in a quick visit to the transport museum at a reduced price with one hour to go. Verkehrs Museum, Augustusstraße 1, 01067 Dresden.
There are cars, motorbikes, mopeds and bicycles of East German origin that you are unlikely to see elsewhere.
Some suited gentlemen are demonstrating the <a href="http://scrooser.com/">Scrooser</a> in the square.<br>
Supper at the Bistro-Hilton Dresden, 34.80 euro.<br>
Up early next morning exploring I found myself in a McCafe - the only place open. We ride the #4 tram trying to find Radebeul-Ost. We overshot and back tracked two stops on the 'S' Bahn. Here we found the old Deutsche Reichsbahn steam train to Radeburg. Time for a top-notch breakfast at Dresdner Backhaus, Sidonienstr, Radebeul, Sachsen, 16.10 euro for two, arguably the breakfast of the tour.
The <i>Lößnitzgrundbahn</i> is a narrow-gauge line, and I marvel at the thought of riding a steam train through the East German countryside.
Time for a quick coffee with a friendly steam <i>fundi</i> at Radeburg, then we back track to Moritzburg. A route march into town and quick visit to the Käthe Kollwitz <i>haus</i>, and 'walk by' of the Schloss Moritzburg. Back at Radebeul-Ost we find the Karl May Museum (author of German wild west fantasies), at end of steam train ride. Tram back to town.<br>
Supper outdoors at Foersters Restaurant & Bar, Weisse Gasse 5, 01067 Dresden, 32.30 euro for two.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-49125394557073347022015-07-10T10:31:00.003-04:002015-07-10T10:41:35.083-04:00Trains running on empty<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixK9w_qMVUyDT6QWf9G3CxvEMZBhVd_kIQUvxwVhdYhCZuSKzfhNDM0lpzaLW6ydBgcXTE9QFaoukwA1yNCed-xwXFWClB_y417HlJTYPxdDQ7aGDCuhlYyVmr0t-H_NGkh356/s1600/CIMG5342.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixK9w_qMVUyDT6QWf9G3CxvEMZBhVd_kIQUvxwVhdYhCZuSKzfhNDM0lpzaLW6ydBgcXTE9QFaoukwA1yNCed-xwXFWClB_y417HlJTYPxdDQ7aGDCuhlYyVmr0t-H_NGkh356/s320/CIMG5342.jpg" /></a><br>
<small>Pic by Ron Stockey.</small><br>
We went to check out the Union Pearson Express, the new train linking downtown Toronto with the airport. <i>PunchBuggy</i> is all in favour of public transit, but something has gone badly wrong here. We saw three trains viewed from the Toronto Railpath. I did not see a single passenger on any of these trains. I can only conclude that the pricing policy of $27.50 for a single trip, which takes 25 minutes, is an offer the passengers have refused. Look out for some pricing action before too long.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-74111204313206334352015-07-01T06:23:00.000-04:002016-01-18T06:39:18.848-05:00Friends in low places<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHInwbb98sfc5M1cT6UbFKV-_fKSTl299DaFBio_RqqqM52eOqLi7Aars7nvhK0FrtOaXtXi7QQZBC7-ZQ-OO4oKz7txwXFeEmUOdriF51mLBnwFm7dohrUnm2KyY7Fj-DfJO/s1600/DSCN2885.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvHInwbb98sfc5M1cT6UbFKV-_fKSTl299DaFBio_RqqqM52eOqLi7Aars7nvhK0FrtOaXtXi7QQZBC7-ZQ-OO4oKz7txwXFeEmUOdriF51mLBnwFm7dohrUnm2KyY7Fj-DfJO/s320/DSCN2885.JPG" /></a><br>
We left Lewes on Sunday evening by very overcrowded 2-car train for overnight stop in a convenient B & B at Ashford, the Cornerhouse, and a cheap lukewarm 'Italian' meal in Wetherspoons.
Then early departure next day on Eurostar for Lille (avoiding Calais). Breakfasted on croissant and coffee at the Terminal where check-in was quick and friendly. There were overunning
engineering works, but we had no connection to make at Lille.
Mid-morning departure from Lille on bicycles (two Bromptons, one Loopwheels) for Amsterdam via Zandvoort, out on the coast.
Richard on Brompton P type, 6 speed Sram; Jack on customised H type with P bars, 6 speed Brompton/Sturmey - which has to be the tallest Brompton in the world!
The Loopwheels bike has no spokes, features belt drive, disc brakes and 11-speed Alfine hub gears.<br>
<b>Stage 1: 8th June. Lille-Ronse, 38 miles.</b><br>
I lost the boys in the suburbs of Lille on the road to Hem, before we left France. With no map, compass or tools I started to busk my way east following the <i>Canal de L'Espierres</i> for some distance, crossing
the Schelde near Warcoing, to reach Hérinnes. Somewhere along the way I learned that Ronse is Renaix in French, helpful when navigating by road signs and bus timetables. Lunch consisted of
an energy bar. Not far short of the target near Mont-de-L'Enclus I punctured the front tyre on a drawing pin. With no prospect of mending it I walked on, reaching Garage Dewolf. They took
pity on me and put the bike in the back of an estate car, then they drove me to Hostellerie Lou Pahou, Zuidstraat 25, 9600 Ronse. It is just amazing how fair people can be. I reached the
hotel before my companions who had at one stage got hopelessly lost trying to get out of Hem, despite all modern navigational aids. They had though scored sandwiches and tarts. The main
party crossed into Belgium at Nechin. We garaged the bikes, planning to fix the flat in the morning.<br>
To Italian restaurant <i>Il Pinel'lo</i>, Grote Markt 9, 9600 Ronse. 136.80 EUR for three, reasonable value. The fair was in town.<br>
<b>Stage 2: 9th June. Ronse-Brussels, 49 miles.</b><br>
Front puncture soon fixed at Jacky-Sport, zonnestraat 163, 9600 Ronse. Quick release on front wheel made removal a cinch.<br>
Depart 10:00 on long climb out of Ronse at start of up and down day. Aldi shopping. Tea stops at two rural bars, Boekkouter and Hemelveerdegum. Picked up a cycle path along the River
Dender, all the way into Ninove, where we lunched outside a superette on Beverstraat. Separated out towards Gooik. Glad to eventually see the tower blocks of Brussels in the distance.
Took the <i>Groene Weg</i> to Anderlecht, busked to the Grand Place in Brussels. Phoned the boys from the Ibis Hotel, Grasmarkt 100, Rue du Marché aux Herbes 100, 1000 Brussels, while enjoying large (cheap: 5.00 euros per demilitre) Stella beers in the sunshine, requesting rescue. Main party had stopped for coffee in St-Kwintens-Lennik, and also entered the capital by way of Anderlecht.
Modern self-catering apartment at Residence Opera, rue de l'eveque. On corner of square near Theatre Royal. The boys took some while to locate the remote check-in bureau but spacious, comfortable, and good value.
Supper at nearby Mexican Restaurant: <i>Chi-Chi's Tex-Mex</i>, Anspachlaan 5, 1000 Brussels.<br>
<b>10th June</b> at leisure in Brussels. Morning visit to Atomium on tram, return via underground. Lunch at the apartment. Obligatory viewing of the Mannekin Pis. Pleasant evening in the bar of
the Ibis, followed by chips and waffles in the street, and nightcaps at the bar L’Ecuyer, near our apartment, where we earlier had breakfast. Local beer could be had for as little as 3.20
euros per demilitre.<br>
<b>Stage 3: 11th June. Brussels-Wouwse Plantage, 61 miles.</b><br>
06:45 depart Brussels northbound via Grimbergen. Cool. Follow Zeekanal Brussel-Schelde. Tea stop at Willebroek, by lift bridge. Picnic lunch stop on fringes of Antwerp by tram terminus, then ploughing through the interminable docks in hot weather. Eventually reach pleasant countryside, via Stabroek, taking us to Putte in Holland. Immediate improvement in cycle lanes and signage. Stop for double Orangina at <i>Restaurant Jagersrust</i>, Putseweg 21, 4641 RS Ossendrecht. Last lap into Wouwse Plantage, running on empty. B&B Ouwerveldezicht, Schouwenbaan 10, 4725 ST Wouwse Plantage (3 rooms, 58 euros pp), beer, swimming pool on arrival. Nightcap, stout breakfast for cyclists. Good value. Ride to <i>Restaurant-Taverne Kwizien</i>, 2 km, outstanding dinner outdoors 136.80 EUR plus tip for 3.<br>
<b>Stage 4: 12th June. Wouwse Plantage-Nieuwerkerk, 54 miles.</b><br>
Headwinds through the polders into Rotterdam, via Steenbergen. Lift bridges, intriguing derelict buildings. Picnic lunch on island, Hellegatsplein at river crossing. Even the motorway
bridges here provide for cyclist transit. After a nasty mile-long run against the headwind, very friendly air-conditioned pitstop for ice creams at gas station, where attendant spoke
perfect English and was a keen cyclist. Offer from other friendly locals to investigate squeaky, rough-running rear wheel, but no time. Passed through Heinenoordtunnel, a separate bore for
cyclists and a cold plunge. Got separated on final approach, baffled but rode down the dyke to Niewerkerk.<br>
Hotel Nieuwerkerk, Parallelweg Zuid 185, 2914 LE Nieuwerkerk a/d IJssel (trouble finding hotel as it is not called the Van Der Valk, a chain name). Superior digs. Jug of fizzy water and
apple juice to rehydrate. Nice supper on the terrace. Attitudes of numerous young hotel staff vary from cool rudeness to helpful 'customer-focus'. Loopwheels bike stashed in storeroom. Crashed out.<br>
<b>Stage 5: 13th. Nieuwerkerk-Zandvoort, 44 miles.</b><br>
Via excellent cycle paths through Zoeterwoude to Leiden, which has much of the charm of Amsterdam but without the crowds. Passing towns with familiar names from previous visits. Apart from
about 20 minutes of heavy rain, very helpful weather with strong tailwind to Hotel Zeespiegel, Hogeweg 70, 2042 GJ Zandvoort. Italian Restaurant MMX, Haltestraat 13, 2042 LJ Zandvoort. Acceptable. Watched Le Mans 24 Hours on bar TV.<br>
<b>14th June.</b> At leisure in Zandvoort, 14 local miles. To Circuit Park Zandvoort for cycling exhibition. We test ride a number of electric bikes, plus lap of short circuit. Loopwheels bike attracts much attention. Picnic in town. Later Porsche winning Le Mans on TV in a bar. Chris Froome wins Critérium du Dauphiné. Greek Restaurant where, just as in Greece, all meals taste like school dinners.<br>
<b>Stage 6: 15th June. Zandvoort-Amsterdam, 25 miles.</b><br>
Early start through the dunes to pavement breakfast at <i>De Complete Bakker Portvlies</i>, 279 Bloemendaalseweg, Overveen. Remorse that tour is ending. On into Amsterdam, tea at pavement cafe in western reaches of the city, enjoying the bicycle culture, short tour to Rijksmuseum. Train home via Brussels: first class all the way to Ashford, with plenty of freebie food and alcohol on offer. I travelled, like Jack, as a senior so got it all cheap!<br>
<br>
<b>Total:</b> 285 miles approx.<br>
<br>
<b>Plus Points:</b> Minimal luggage. New bike better than Brompton on the rough stuff, including pavé. GPS navigation; weather mostly good; tailwinds, health benefits (the gift that keeps on
giving). Yet again the Bromptons totally reliable though, and much easier to fold. Cycling infrastructure, with much running separated from vehicles.<br>
Thanks to Harvey at Cycleshack2, Lewes, for fettling Loopwheels bike.<br>
<br>
<b>Downsides:</b> Headwinds, punctured Continental tyre, teething troubles with new bike, getting separated (mostly unlike previous tours), no mobile phone. Foldabilty of new bike not a patch on
Brompton.<br>
<br>
<b>Learning points:</b> The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre an option for Loopwheels bike. Get mobile.<br>
<br>
<b>Overall:</b> Good tour in low countries, a classic.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-41773006853344375142014-12-08T15:09:00.001-05:002014-12-08T16:15:34.601-05:00Tool News<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh69DOwiiWIse3R6TmbPhB310INujBxrHl7nTGCzNlVBSV30Y-R4GQCJsavxc4662Pp0SkPgVGOxcaZfius4DaovsyTM0svU2pKyCWVjIyfo5dmjnNI0UopKYD9Rs3SxmChOq4b/s1600/DSCF8812.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh69DOwiiWIse3R6TmbPhB310INujBxrHl7nTGCzNlVBSV30Y-R4GQCJsavxc4662Pp0SkPgVGOxcaZfius4DaovsyTM0svU2pKyCWVjIyfo5dmjnNI0UopKYD9Rs3SxmChOq4b/s320/DSCF8812.JPG" /></a><br>We like to keep it local here at <i>PunchBuggy</i>. So here is our new can opener, similar to the old one on the left. The old Swing-A-Way, made in the USA, is being supplemented by the new EZ-DUZ-IT on the right. The story here is that Swing-A-Way outsourced production to the PRC, while selling the tooling to the John J Steuby Company of Hazelwood, Missouri. So we have a new heartland, midwest-made can opener, built to last. $14.63 including tax at Williams-Sonoma.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkMgEn49aGfGgxYtPAxMEpqHnL4zKbsMVvKz-UtuU1UnrpzM1oH2LGykvtO3uDEA8XhIfJQbsZJvB4j0G4vKeEDAhU-VweSefgxi_8HtYVHDT8HnPMhPv2EDzQOuRg8aTeIMMt/s1600/DSCF8807.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkMgEn49aGfGgxYtPAxMEpqHnL4zKbsMVvKz-UtuU1UnrpzM1oH2LGykvtO3uDEA8XhIfJQbsZJvB4j0G4vKeEDAhU-VweSefgxi_8HtYVHDT8HnPMhPv2EDzQOuRg8aTeIMMt/s320/DSCF8807.JPG" /></a><br>
While getting gas on Saturday we spotted a sign for a local estate sale. I couldn't get there quick enough. The selection of thirteen tools above was picked for $5. All but one Canada or U.S. made, the exception being the small Oxwall bicycle wrench from Japan. The pick of the crop is the Ford branded antique open-ended wrench, inscribed Ford Made In Canada. Also included a Scrulox Robertson screwdriver and my first Mac Tools screwdriver, from Ohio, somewhat abused by the previous owner but good for the 'user' pile.<br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-16448212324481416352014-11-14T07:57:00.000-05:002014-11-17T11:25:37.334-05:00Autumn in Angoulême<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2q1fsabY5Z8wDZSv9igfgeGltovy4vk73up6IhZvEXgC20WCSha4DDdqhBwNvvGPgSQivGXWzdnlmrODWE7-a3fal7IEznPIUV0pOKr8h5Nmz1-t0ka8irg-NVQAEhvnhlbkG/s1600/DSCN2610.JPG" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2q1fsabY5Z8wDZSv9igfgeGltovy4vk73up6IhZvEXgC20WCSha4DDdqhBwNvvGPgSQivGXWzdnlmrODWE7-a3fal7IEznPIUV0pOKr8h5Nmz1-t0ka8irg-NVQAEhvnhlbkG/s320/DSCN2610.JPG" /></a><br>
<small><i>Pic by RLT.</i></small><br>
The cycling season is coming to an end here in Toronto. This summer I have covered some 550 miles on three tours. Here is the report of a trip to Angoulême, France in September.<br>
<br>
<b>Tues 16 Sept:</b><br>
An early start. We caught the 05.23 train from Lewes to Ashford, changing at Eastbourne. The connecting service was running late, so we scramble at Ashford for the 07.28 Eurostar to Lille Europe, arriving at 09.30. The early departure is dictated by the limited Eurostar service from Ashford.<br>
We ride the short distance to Lille Flandres station, coffee out front at <i>Restaurant Le Napoléon</i> in the <i>Place de la Gare</i>, immediately panhandled. There are too many beggars hanging round the station. France is doing everything it can to make life unpleasant for tourists.<br>
11.06 Lille Flandres (1st class) to Nantes arrive 15.59. Cycle about 15 miles south, out through the suburbs of Nantes in rush hour traffic, using iPad navigation, a bit stop-start but better than getting lost. Overnight at Château-Thébaud at the <a href="http://www.domaine-penissiere-millaud.fr/ElementsRubrique.aspx?SITE=EBOUSSE&RUB=68&MP_SS_RUB=ELEM&MP_ELT=DETAI&PAGE=1&Lang=FR">winery</a>. The owner had mixed up her days and wasn't expecting us, but all was quickly sorted out. Good digs.<br>
We ride our bikes to beer and buffet supper at <i>Au P'tit Sarment</i>, "Le Bulay" R.N. 137, 44690 Château-Thébaud. Exceptional value for hungry cyclists.
Three courses for three people, Euro 40 including drinks. Back at the <i>Cave</i>, on the farm, we are gargling two more bottles of wine, Muscadet and Rose from the fridge.<br>
<br>
<b>Weds 17th</b><br>
Cycle 54 miles. We set off at 09:00. Snacks at St Martin des Noyer, drinks at Bournezeau.<br>
This is the deep end. I am not sleeping (jetlag) or feeding well, it is blazing hot (86 Fahrenheit), and the <i>camions</i> are getting closer as we tackle a long switchback sector on a main road. I arrive exhausted. My companions think I'm faking it. Despite all difficulties I am on my best cycling form.<br>
Overnight at Sainte Hermine, Vendée, in an old <a href="http://www.lesecolesbuissonnieres.fr/maison-sainte-hermine.html">chambres d'hôtes</a> with a Citroën 2CV parked in the yard. We have a five room suite at Euro 125 for three.<br>
After lying prostrate we walk out in the town which appears to be closed. We retrace our steps to the main road. Luckily we blunder into <i>Le Minage</i>, 17 Route de la Rochelle, 85210 Sainte-Hermine. They are not yet open so we
take a beer in a nearby bar, <i>Au Père La Victoire</i>, in the <i>Place Clemenceau</i>. The supper is quite upmarket, considering the setting, and a proper treat commencing with <i>Kir Royal</i> and seafood starter.<br>
<br>
<b>Thurs 18th</b><br>
Cycle 58 miles. After breakfast in our suite, which is brought on a tray, we set off through the Vendée. We are following the <i>Michelin</i> cycle route, which in places is more suitable for mountain bikes. I am happier back on the blacktop. The first two hours is crucial, as a good launch phase sets you up for the remaining ride. This is windy country with windmills everywhere. Arrive at Mouzeuil-Saint-Martin, Pays de la Loire, on the D104, where we stop at the boulangerie, opposite the Mairie. Exit D68 for Le Langon.<br>
On to the linear village of Vix, which seems to go on forever. Gathering supplies at a pâtisserie we lunch at the bus stop. Then across the ancient canal and on to the <i>Sèvre Niortaise</i> river, which we follow for a while before getting disoriented. We drift south-west to Courçon, where we have a pitstop by the church, then a supermarket stop at <i>Intermarché</i>, Rue de la Distillerie, Mauzé-sur-le-Mignon. Try finding a cold drink in a French supermarket!<br>
Overnight at Vergne in a <a href="http://www.hotellx.fr/">cheap motel</a>, where we have an inclusive stopover deal with a meal at the <i>Relais Tout Y Faut</i>, out front with the truckers. Overall good. Not sure about the S&M club in back.<br>
A great day in the saddle.<br>
<br>
<b>Fri 19th</b><br>
Cycle 50 miles. News that Scotland voted No.<br>
We make a flying start, teamworking our way south-east on the D115. We divert for a pitstop for Orangina and Perrier at Aulnay, outdoors in the town square, at the <i>Bar Tabac Le Concorde</i>. The weather turns wet at lunchtime as we snack in a bus shelter at Verdille, then exit D66. To Vouharte on the D737, where we meet the dreaded <i>route barrée</i> sign. Always a dilemna for cyclists. Do we divert or press on? We press on passing some road works with ease. We are continuing by the Charente. We want to stop for a drink, but nowhere presents itself. Eventually we stop at our old favourite <i>Bar Le Donjon</i>, Montignac.<br>
On the last travelling day collaboration vanishes as I get tailed off heading uphill on the D737. A sign for Champniers leads to a navigational snafu, resulting in a long downhill on the D37 to the village of Argence, followed by an inevitable climb, all avoidable. (The hotel is not really in Champniers, which may not matter to motorists but is important to this cyclist.) I reach the Hotel Kyriad on a frontage road totally baffled thinking I'd finished. Ride on to <i>Bouticycle</i> shop and all becomes clear.<br>
Arrive at <i>Hotel F1 Angoulême Nord</i> for 3 night stay. Meet up with Pete Webber who joins us for the weekend on his circa-2000 green Brompton bicycle. Beers in the bar at the adjacent Ibis Hotel. Supper at <i>Restaurant La Boucherie</i>, Les Grandes Chaumes, 16430 Champniers.<br>
<br>
<b>Sat 20th</b><br>
Cycle 23 miles. Easy ride (without luggage) to Bric-à-Brac at Vindelle, on the Charente, where Richard snags a cheap road sign. Drinks at recently-opened <i>Le P'tit Varsois</i>, Vars, then D115 to Montignac for beer at the <i>Bar le Donjon</i> once more. We return via Rouhenac. The party splits at Courcon, after the first hill on the tour nobody could cycle up. I am secretly pleased. I lead the charge back to the hotel for a snooze, while the rest take further light refreshment at the <a href="https://www.google.ca/maps/@45.6773468,0.1760255,3a,27.5y,161.48h,89.01t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1susVtAUypMwwZTtMfGtLSfw!2e0"><i>Cafe de Pontouvre</i></a> by the roundabout. Supper at <i>Ristorante Pizzeria Anfiteatro</i>, Zone des Avenauds, Gond Pontouvre.<br>
<br>
<b>Sun 21st</b><br>
A day at the classic car races in Angoulême. We take a taxi into town, encountering a large display of Alpine cars, in the <i>Place des Halles</i>. Paddock tour. Lunch near the Champ de Mars: <i>Latitude Pub</i>, 10 Rue Raymond Poincaré, Angoulême. Indifferent service. The acid test is would you go back? Probably not. We finish at familiar watering hole: <i>Café Bulle</i>, 36 Rue de la Cloche Verte, 16000, Angoulême.<br>
<br>
<b>Mon 22nd</b><br>
Ride into town, then idling at the outdoor station café.
12.27 Angoulême to Lille Europe (1st classs) arrive 16.38.
17.36 Lille Europe to Ashford arrive 17.37. Change for Lewes.<br>
<br>
<b>Total:</b> 205 miles approx.<br>
<br>
<b>Plus Points:</b> GPS navigation; weather (sometimes too much of a good thing); new gilet suitable, especially in the dark; health benefits (the gift that keeps on giving); no punctures; avoided Paris.<br>
<br>
<b>Downsides:</b> Too many professional beggars trading on public stupidity.<br>
<br>
<b>Learning points:</b> The Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyre is definitely suitable for a Brompton, and desirable on long trips. Cut down on luggage even further.<br>
<br>
<b>Overall:</b> Good tour in interesting part of France.<br>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-175071497090995172014-11-04T07:35:00.005-05:002014-11-04T08:04:10.209-05:00The treno tour - Part 3 <b>Part Three: Italy</b>
<br>
The contrast with Switzerland is jaw-dropping. We ride the scruffy local train to Monza (say it <i>Mont-za</i>) amid dereliction and decay. We flee the railway station where undesirables lurk. The first night in Italy, 31st July, we check-in at <i>Locanda San Paolo</i>, Piazza San Paolo 3, Monza, 20900, Italy, +39039325994.<br>
Birthday supper outdoors in considerably warmer weather: <i>Trattoria Caprese</i>, Piazza Roma, 10. Chain restaurant. Overordered at Euro 48.80 for two.<br>
Next morning transfer to: The Penthouse, Via Italia, 44 Monza, 20900, Italy, Tel: 393939119439. Good digs with self catering. Drop off luggage for two nights. Take the bus to Missaglia, meeting friend Rosita at the bus stop. After brief tour, by car to Montevecchia, climbing the 174 steps to the Shrine of our Lady of Mount Carmel, splendid walk and views, then delightful lunch and kind hospitality at <i>Albergo Ristorante Maggioni</i>. The bus goes via Arcore where Silvio Berlusconi has a house. However he was not using his bus pass when we visited and there was no sign of a <i>bunga bunga</i> party.<br>
<i>Luna Cafe</i>, Via Italia, for breakfast, 3 x brioche, 2 x capucci, Euro 7.30, deal. To the station to buy our train tickets for Padua. Then walk to the bike rental location in the massive Royal Park, to tour the <i>autodromo monza</i>. Two bikes, two hours, Euro 12. The park is much run down in places, largely deserted early morning. We pick up beer cans and bin them. Fantastic views of the old banked motor racing circuit, which they are in the process of restoring. They raced on this track in Indy front-engined roadsters in the fifties - outrageous. Cycled round the paddock where there is a cheerful lack of security. At the bike hire place they recommend lunch outdoors at <i>Cascina del Sole</i>, in the park. Good service and value at Euro 30 for two, including tip.<br>
Next day take local train to the magnificent <i>Milan Centrale</i> station, where we change for Padua, boarding the <i>Trenitalia Frecciabianca</i>. The train is five munutes late in arriving and we take a taxi to the hotel: <i>Hotel Albergo Verdi</i>, Via Dondi Dall'Orologio, 7 Padova, 35139 for four nights. Soon we are in "Piazzaworld" lunching in the Piazza Dei Signori, where a storm is brewing and the staff are hurrying to clear the outdoor tables.<br>
This splendid country does grow on you despite beggars, hookers, con artists, etc. We have dodged any depradations so far. All transactions here are strictly cash - "My machine is not working - I do not know why." Gets a bit like a stuck record for the umpteenth time. The real economy here is probably twice the size of government figures. When you have a dysfunctional government you get on with life by other means. The Euro has done nothing but add to Italy's troubles, much industry being shuttered and emigration the chosen option for many.<br>
Hereabouts is the land of the no-gears bicycle - shoppers and roadsters - all ages aboard and in all states of repair. Many derailleurs but hub gears virtually unknown. I did see a few remnants of Sachs and Sturmey Archer days, and the red local hire-scheme bikes had Shimano three speeds. Everybody on parade in the evenings - lights an unlikely optional extra. Electric bikes spotted including with Bosch drivetrain.<br>
Visit to Botanical Gardens, founded 1545, part of the <i>Università degli Studi di Padova</i>. Wonderful oasis away from the crowds, contemplating scientific endeavour over such a sustained period. Spotted Physalis plant, which may explain the name of the charmless bar in Spay, France.<br>
Early start for half-day trip to Venice, travelling by 07:21 train, a journey of about twenty miles. Walked to the Rialto Bridge, St Marks Square, Bridge of Sighs etc. We are amused by the sight of a <i>gondolier</i> glued to his mobile phone. By mid-morning everywhere is bedlam with waves of tourists in <i>grupo</i> tours. So many people overwhelming the place when they could visit Montevecchia in peace. By midday we can take no more and head for the station, taking the 12:05 to Padua.<br>
Lunch at <i>Cafè Il Padovano</i>, Via Martiri della Libertà, 17, 35137 Padua. Sampled local <i>Lugana</i> wine. Supper at <i>Osteria dei Fabbri</i>, Via dei fabbri, Padua. Notable for black pasta. Annette says:<br>
<br>
The <i>orecchiette servite con code di gamberi e broccoli</i> (ear-shaped pasta with shrimp and broccoli) and <i>tagliolini neri serviti con vongole veraci e funghi porcini</i> (black noodles with clams and mushrooms) are heavenly! Add excellent ambiance and service and you've got a meal to remember.<br>
<br>
Our last full day is spent promenading and shopping. Pizza in the Piazza dei Signori followed by gelato. Also frequented <i>Bar Caffe' Missaglia</i>, Via Santa Lucia, 47 Padova.<br>
Next day Busitalia from Padova to Venice Marco Polo Airport, Euro 8.50 x 2. Air Transat home.<br>
Pleasing to see cultural exports on TV: <i>Top Gear</i> in German, <i>Wheeler Dealers</i> in Italian.<br>
<br>
Purchases:<br>
Coffee spoons x 12. Euro 2.50. The cheap variety that make french cafes irresistible. <i>La Vaisselerie</i>, 80 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris, Tel: 0145 22 32 47.
Bodum bistro spoons (6 x 14cm Sfr 3.90; 6 x 20cm Sfr 4.90) Bodum 70th Anniversary book, gratis. Bodum Store Luzern, Weinmarkt 7, 6000 Luzern 5, Tel: 041 412 38 38.
Bargain bin cycling vest in outlet store, 63 Sfr. Discounted 60%. Outlet Sport by Balmelli, Via Maderno 16, Lugano, Tel: 091 922 67 77.
Bodum bistro coffee mug (Sfr 2.40, reduced from Sfr 4.90). Coop St Moritz Bellevue, Via dal Bagn 20, 7500 St. Moritz, Tel: 41 81 837 56 60.
Duralex Lys <i>Coupelle</i> or <i>Coppetta</i> x 2, Total Euro 1.80. <i>laRinascente</i>, piazza giuseppe garibaldi, 35122, Padua, Tel: 39 049 8760166.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-3516260999529720762014-10-13T10:05:00.005-04:002014-10-13T10:12:40.378-04:00The treno tour - Part 2<b>Part Two: Switzerland</b><br>
The Swiss leg of the trip starts in Basel. We catch the #30 free bus from the train station to the Steinenschanze Stadthotel, Steinengraben 69, 4051 Basel, Tel: +41 61 272 53 53.<br>
We take a walk round town taking in the bookshops and stationery shops, then a tram ride. I spotted a lovely Puch roadster bicycle <i>mit Fichtel und Sachs dreigang</i>. There are many Sturmey Archer survivors <i>en Suisse</i>, which has a strong cycling culture. I read that there are 250,000 e-bikes in Switzerland.
Back at the hotel it is time for happy hour, help yourself to a couple of generous glasses of wine with snacks on the house. Recommended.<br>
We take breakfast next morning at the train station, apricot croissants, and coffee, then ride the train to Luzern, via Olten, arriving for early check-in at Waldstaetterhof Hotel, Zentralstrasse 4 6003 Luzern, Tel: +41 (0)41 227 12 71. Comfortable and conveniently close to the station.<br>
After multiple Duralex sightings in France, I found a Bodum shop in Luzern. Bodum are celebrating 70 years and I scored a free commemorative catalogue. Roesti lunch at Restaurant Fritschi, Sternenplatz 5, Lucerne 6004, Tel: +41 41 410 16 15. Afternoon stroll uphill to the Museggmauer (old town wall) which does not seem to be on the tourist beat. Supper at Dean & David Luzern, Morgartenstrasse 4, Lucerne 6003. Close to our hotel. Yogurt afters from Migros.<br>
Next day we catch the steamboat "Stadt Luzern" to Fluelen, a three-hour boat cruise on Lake Lucerne, lunching in the first-class cabin. We change onto the Wilhelm Tell Express Train. Winding though the Reuss Valley, climbing through the St. Gotthard range and through the Gotthard railway tunnel to Bellinzona, where we change trains for Lugano.<br>
We check in to the Continental Parkhotel Lugano, Via Basel, 28 - CH-6900 Lugano, which is near the station. Next day we need to do some washing, so we roam around in the rain to find Lavanderia Il Girasole, via Giuseppe Bagutti 8, Tel: 076 503 79 64. I bought a bargain bin cycling jacket or gilet, reduced from 139 Sfr to 63 Sfr, in an outlet store. Avoided remaindered Lance Armstrong gear. Outlet Sport by Balmelli, Via Maderno 16, Lugano, Tel: 091 922 67 77. Lunch outdoors at the Birreria al Forte, via al Forte, where we managed to eat a whole meal without being panhandled. There is also no graffiti in this part of town, although the Italian-part of Switzerland is far from free of it. We ride the funicular which connects the town centre with the station above.<br>
Next day we catch the big red bus from Lugano station, past Gandria and into Italy. Empty factories indicate a hurting economy. The bus is the first leg on the Bernina Express, to Tirano in Italy, where we board the train for St Moritz. Lunch in Tirano is spoiled by a grumpy waiter who objected to us trying to order coffee!
The Bernina train is the highest adhesion railway (no rack and pinion) in Europe, with a maximum gradient of 7%. We see some adventurous types out on mountain bikes as we came along in the train. We arrive in St Moritz and take a taxi to Hotel Soldanella, Via Somplaz 17, CH-7500 St. Moritz. Supper at an outdoor pub, where a tuneless geezer was singing to backing tapes, improvising the words to covers, he would have been at home in Morecambe.<br>
On our free day in St Moritz we stroll in the town, then by the lake to Bad St Moritz where I purchase a Bodum Bistro coffee mug, 4.90 Sfr reduced to 2.40 Sfr at the Co-op. Lunch back in town outdoors at Le Lapin Bleu at the Steffani Hotel, spendy but a real treat at Sfr 75 for two. We retreat under an awning as it starts to rain.
Next day we board the Glacier Express to Zermatt via Chur, Andermatt and Brig. A snafu with our tickets means we leave an hour late at 09:02, after one more coffee in the station buffet at St Moritz. This is the train that derailed spectacularly a few weeks later. A stop in Chur enables us to photograph the train. Chur is allegedly home to the first cathedral north of the Alps. We follow the Rhine River into the mountains and pass by Disentis, home to religious dissenters. Thanks to Luther Protestantism took hold early in these parts.<br>
After a huge roast lunch on the train we arrive at car-free Zermatt. We walk to Garni Sarazena Hotel, Bahnhofplatz 14, 3920 Zermatt.<br>
Next morning a herd of goats comes down the high street, cowbells clanking, and we follow them out onto the pasture, where paragliders are landing. We then walk on to the English church, where many who perished climbing the mountains hereabouts are buried. Edward Whymper, the Englishman first to climb the Matterhorn, said:<br>
<br>
<i>“Climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are naught without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste, look well to each step, and from the beginning think what may be the end.”</i><br>
<br>
After a visit to the Matterhorn Museum we take lunch outdoors in chilly weather at Walliserkanne, Bahnhofstrasse 1, 3920 Zermatt, Tel:+41 27 966 46 10. Chef's menu, 3 courses, 22 Sfr.<br>
On departure next morning we retrace our steps to Brig, changing trains for Andermatt, then again for the steep descent to Göschenen, where we rush across the platform for the southbound train. We change at Chiasso, where our Swiss rail pass runs out.<br>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1422295.post-18221563291976023412014-09-10T10:34:00.000-04:002014-11-05T16:04:01.244-05:00The treno tour - Part 1For our summer tour this year we decided on a train trip in France, Switzerland and Italy. Starting in Paris, finishing in Venice.<br>
<b>Part One: France</b><br>
We arrive on Air Transat at Paris CDG early morning for five nights in France. A Concorde aircraft is on display. This dated airport relies on a coach transfer to the terminal.<br>
We were quickly on our way on the RER train to Chatelet-Les Halles, in the centre of the city, for transfer to St Germain en Laye to the west. As advised we waited for our destination to appear on the indicator panel on the platform. It never did, so we finally boarded a train to Le Vésinet-Le Pecq, one stop down the line, where a shuttle bus was waiting. A veritable herd of railway employees were supervising at the bus stop.<br>
After a quick breakfast of coffee and croissants in St Germain and consulting with the tourist office, we caught the #4 bus to Chambourcy. A short walk from the bus stop to the Campanile Hotel, Routes de Mantes, RN13, 6 Allee de Pomone, 78100 St Germain en Laye, Tel: +33 1 34 51 59 59, for early check-in, cheap and cheerful. After shopping at Lidl we are watching the Tour de France on TV, and crashing out. Reading an obit for Johnny Winter in the bar in the evening.<br>
First morning in Chambourcy we walk into the old village and on to the modern shopping centre. I finally hit Duralex paydirt - the hotel in Chambourcy has the glasses in the bar, and they are for sale in Carrefour, first time I have seen them for sale in France.<br>
After lunch we walk on to the Desert de Retz, a folly garden outside Chambourcy, for a guided tour lasting about 1½ hours. As we start to walk back we are offered a lift to the hotel, by an English-speaking couple.
Supper at Maotai, 78 route de Mantes, 78240 Chambourcy, Tel: 33 (0) 1 30 06 09 75. Trip Advisor: “Desperately needs a restaurant make over. Food is very tasty and well priced but dining room, printed menus and service are in need of critical up-grades." 3 of 5 stars. Reviewed 23 July 2014.<br>
Next day fellow-researcher Emmanuel Tilloy picks us up for a splendid lunch at Chesnay and a tour of the gardens at Versailles. We are discussing the history of the coalfields in the Crowsnest Pass. On this holiday I am reprising many places visited when a youngster, for example staying in the Paris hotel where I stayed in 1960, Lugano, Venice etc.<br>
So next morning we take the bus to St Germain and RER train to Auber, for early check-in at the Hôtel Saint Petersbourg, 33-35 rue Caumartin 75009 PARIS, Tel: + 33 1 42 66 60 38. Comfortable but the wifi isn't working at this three-star hotel. We haven't been on the street ten minutes, near the Opera, before a woman, who looks like a witch, tries to work the 'gold ring' trick on us.<br>
Next day we walk to the Parc Monceau, a folly garden, notable for being the site of the first parachute jump. Bought a dozen cheap coffee spoons, in a hardware store, as found in French cafes, after years of searching.<br>
On departure we are waiting for the crowded RER train to leave for Gare de Lyon but it fails to leave the station. We scramble onto the metro, changing at Pyramid. Fare dodgers jumping the barriers are a feature of the Paris transit system. Also avoid young ladies with clipboards, working in pairs, who intend to rob you. Paris is living up to its reputation as a 'scam city.'<br>
With some relief we board the TGV Lyria train 9211, bound for Dijon, Mulhouse, Basel and Zurich. A splendid lunch is served before we reach our destination in Basel.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0