Friday, August 04, 2017

Four Countries Tour - part 1

For our summer tour this year we decided on a trip to Germany, Czechia, Sweden and Denmark. We booked everything ourselves online.
From Toronto Icelandair flight FI 602, departure 21:00, stopover in Keflavik, Iceland; then FI 510 scheduled arrival at Hamburg 13:05 on July 4th. Miserable stopover at Keflavik on way across Atlantic - the airport is a shambles.
Binge-watching "Deutschland '83" on the plane, a German TV-series about DDR activities on both sides of the Wall. It is all good clean fun until somebody gets hurt!
The reality is that the two German states were conducting a low-level civil war in the 1980s. Star player for the Stasi was Carlos The Jackal, who bombed the "Maison de France," a cultural centre in Berlin in 1983.
Our plane arrives at Hamburg 12:45, some twenty minutes early. A Chinook twin-rotor military helicopter swoops right in behind us on the runway. Welcome to the G20 Gipfel (summit).
We take the S-Bahn to Landungsbrücken, 30 mins approx, €3.10 each. Our Einzelkarte is stamped 13:18.
Past the Hbf, one stop short of the Reeperbahn. There is graffiti galore. The posters say: "G20: Welcome to Hell." A banner in our neighbourhood says: "G20: Ein festival der Idiotie". Reportedly there are 50,000 visitors, plenty of protestors and rows of police vans.
We check in to Hanse Clipper Haus, Dittmar-Koel Str. Our apartment has two floors. This is in the "Portuguese quarter" - many Italian, Portuguese, Tapas restaurants, cafes etc. Lunch outdoors at restaurant Ciao Ana, Ditmar-Koel Str 10: Arabiata, penne tonno, Krombacher Pils, €22.70. Some old buildings survive, also many bicycles, Ape x 2. Afternoon crashed out.
Later at nearby Bairro Bar bar-lounge-cafe, Dittmar-Koel Str 24: Becks x 2, €3.90 each, tea €2.90. To Rewe City, Brauerknectgraben 47, for grocery, very convenient, €15.41 plus 63 cents for milk. Photo: VW 1500. Smart cars everywhere.
We catch up with the Cavendish-Sagan saga in the Tour de France on TV.
Museum Day. Police mustering near the Elbephilharmonic. Walk to Schanzen Backerei, Holtzbrucke 7: coffee x 1, €1.60.
Waiting for Miniatur Wunderland to open at 08:30 - model trains, moving vehicles, a working airport, great variety of cars - smart, Ape, Thing, Goliath etc. You can see the Control Centre which operates and monitors the layouts. There is a temporary G20 Hamburg sector with visitor messages: "Impeachment NOW!" - "WENIGER AUTOS" - "STOP SEXISMUS" etc. Depressing how half-baked public sentiment turns out to be.
G20 apart, Annette rated Miniatur Wunderland overall as "mindblowing." €13, €11 seniors.
Walk to stylish Prototyp Museum, Shanghaiallee 7, which we can't find due to wrong directions. Eventually we get there - near the Maritime Museum. Cafe Erlkonig, at Museum: Pfankuchen mitt Nutela, Ham and cheese sandwich, coffee x 2. Snack €9.40. F1 movies from the 1950s are playing in the cafe. One of the major exhibits is a shrine to Taffy von Trips. Rare German racing cars. Entry €10 each.
Walk to Hbf, book seat reservations on train to Berlin. As we leave the station folk are boarding-up the Nike store opposite.
We see the G20 "Zombie" protestors at the Chilehaus - 1000 Gestalten. They are dressed neatly in grey, with grey faces. They shuffle slowly and do not speak. Their discipline is impressive. If only I knew what point they were trying to make?
We walk back to our digs. Dinner at Luigi's Pizza, Dittmar-Koel Str 21. (Recommended by Kaleb Kowalski at TD Bank in TO.) Busy bustling place, good service. Pizza Milana - mushroon, oregano €8.50, Pizza Vegetarisch €8.50, 2 x Flensburger beer €8.40, Large water €3.80. Grappa and Zambuca bottles and 2 shot glasses arrive with bill, help yourself: €29.20 plus €4 tip. Take home half of each pizza.
The day of the self-guided Beatles tour, devised by Annette, after comprehensive research. (None of the organised tours fitted our schedule.) We started early in the morning to avoid both G20 protests and the more tawdry aspects of the Reeperbahn.
Walk to Dat Backhus, Hopfenstrasse 5, "Ein Stuck Hamburg das schmeckt." 2 x Croissant €1.80, 1 Mozarella Baguette, 2 x Coffee €8.40.
Next to our breakfast stop there is a nursery with signs saying: "the children are afraid" - "Politikfrei zone!" We are to see many signs vaguely sympathising with the protestors but asking to be excluded from the mayhem: "No G20, Spare our Store!" This did not work in all cases.
We start the Beatles Tour at St Pauli Police Station, 31 Spielbundenplatz/Davidstrasse, where Paul McCartney and Pete Best allegedly spent the night after some shenanigans. There are a number of police cars parked outside, making for a photo opportunity.
On to Top Ten Club, 136 Reeperbahn; Beatles Platz; Paul Hundertmark Western Store, 9 Spielbundenplatz (where the Beatles bought cowboy boots for early photos, shop now defunct); assorted venues and digs: Kaiserkeller, 36 Grosse Freiheit; Star Club, 39 Grosse Freiheit; Indra, 64 Grosse Freiheit; Bambi Kino, 33 Paul-Roosen Strasse; Lennon Doorway, Jager Passage, 22 Wohlwill Strasse; Hotel Germania, 8 Detlev-Bremer Strasse; return via Top Ten Club, 136 Reeperbahn.

Pic by RLT
During this tour we come across what looks like the HQ of the Black Block anarchists, "Rosa Flora" or some such. You have to wonder why anarchists need an office? (You don't have to be an anarchist to hate the slavery of a desk and telephone.)
Then walk to Lieblings Cafe, Detlev-Bremer-Strasse 50, for coffee on the pavement opposite a Postbank. Coffee x 3, €8.60. We see smart cars, bicycles including Brompton, also an electric BMW drives past. Small children are being shepherded to school on bicycles - it all looks very hazardous in the traffic.
Lunch at O Pescador, Dittmar-Koel Str 17. Complementary salad and bread, Mittagliche Karte: #5 Gegrillet fisch plate, €7.50; #7 Nudeln mit geschreddertier hunchen fleisch, Vino verde 0.25l x 2, wasser still. €26.10.
Russians at the next table are having a G20 blowout: huge steak lunches, drinking (wine, beer, hard liquor) and smoking. It is an ill wind!
Visit to St Michaelis Church, €2 donation.
G20 on TV: Wasserwerfer (water cannon), sirens, helicopters. Estimated €12 million damage for the whole gig, mostly vandalism and fire raising. This is a made-for-TV event: the whole aim being to bring scenes of chaos to your screens. In that the protestors succeeded.
The democratic credentials of many G20 leaders/attendees are also in short supply. The rot is not confined to the protestors. While we were in Hamburg democracy was missing in action. Why did they choose this city, a known centre for agitators?
TV: "Hollen-Demo Escaliert" - the hellish-demo escalates! By now we are looking to get out of town in one piece.
Depart digs at 06:45 and walk to Stadthausbrucke S-Bahn. Two stops to Hbf, where we are denied entry to the empty DB First Class Lounge with our Eurail Pass. (Once again some First Class passengers are more important than others. We have reserved First Class seats, which DB failed to provide. Our train does not arrive. We travel second class on another delayed train and have to queue for half-an-hour in Berlin to reclaim our reservation fee. On this day of all days DB utterly failed to rise to the occasion. Their concept of customer service is out of the dark ages. This is not a one-off - we experienced delays and indifferent service in 2015.)
Breakfast at Kamps Backstube - "Backerei trifft Leckerei!" - on the terrasse at the Station: €11:40. We nearly bump into a squad of armed police in "Star Wars" outfits. We wait for 08:51 Hamburg to Berlin, Wagen 262, Platz 54, 56. Announcement: "Train delayed due to Police Investigations."
Eventually we switch trains - Dep 09:30 ICE (originally the 07:38). Ride in nearly empty 2nd class carriage. (Chatting to Monika, who recommends Hotel Metropole, Brussels.) Stops at Ludwigslust, Wittenberge (DB Werke Wittenberge), Berlin-Spandau (arr 11:03). €3 coffee on train. 76 minutes delayed. Queue for refund first class booking fee €11.30. S-Bahn to hotel, one stop to Bellevue - check in at 12:35: AMERON Hotel Abion Spreebogen, Alt-Moabit 99, Mitte, Berlin 10559.
Lunch at Paulaner Im Spreebogen, Alt-Moabit 98, including Salat Pfifferlinge, €27.40.
To school Grundschule am Barbarossa Platz, via U-bahn. Walk to Hansaplatz, U9 to Berliner Strasse then U7 to Eisenacherstrasse. Jenny, the schoolteacher, says: "Leipzig and Dresden are rivals; Leipzig is left-leaning and proud of its part in the revolution. I suggest a visit to St Nicholas church, the centre of the revolution. Dresden has the better architecture but is more conservative."
Shopping at Rewe City, Bartningallee 3, (Hansaplatz) €9.56 (snacks, wine etc).
At trendy Konditorie G Buchwald, Bartningallee 29, 10557 Berlin, for breakfast outdoors €18.00, sharing the space with sparrows.
Sign: "Hansaviertel Internationale Bananstellung 1957 und Erganzurgen" - 60 year annniversary of Interbau IBA, an international architectural competition to rebuild the Hansaviertel district following destruction in WW2.
We take the S-Bahn to Westkreuz, changing onto the S41, one stop to Messe Nord/ICC, in search of the Avus Motel/racing circuit, which we find fairly quickly near the Messegelände. The motel and a grandstand survive (managed by Avus Tribune Gmbh). We take coffee/tea at the Avus Motel, Halenseestraße 51, in the delightful round tower: €5.80. There are photos of racing cars, including the Opel 2 Rocket Car, on the table tops.

Pic by RLT
Graffiti: "Merkel Muss Weg!" Is this the writing on the wall?
Walk to Messe Sud for S-Bahn to Spandau, S5. To the mall Spandau Arcaden, purchase Clack Keramikei Hase €29.30 (a novelty item for opening boiled eggs), 2 x egg cups €5.90 at Cookmal! €29.80 total.
Walk to Alt Stadt, promenade in old town. Encounter Woolworth store. We decide to lunch at Satt & Selig Steakeria, Carl-Schurtz-Strasse 47, 13597 Berlin. The service is so bad that we get up and leave. Spandau turned out to be rather charmless.
Take train at Rathaus Spandau on U7 to Wilmersdorfstrasse, then S7 to the Tiergarten. We look round the Trödelmarkt (bric-a-brac): I particularly wanted to buy Gedore and Hazet wrenches – German brands coveted in NA, on par with Snap-on. We weren’t planning to check luggage so I passed.
We bought cheese sandwiches at the Tier Garten, €5.60, and walked through the Hanseviertel to a picnic on a park bench.
Photograph Simson Schwalbe scooter (1964-1986, built at Suhl).
Return to hotel, then S-Bahn to Tiergarten, arrive 19:35. To secluded Restaurantkniepe Giraffe, Klopstockstrasse 2, 10557 Berlin (spotted earlier) - baked potato & chicken, veggie tart, Berliner Pilsner Bier, Iced Tea, €25.30, €30 with tip. Great value, recommended. S-Bahn back to hotel.
S75 to Friedrichstrasse, U6 to Kochstrasse, breakfast at Kamps Backstube, 41 Friedrichstrasse, (opposite Starbucks): 2 brie baguettes and 2 enormous coffee, €10.60.
To Mauermuseum Haus Am Checkpoint Charlie, admit two €29.00: "Mauer Muss Weg!" The escapers tried every trick in the book to get out! Recommended - get there early, allow plenty of time.
Film: "Das Wunder von Berlin" ("The Miracle of Berlin") made in 2008 for TV, set in 1989 etc.
Mass tourism: tourists posing at Checkpoint Charlie with pretend US soldiers - "starts in tragedy, ends in farce."
Walk to Hallesches Tor U-Bahn, ride to Kurfurstenstrasse, wrong slot! We lunch at Coffee Deli "Queen of Muffins" Pohlstraße 65: Salad with quinoa, edamame and avocado, Cranberry Chicken Sandwich, Fresh mint and English Breakfast Tea, €15.00.
Then take U-Bahn to Kurfurstendam, walk to Käthe Kollwitz Museum, Fasanenstrasse 24, regular admission €7.00 each. A garden oasis in the big city. (Her house in Berlin was on Wörther Platz, destroyed in an air raid 1943, now Kollwitzplatz.) Nearest U-Bahn to the museum turns out to be Uhland Strasse.
Julius Elias was the first to draw attention to Kollwitz in 1893. The Prussian Akademy of Arts forced Kollwitz to resign in 1933, when she was prohibited from exhibiting by the Nazis.
Walk to S-Bahn at Savignyplatz, back to hotel.
TV series "Der Gleiche Himmell" (The Same Sky) - Berlin Wall Story. "It was all built on lies!" Story lines: DDR spy seductions and murder, sports doping, tunnel and hang-glider would-be escapers.
Dinner at Lanniger Restaurant in hotel, summer menu: Matjes mit Almbluten €13.00, Roasted Poussin €22.00, bottle of mineral water €7.50, plus €5.00 tip, spendy at €47.50.
MONTAG 10 Juli
Depart hotel 07:00, S-Bahn to Hauptbahnhof, arrive 7:15. (Hotel staff report the Abion is due for refurbishment.) Frühstück: Heberer's Traditional Bakery (joined with Spar Store): Joghurt, Pastries, Coffee, €11.30.
08:15 train to Dessau, RE7, Gleis 13. Through forest and heathland to Dessau on the Elbe River. Bicycles on train, among them a ladies pink Sachs-dreigang mixte, Brompton. Stops: Zoologischer Garten, Berlin-Charlottenberg, Wannsee, Potsdam-Medienstadt-Babelsberg, Potsdam-Rehbrucke, Wilhelmshorst, Michendorf, Seddin, Beelitz-Heilstatten, Borkheide, Bruck (Mark), Baitz, Bad Belzig, Weisenburg (Mark), Jeber-Bergfrieden, Roßlau (Elbe), Dessau Hbf.
Walk to Stiftung Bauhaus Dessau, Gropiusallee 38, 06846 Dessau-Roßlau. €7.50 x 2.
Walter Gropius (1883-1969) materials/methods: factory assembly, use of light, glass block walls, garden plots, stress on self-sufficency, influence of Marxism. Masters' houses: Gropius' house destroyed during WW2, replica there today. Junkers works at Dessau sold heating systems, airplanes.
1932 Bauhaus school closed by the Nazis. There was a Kulturkampf. In a totalitarian state only one style of architecture was acceptable. The Nazi architecture was monumental and imposing. But half a decade of the Bauhaus changed the face of the city of Dessau.
The Bauhaus movement was previously in Weimar (Thuringia) for six years, left in 1925. (There is a Bauhaus museum now in Weimar.) Staatliches Bauhaus Dessau 1926-1932. Bauhaus moved to Berlin 1932 and closed down 20 July 1933. Bauhaus personnel scattered - Mies Van der Rohe to Chicago - see PunchBuggy Passim.
We see the iconic Bauhaus B3 tubular chair. Book: "Ornament is Crime!
At Dessau Hbf we bought egg rolls at Steinecke Brotmeisterei, had a picnic on a bench. On the other side of the station we take Tram #3 to Junkers Park and back. Tageskarte €5.00.
14:06 S2 dep Dessau dir Leipzig-Connewitz - finally in first class. Stopped at Dessau-Sud, Marke, Raguhn, Jessnitz (Anh), Wolfen, Greppin, Bitterfeld, Petersroda, Delitsch und BF, Zschortau, Rackwitz, Leipzig-Messe, Leipzig-Nord, Leipzig-Hbf tief.
Couldn't find the hotel, needed a snooze. Check in at the splendid: Steigenberger Grandhotel Handelshof Leipzig, Salzgäßchen 6, Mitte, 04109 Leipzig.
Supper at Rizzi (pizzeria, spaghettieria, cafeteria), Katharinen Strasse 2: Spaghetti Aglio Olio €6.90, Spaghetti Ricotta €7.95, Bier Ur-Krostitzer Fin Herbs Pilsner half litre €3.90, Fresh peppermint tea €2.20. After dinner, walk round town. Beer in bar in "enclosed courtyard" at the hotel. "No name" island bar: Radeberger Pilsner vom Fass €5.50. The bar is a mess - needs to illuminate the bottles to sell more liquor. Red and stainless steel at the back clashes with oldtimer theme. The entrance is not enticing - you cannot see the bar from the foyer. Three beers, €16.50 - Brasserie le Grand.
Walk to Schnell & Sauber, Dresdener Strasse 2: a launderette past the ring road. We are stuck for coins, but Annette heroically rounds up breakfast from Netto - 4 croissant, two coffee €8.20; 2 yogurt & 1 Orange Juice €1.37 (two purchases to maximise change). Laundry also €8.20. We take the #7 tram €1.80 x 2 back to the Hbf.

Pic by RLT
We learn that the BMW electric car is made in Leipzig, (Porsche also have a factory here).
We walk back to the hotel, then to Stasi Museum at the old HQ at "Runden Ecke." All the brutality and banality a staggering effort: cell blocks, filming, photography, mail opened, shredding machines, cassette tapes, miniature cameras etc, etc.
Lunch at Barfusz Cafe-Restaurant-Bar, Markt 9, Leipzig: Grune Erbensuppe €4.90, Tomatensuppe €3.90, Ziegeu Kase cheese sandwich, peppermint tea €2.50. Sketchy service in tourist quarter.
To free coffee museum: Zum Arabischen Coffe Baum, Kleine Fleischergasse 4, 04109 Leipzig. Artifacts: KAFFEE HAG decaffeinated coffee poster, Ludwig Roselius developed decaf in the early 20th century in Bremen; player pianos in Leipzig coffee houses; Dorag coffee machine, Berlin; Melitta Bentz from Dresden invented coffee filter paper in 1908, company now in Minden (since 1929). Recommended.
Charger for camera battery €30.00. To travel centre to purchase Sachsen-ticket for Leipzig-Colditz-Dresden travel day; money from Deutsche Bank, Augustusplatz 14, Leipzig.
Hans Im Glück (chain, Hamburger joint reinvented), Augustusplatz 14, for supper. Reception: good; ordering: good, menus on table; ambiance: funky tree decor, music but not conversation destroying; beer: 0.5l €3.90 x 2; tafelwasser: 0.5l €2.90; beer and food came quickly. Omas Geheimnis Schokoladenkuchen, Vanilleeis & Sahne, €5.00. Total €34.70, €40 incl tip.
Street bands outside Galleria Kaufhof, Neumarkt 1: Brazz Banditen, 9-piece brass band (pink hair, no connection to Fager they said). Great Leipzig vibe: a city at ease with itself: Aha "Take on Me"; Britney Spears "Toxic" etc. Duo on guitar/ukelele "The Renegades", singer being from Manchester, Matthew Kerr.
All the while bicycles are whizzing past. A local yells "Achtung!" as he throws litter in a bin close by.
Leipzig is famous for coffee culture so we visit Kaffeehaus Riquet, Schumachergasschen 1, for breakfast (near the hotel). Wiener Frühstück €5.10, Französiches Frühstück €6.60, with coffee x 2 €17.10, including tip €20. Advertisement: "JJ Darboven seit 1866."
Walking tour of the 1989 sign-posted revolution sites/sights including the ring road, partly Goerdelerring. The revolution gained momentum as more and folk paraded round the ring road on Mondays. They feared retaliation at the Stasi HQ and the Hauptbahnhof.
Lunch at Emil & Moritz - Feine Schnitzelwirtschaft, Brühl 1, Schweineschnitzel Zweibel €6.90, Brottasche Gegrikkter Lachs €9.90, Apfelsaft. €26.90, €30.00 incl tip.
N'Ostalgie museum, Nikolaistrasse, 28-32, €6.50 x 2. GDR artifacts: Simson SR1 made from 1955-1957, the first DDR moped; Simson SR2 1957-1959; Export model SR2E from 1959, available in the DDR in 1960; KR50, Simson Spatz, Star, Mofa 1 (VEB - Simson - Suhl). VEB Minol was the state oil company. Brandenburg moped had a MAW motor. Scooters: IWL, Troll 1. MZ motor cycles (Zschopau).
Tour de France on TV. Trip to McPaper, Grimmaische Strasse 14, Schreiblernstift HB x 2 (pencils) €3.38; Lidl, Peterstraße 36/44, for supplies: €8.69. Bar in hotel.
Check out, walk to the magnificent Hauptbahnhof, #4208 luggage locker €3.00. Breakfast at Erntebrot at Hbf €9.65. Mitteldeutsche RegioBahn 09:06 MRB train RB 110, direction Dobeln, change at Grimma. Using a Sachsen-Ticket €32.00 for two (unlimited travel in Saxony for 24 hours).
Stops: Sellerhausen, Paunsdorf, Leipzig-Engelsdorf, Borsdorf, Beucha, Naunhof, Grossteinburg, Grimma (station in a bad state). Change to Bus 619, bus stop #1 (Mercedes Benz bus, splendid, nearly empty). Saw Trabi wagon at Grossboten, later another Trabi and Simson. At Colditz: Simson posters, spares in shop window.
Colditz Castle entry €4.00 x 2: the view from the castle provides a panoramic view of the town, which must have taunted the inmates. The Allied prisoners suffered here during WW2. Worse befell slave labourers in the surrounding district. We walk to Colditz railway station and freight shed, retracing the steps of the prisoners arriving in the town. The railway line is now defunct.
After picnic lunch in the bus-shelter, we see three storks in a nest and an eagle, spotted from 619 bus on return to Grimma from Colditz. 619 bus morphs into 690 bus at Grimma, goes straight to Leipzig Hbf. We pass The Monument to the Battle of the Nations (Das Völkerschlachtdenkmal) in the bus in Leipzig.
Rapid retrieval of luggage from locker, then RE50 train depart Leipzig Hbf 14:00. Stops: Leipzig- Engelsdorf, Borsdorf, Wurzen, Kuhren, Dahlen, Oschatz, Reisa, Glaubitz, Nunchritz, Priestewitz, Niederau, Weinbohla, Coswig, Radebeul-Ost (Museumsbahn, Lößnitzgrundbahn - we rode the steam train on a previous visit), Dresden-Neustadt, Dresden-Mitte, Dresden Hbf.
Tram #3, then #4. Painless check in to Steigenberger Hotel de Saxe, Neumarkt 9, 01067 Dresden. Then #4 tram across the Elbe river, getting out of "tourist town" for dinnner at Nordsee, Haupt Strasse, counter service, no tip required, grilled salmon, veg, rosemary potatoes, peach iced tea, 0.25l of wine €30.05.
Wine Festival, Haupt Strasse, Kitzer Reisling €4.50 plus €1.00 deposit on the glass. Three piece band playing US oldies "Bad Moon Rising", "Take it Easy", "Twist and Shout" etc.
Dresden: Alfresco Frühstück at Edelweiss Alpen Restaurant, An der Frauenkirche 7. A hokey Swiss restaurant: scrambled egg €5.90, Bircher Muesli €4.90, two large coffee, total €19.60, including tip €25.00.
Sitting on ramparts (terrassenurfer) of Festung Dresden, watching trams (strassenbahn), trains, passenger boats (with steam whistle), Augustusbrücke, Carolabrücke bridges. Second visit to Verkehrsmuseum, Dresden, Augustusstraße 1, (transport museum). Exhibits:
Trabant P601, Wartburg 355: "these two vehicles were the mainstays of the DDR car industry".
AWZ P70 - 1956 (made 1955-1959, first duroplast car).
EMW 340/2 (Eisenach Motoren Werke) - 1952.
IFA F 9 TYP 309/1 - 1955, made in the Audi plant, Zwickau.
Möve modell 15 - 1956 (1954-1959 VEB Möve-Werk Mulhausen. Plants also in Sangerhausen, Chemnitz.)
IWL SR 56 Wiesel - 1958 (Ludwigsfelde IWL = VEB Industriewerke Ludwigsfelde)
Simson SL 1 S - 1971
Simson Mofa 1, ceased 1972
IWL TR 150 Troll 1 scooter - 1963
Simson KR51 Schwalbe - 1967. The first of the "bird" series which ran from 1964-1986. Waiting times up to 5 years.
Mifa Universal model 510 - 1984 bicycle
Mifa model 903/1 -1981 folding bicycle
Diament bicyles (taken over by Trek 2002), Multicar commercial vehicles - surviving companies.
Goliath pioneer 1931 three-wheeler
Phanomen Bob 30 - 1939 motorcycle
Hanomag 2/10 PS - 1925 (central headlight)
BMW i3 eDrive - range 160 km
Special exhibition: MZ Trophys & Trophäen, MZ-Motorräder aus Sachsen 1952-2005
MZ = Motorradfabrik Zschopau (near Chemnitz)
MZ-VEB Motorradwerk Zschopau MZRT 125/3 Pitty and Wiesel Mopeds
RT125/4 - 1963-1965 Export only
1945 - factory shipped to USSR
1991 - bankrupt
1992 - MUZ founded, four-stoke Rotax motor
2008 - closed. Attempts to revive MZ 2009-2013 failed.
MZ trophy model T, DKW connection "das kleine wunder". Annette to the Albertinum, Tzchirnerplatz 2, €10.00.
Main floor "Sculpture Hall" from Rodin to present, Second Floor "New Masters Gallery" art from Romanticism to the present. Free audio guide in choice of languages. Local artists - Ernst Ludwig Kirchner, Hermann Glockner, and Otto Dix.
We went for a walk to the Kreuzkirche Lutheran church, Kreuz Strasse. Woolworth, Prager Strasse 2, for 3 x drinks, souvenir bag €3.88 - "Woolworth Seit 1879" with Michael Jackson muzak. To Rewe, Prager Stasse 1, (grocery), "Vegan und Vegetarisch " section. Cheap.

Pic by RLT
Prager Strasse: Old Time Marxists x 2 waving Soviet flag and distributing "Junge Welte" Communist newspaper etc.
Hotel: watching Friday F1 from Silverstone, Tour de France.
Supper at Hans Im Glück, Alt Markt 24, €29.80 including tip, Veggie Burgers, lemonade. Konsom express, Neumarkt 7, icecream x 2, €5.00, then Terrassenurfer. A punk rock band is playing on the far bank of the river but all we can see is the back of the stage.
Walk via Kreutzstrasse to breakfast at Schwerdtners, Prager Strasse, Backer Seit 1937, €15.00 incl tip, good value.
Dresden Hbf depart 09:08 on time for Prague, carriage 263 České dráhy 1st class, národní dopravce.
Bad Schandau dep 09:38, following the valley of the Elbe. Train uncrowded through scenic gorge. Tip: sit on left Dresden to Praha.

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